UKC

22m. The centre of the crag has a vertical, almost featureless, grey wall to the left of a low large roof. This climb is a bold and steep route through the middle of obvious converging cracks, running up a shallow corner near the centre of the grey wall. Start on the seaward side of a rock pool directly beneath the converging cracks. Step across the pool and climb easily on to a large sloping platform at the foot of the shallow corner. Climb the corner to beneath a small block overhang with a distinctive thin quartz lip. A rest is possible on a narrow ledge on the left wall. Gain the lip precariously (crux) and continue over into a large alcove. Layback the obvious corner-crack on poor rock to reach an easy angled ramp, which leads up and left to the top.

Lines have been contrived up the abseil slab (difficult) and either side of the notch (VS up the groove to the left; HVS on the loose wall to the right)

B.Tosh, J.Hall 15/Jul/2003.

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Route of Interest
The Magician

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Tarbet Sea Cliffs)

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