250m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
III, 275m. The easiest and longest (300m) of the routes here, this is a popular line. With the slightly longer approach and virtually all of the Arête des Cosmiques at the end of it, you'll need to be fast! The route can also be accessed by abseiling in from just before the first abseil on the Arête des Cosmiques and using the fixed belays to descend before then climbing back out.
Approach - Abseil from the bridge which links the two summits of the Aiguille du Midi, into the Cunningham Couloir below. There is a recently installed pair of bolts at the southern end of the bridge. The first abseil is 55m and the bolted anchor you're aiming for is hard to spot until you're almost on it. It is in a corner, directly in the fall line of the abseil off the bridge, 5m above the base of the Cunningham Couloir. If you can't find it there are other anchors around, albeit of varying quality. After this there are 2 x 50m abseils on the right bank of the couloir, a further one from a rock island in the middle of the couloir and a final 30m abseil on the left bank brings you to the foot of routes 1 and 2. For the Burnier-Vogler, the abseil anchors continue on the left bank or it is possible to downclimb to the foot of the route.
1) 3, 60m. Climb the excellent, thin icy gully via some 70 degree ice and the odd rock step thrown in and to reach a single bolt belay on the right.
2) 4, 50m. Finish the gully by climbing a short 80 degree step then fire up 50 degree snow and ice to a peg and bolt belay on the left.
3) 2, 60m. Step back right and climb 60m of 55 degree snow/ice to a bolt belay on the right.
4) 3, 50m. Carry on up steepening ice to a final bolt belay on a rock buttress in the middle of the gully, directly below the steep crux.
5) 4, 55m. Head straight up to reach the imposing corner and enter this via some steep moves (crux). Follow it for 10m to reach the Arête des Cosmiques. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Easily accessible winter route on the North Face of the Aiguille du Midi. 4 Ice pitches up to 80 degrees and a finishing pitch going around M4 depending on the amount of ice.

Francois Burnier, Romain Vogler 11/May/1980

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 20 Feb, 2017 AltLd O/S
mBob8 20 Feb, 2017 AltLd O/S Lead lower crux pitch of 4, lean conditions. Left hand exit in hope of making last lift... didn't.
Lead lower crux pitch of 4, lean conditions. Left hand exit in hope of making last lift... didn't.
Matt Groom 28 Oct, 2016 -
sj87 7 Jun, 2015 2nd crux pitch - lowered from cosmiques ridge
crux pitch - lowered from cosmiques ridge
Hidden 21 Dec, 2014 2nd
Hidden 26 Oct, 2014 Lead
James W ?Aug, 2014 2nd
with Mark Thomas
with Mark Thomas
Hidden 28 Jul, 2014 AltLd
Claire Molloy ?Jul, 2014 2nd
with Mark Thomas
with Mark Thomas
alpinestar_no1 14 May, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Jakob Fisker
with Jakob Fisker
chapmand 10 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Matt Robinson
with Matt Robinson
Hidden 4 Apr, 2014 -
ndraper1 14 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S climbed as a 3 in conjunction with whole cosmiques arete. Took the left hand gully exit for final pitch. Incredible journey. Sadly missed the last bin by 10 mins but got coffee, soup and beer with the sunset over Chamonix so no hardship. Highly recommended.
climbed as a 3 in conjunction with whole cosmiques arete. Took the left hand gully exit for final pitch. Incredible journey. Sadly missed the last bin by 10 mins but got coffee, soup and beer with the sunset over Chamonix so no hardship. Highly recommended.
joe_lancs 12 Jan, 2014 AltLd
Hidden ?Jan, 2014 AltLd
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides 5 Jul, 2013 Lead
with AshwinT
with AshwinT
Hidden 5 Jul, 2013 2nd O/S
Hidden ?Jun, 2013 2nd
Hidden 15 Apr, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 3 Apr, 2013 Lead
carl_123 3 Apr, 2013 2nd O/S
Luke Brooks ?Oct, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Konrad Doyle
with Konrad Doyle
LucaC 28 Mar, 2012 AltLd O/S Not quite the suggested pitches, but it worked. Second rap off some seriously dodgy frozen tat after I failed to spot the bolted belay. Lead the final mixed pitch which was an amazing snowy romp up the rocks.
with HarryB
Not quite the suggested pitches, but it worked. Second rap off some seriously dodgy frozen tat after I failed to spot the bolted belay. Lead the final mixed pitch which was an amazing snowy romp up the rocks.
with HarryB
HarryB 28 Mar, 2012 AltLd O/S
with LucaC
with LucaC
Rob84 27 Mar, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Rob Adie
with Rob Adie
thebigeasy ?Feb, 2012 -
Hidden 23 Oct, 2011 AltLd O/S
S Lynch 23 Oct, 2011 AltLd
with Smith42
with Smith42
Kris ?Oct, 2011 AltLd
Hidden 25 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
rmc 3 Mar, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Dave Almond 4 Oct, 2010 AltLd
with Mark Thomas
with Mark Thomas
Hidden ??, 2010 -
basvdploeg ??, 2010 -
Hidden ??, 2009 -
mike.moss ?Apr, 2008 Lead dnf Led crux ice pitch, but my partner began to suffer from severe altitude symptoms, so I opted for an immediate descent, using the Cunningham Couloir to return to the Plan de l'Aiguille. When I say immediate, in total we were on the mountain for about 30 hours…
with Ben Williams
Led crux ice pitch, but my partner began to suffer from severe altitude symptoms, so I opted for an immediate descent, using the Cunningham Couloir to return to the Plan de l'Aiguille. When I say immediate, in total we were on the mountain for about 30 hours…
with Ben Williams
David Horwood 22 Mar, 2006 -
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ?Mar, 2006 Lead
with David Horwood
with David Horwood
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