330m, 9 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Start on a small ledge with a piton a few metres from the ground on a leaning pillar. There is a deep yellow chimney on the right, and the route is just right of, and 30m below, two rock windows.
1) IV-, 35m. Climb a ramp left then take a right-trending corner to a good belay left of a flake.
2) IV, 30m. Climb up and left to reach a small ledge, then climb a crack on the right before moving back left to belay on a ledge.
3) III+, 30m. Climb the slabs above with superb climbing for the grade then continue in a corner-crack. Move left around a small roof to the belay.
4) IV, 25m. Follow a crack above the belay (well-pegged) then move left onto slabs to avoid a bulge. Move back into the crack to reach a ledge and a good stance.
5) IV, 40m. Move up and right to avoid a yellow overhang above the belay then climb back left to re-enter the crack. Follow this past a small ledge on the right and continue to a stance on larger vegetated ledge. Here variants Alta and Bassa meet.
6) III+, 30m. Climb direct up the slabs above to a thread belay to the left and below the yellow face. This pitch is shared with Bassa.
7) I, 20m. Traverse easily rightwards under the yellow face.
8) V+, 20m. Climb direct then follow an enjoyable corner.
9) III+, 25m. Climb the continuation chimney past various chockstones and belay below a corner on the right.
10) V+, 35m. Climb the corner-crack rightwards with more difficult moves early on to a small ledge on the left just before the corner's end.
11) III, 25m. Don't continue up the corner; instead follow a crack diagonally right to top out by a prominent boulder surrounded by barbed wire. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Via del Buco until big ledge then continue up often wet chimneys to finish

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
isandyharper 5 Sep, 2018 AltLd dog Finished the climb, but ran out of time, so took the last few pitches of- Via del Buco Bassa Variant. Rockfax descriptions were confusing & we lost of lot of time route finding.
Finished the climb, but ran out of time, so took the last few pitches of- Via del Buco Bassa Variant. Rockfax descriptions were confusing & we lost of lot of time route finding.
Pixie-Andy 5 Sep, 2018 AltLd dnf Did most of the route as best we could be sure which route we were on! But as sunset loomed and we decided to switch routes to the left onto an easier route, we maybe got a bit lost on harder stuff (wrong gully), to far over to the left, but eventually escaped climbing an unknown traverse and the last 2 pitches by head torch. descended by a lovely Via Ferratta. When on route the climbing was not so hard 4b mainly and 4c occasionally, but on easier stuff the protection can be 10 meters apart. Some loose stuff about especially if you get lost, so keep tucked in at the belays. Route finding with the Rockfax guide book was like Pin a Tail on the Donkey! But we can't blame Rockfax for everything, as we did climb some pitches in the style of Laurel and Hardy! We also had some Type 2 Fun! ...at sunset, just after Harper abseiled back down a pitch (so we could traverse unknown territory to get back on route), when suddenly our ropes turned into spaghetti. How does that happen just when you need to be sorting and climbing at your slickest and quickest?
Did most of the route as best we could be sure which route we were on! But as sunset loomed and we decided to switch routes to the left onto an easier route, we maybe got a bit lost on harder stuff (wrong gully), to far over to the left, but eventually escaped climbing an unknown traverse and the last 2 pitches by head torch. descended by a lovely Via Ferratta. When on route the climbing was not so hard 4b mainly and 4c occasionally, but on easier stuff the protection can be 10 meters apart. Some loose stuff about especially if you get lost, so keep tucked in at the belays. Route finding with the Rockfax guide book was like Pin a Tail on the Donkey! But we can't blame Rockfax for everything, as we did climb some pitches in the style of Laurel and Hardy! We also had some Type 2 Fun! ...at sunset, just after Harper abseiled back down a pitch (so we could traverse unknown territory to get back on route), when suddenly our ropes turned into spaghetti. How does that happen just when you need to be sorting and climbing at your slickest and quickest?
mikecollins 8 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Laura led pitch 6 & 7. Rockfax description of pitch 10 is very confusing and we couldn't find anything that matched the top or description. The only thing we could find was a black waterfall which didn't look promising. With storm pending, bailed onto Via del Buco Bassa Variant pitch 9. Continued to the summit then descended via the tunnel system.
Laura led pitch 6 & 7. Rockfax description of pitch 10 is very confusing and we couldn't find anything that matched the top or description. The only thing we could find was a black waterfall which didn't look promising. With storm pending, bailed onto Via del Buco Bassa Variant pitch 9. Continued to the summit then descended via the tunnel system.
