250m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
III, 275m. The easiest and longest (300m) of the routes here, this is a popular line. With the slightly longer approach and virtually all of the Arête des Cosmiques at the end of it, you'll need to be fast! The route can also be accessed by abseiling in from just before the first abseil on the Arête des Cosmiques and using the fixed belays to descend before then climbing back out.
Approach - Abseil from the bridge which links the two summits of the Aiguille du Midi, into the Cunningham Couloir below. There is a recently installed pair of bolts at the southern end of the bridge. The first abseil is 55m and the bolted anchor you're aiming for is hard to spot until you're almost on it. It is in a corner, directly in the fall line of the abseil off the bridge, 5m above the base of the Cunningham Couloir. If you can't find it there are other anchors around, albeit of varying quality. After this there are 2 x 50m abseils on the right bank of the couloir, a further one from a rock island in the middle of the couloir and a final 30m abseil on the left bank brings you to the foot of routes 1 and 2. For the Burnier-Vogler, the abseil anchors continue on the left bank or it is possible to downclimb to the foot of the route.
1) 3, 60m. Climb the excellent, thin icy gully via some 70 degree ice and the odd rock step thrown in and to reach a single bolt belay on the right.
2) 4, 50m. Finish the gully by climbing a short 80 degree step then fire up 50 degree snow and ice to a peg and bolt belay on the left.
3) 2, 60m. Step back right and climb 60m of 55 degree snow/ice to a bolt belay on the right.
4) 3, 50m. Carry on up steepening ice to a final bolt belay on a rock buttress in the middle of the gully, directly below the steep crux.
5) 4, 55m. Head straight up to reach the imposing corner and enter this via some steep moves (crux). Follow it for 10m to reach the Arête des Cosmiques. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Easily accessible winter route on the North Face of the Aiguille du Midi. 4 Ice pitches up to 80 degrees and a finishing pitch going around M4 depending on the amount of ice.

Francois Burnier, Romain Vogler 11/May/1980

Ticklists: Chamonix Winter Ideas.

Hidden 20/Feb/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Feb/17 AltLd O/S
Matt Groom 28/Oct/16 -
sj87 07/Jun/15 2nd

crux pitch - lowered from cosmiques ridge

Hidden 21/Dec/14 2nd
Hidden 26/Oct/14 Lead
James W ?/Aug/14 2nd
with Mark Thomas
Hidden 28/Jul/14 AltLd
Claire Molloy ?/Jul/14 2nd
with Mark Thomas
alpinestar_no1 14/May/14 AltLd O/S
with Jakob Fisker
chapmand 10/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
with Matt Robinson
Hidden 04/Apr/14 -
ndraper1 14/Mar/14 Lead O/S

climbed as a 3 in conjunction with whole cosmiques arete. Took the left hand gully exit for final pitch. Incredible journey. Sadly missed the last bin by 10 mins but got coffee, soup and beer with the sunset over Chamonix so no hardship. Highly recommended.

joe_lancs 12/Jan/14 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jan/14 AltLd
Hidden 05/Jul/13 Lead
Hidden 05/Jul/13 2nd O/S
AdamCB ?/Jun/13 2nd

With Andy Owen

Hidden 15/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Apr/13 Lead
carl_123 03/Apr/13 2nd O/S
Luke Brooks ?/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
with Konrad Doyle
LJC 28/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Not quite the suggested pitches, but it worked. Second rap off some seriously dodgy frozen tat after I failed to spot the bolted belay. Lead the final mixed pitch which was an amazing snowy romp up the rocks.

with Harry
HarryB 28/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
with Luca
Hidden 27/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
thebigeasy ?/Feb/12 -
Hidden 23/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Oct/11 AltLd
Kris ?/Oct/11 AltLd
Hidden 25/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
rmc 03/Mar/11 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Dave Almond 04/Oct/10 AltLd
with Mark Thomas
Hidden ??/2010 -
basvdploeg ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2009 -
mike.moss ?/Apr/08 Lead dnf

Led crux ice pitch, but my partner began to suffer from severe altitude symptoms, so I opted for an immediate descent, using the Cunningham Couloir to return to the Plan de l'Aiguille. When I say immediate, in total we were on the mountain for about 30 hours…

with Ben Williams
David Horwood 22/Mar/06 -
Hidden ?/Mar/06 Lead
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