Rockfax Description
III, 275m. The easiest and longest (300m) of the routes here, this is a popular line. With the slightly longer approach and virtually all of the Arête des Cosmiques at the end of it, you'll need to be fast! The route can also be accessed by abseiling in from just before the first abseil on the Arête des Cosmiques and using the fixed belays to descend before then climbing back out.
1) 3, 60m. Climb the excellent, thin icy gully via some 70 degree ice and the odd rock step thrown in and to reach a single bolt belay on the right.
2) 4, 50m. Finish the gully by climbing a short 80 degree step then fire up 50 degree snow and ice to a peg and bolt belay on the left.
3) 2, 60m. Step back right and climb 60m of 55 degree snow/ice to a bolt belay on the right.
4) 3, 50m. Carry on up steepening ice to a final bolt belay on a rock buttress in the middle of the gully, directly below the steep crux.
5) 4, 55m. Head straight up to reach the imposing corner and enter this via some steep moves (crux). Follow it for 10m to reach the Arête des Cosmiques. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Easily accessible winter route on the North Face of the Aiguille du Midi. 4 Ice pitches up to 80 degrees and a finishing pitch going around M4 depending on the amount of ice.

Francois Burnier, Romain Vogler 11/May/1980.

Ticklists

Winter Alps 2023

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