Lauradavies23 8 Aug, 2018 AltLd
benrhyd 3 Aug, 2017 AltLd dnf Got to the top of pitch 4 when the storms started coming in, forcing us to ab off
with Adam Haynes
Got to the top of pitch 4 when the storms started coming in, forcing us to ab off
with Adam Haynes
TimKnight 8 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
Joemanglerocks 8 Jul, 2017 AltLd
Hog Dog 25 Aug, 2016 AltLd dnf Caused us some trouble... We started in the right place but quickly ended up too far right climbing some steep overhangs. Back on track for pitch 4 (belay is a ledge higher than on the 2014 Rockfax topo) and decided we'd bail and finish up the Bassa Variant. Took the wrong gully (the big chossy one - should be the smaller one behind it) and ended up leading a nasty pitch up loose overhanging rubbish to an arete beneath a small tunnel opening - very scary. Rapped off and continued up the gully to the left including a sketchy traverse. All told, a difficult day!
with Andy Howell
Caused us some trouble... We started in the right place but quickly ended up too far right climbing some steep overhangs. Back on track for pitch 4 (belay is a ledge higher than on the 2014 Rockfax topo) and decided we'd bail and finish up the Bassa Variant. Took the wrong gully (the big chossy one - should be the smaller one behind it) and ended up leading a nasty pitch up loose overhanging rubbish to an arete beneath a small tunnel opening - very scary. Rapped off and continued up the gully to the left including a sketchy traverse. All told, a difficult day!
with Andy Howell
PilarMartinez 19 Jul, 2016 AltLd
Julesthe1st 19 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
Mike Roger ??, 2016 AltLd
Kw2015 31 Aug, 2015 2nd
Batt 25 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S Great route. Easy route finding and nice easy stroll off. Top two pitches were a bit out of keeping with the rest if it and the top hard pitch was wet so Dave got that one!! Slightly dodgy weather but we stayed dry!
with Dave C, Hoyes
Great route. Easy route finding and nice easy stroll off. Top two pitches were a bit out of keeping with the rest if it and the top hard pitch was wet so Dave got that one!! Slightly dodgy weather but we stayed dry!
with Dave C, Hoyes
Hoyes 25 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Batt
with Batt
chrisallan 18 Aug, 2014 AltLd
cameron_hall 18 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S Difficult to describe what we actually climbed, intending to do Alta variant. Went too far left along the ramp, ending up somewhere between Bassa and Alta variants for P1 (making it a traditionally protected and reasonably steep VS crack, my lead), went too far right of the Alta variant on P2 (Chris' lead), then continued up to join the Alta variant on a third pitch (roughly corresponding to P4 of Alta, my lead), climbed pitches 5 (Chris), 6 (me) of Alta, then found that the final pitches of Alta were wet (as they often are, apparently), went off-route up a gully for a pitch and a half looking for the final pitches of Bassa (Chris' lead, then my lead, followed by down climbing and abseiling) and then finished with pitches 6,7,8 9 of Bassa (done in two pitches - my lead for 6,7; Chris' for 8,9). The best pitch was probably P1, where we were off route (!) but much of the rest was also very pleasant.
Difficult to describe what we actually climbed, intending to do Alta variant. Went too far left along the ramp, ending up somewhere between Bassa and Alta variants for P1 (making it a traditionally protected and reasonably steep VS crack, my lead), went too far right of the Alta variant on P2 (Chris' lead), then continued up to join the Alta variant on a third pitch (roughly corresponding to P4 of Alta, my lead), climbed pitches 5 (Chris), 6 (me) of Alta, then found that the final pitches of Alta were wet (as they often are, apparently), went off-route up a gully for a pitch and a half looking for the final pitches of Bassa (Chris' lead, then my lead, followed by down climbing and abseiling) and then finished with pitches 6,7,8 9 of Bassa (done in two pitches - my lead for 6,7; Chris' for 8,9). The best pitch was probably P1, where we were off route (!) but much of the rest was also very pleasant.
Hidden 19 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
Alasdair Fulton 19 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S Actually started up magic plaque.
with Elsier
Actually started up magic plaque.
with Elsier
Hidden ??, 2011 AltLd O/S
GraMc 2 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S very hungover!! complete with body jam
very hungover!! complete with body jam
Hidden 2 Jul, 2010 AltLd
Marq 30 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S AMAMAMAM direct finish and 4hrs on the route. UIAA V+
AMAMAMAM direct finish and 4hrs on the route. UIAA V+
Martin Bennett 25 Jul, 2006 -
with John Stockton, AlanB
with John Stockton, AlanB
Hidden ?Sep, 2005 -
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Voting
High VI-
Mid VI-
Low VI-
High V+
Mid V+
Low V+
High V
Mid V
Low V
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 3
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Not Set