38m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Not much more direct than the original and at the upper end of the grade due to the battle that is the first pitch!
1) 5a, 14m. Climb the wide crack that splits the right-hand side of the huge face awkwardly to a good stance on the regular route.
2) 4c, 14m. The flared groove, then the flake on the left, lead to a ledge. Originally the wall on the right was climbed, deviously.
3) 4a, 10m. Finish up the widening and easing crack just left. © Rockfax

Ticklists

The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Hen Cloud

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UserDateNotes
chris j 24 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: First pitch - traditional climbing at its best!
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βeta: First pitch - traditional climbing at its best!
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
mrphilipoldham 22 Jul AltLd O/S Lead first and last pitch, had done the upper two before though. Bottom section makes you think at 5a!
with sassan
Lead first and last pitch, had done the upper two before though. Bottom section makes you think at 5a!
with sassan
sassan 22 Jul AltLd β Weekend whipper on 2nd, wtf.
Weekend whipper on 2nd, wtf.
Jazzybly 21 Jul AltLd Led 1st and 3rd pitch and found 2nd ok
Led 1st and 3rd pitch and found 2nd ok
crossleysm 30 Jun AltLd O/S
with Jonothan Campbell
with Jonothan Campbell
JCampbell92 30 Jun AltLd dog
George Frisby 14 Apr Lead rpt Led P1+p2
with Berny
Led P1+p2
with Berny
rowland penty 13 Apr Lead O/S
Hidden 12 Apr AltLd O/S
Lenny 30 Mar Lead O/S Linked the three pitches. Pitch one really good, though a but stiff for the grade.
with Matt
Linked the three pitches. Pitch one really good, though a but stiff for the grade.
with Matt
mattlyons 30 Mar 2nd O/S
with Lenny
with Lenny
themattyshep 29 Mar AltLd O/S With Stu taking P1 and P3 and me on P2
With Stu taking P1 and P3 and me on P2
donalmurray 27 Mar AltLd O/S Led top two pitches as one
with benrhyd
Led top two pitches as one
with benrhyd
gavster 24 Feb Lead
with Josh
with Josh
Owen Johnson 17 Nov, 2018 AltLd O/S Led p2 and p3 together. Which was fine if you don't use much gear/take out gear behind you as you go. We did the harder alternate first pitch which had a very hard move, I would say 5b. Climbed up the slab to the right at the first offwidth because I love slabs and hate offwidths. Second offwidth section of the second pitch is the best part of the route.
Led p2 and p3 together. Which was fine if you don't use much gear/take out gear behind you as you go. We did the harder alternate first pitch which had a very hard move, I would say 5b. Climbed up the slab to the right at the first offwidth because I love slabs and hate offwidths. Second offwidth section of the second pitch is the best part of the route.
George Frisby 17 Nov, 2018 Lead dog Found the crux of the first pitch to be really hard for 5a. Fist jam and left foot rockover, big move for VS. fell once in that move then got it the second go.
Found the crux of the first pitch to be really hard for 5a. Fist jam and left foot rockover, big move for VS. fell once in that move then got it the second go.
Heather Osborne 10 Oct, 2018 2nd Tried to lead and failed shortly before things ease, hoping it was just an off day...
with Alec
Tried to lead and failed shortly before things ease, hoping it was just an off day...
with Alec
Mats1902 15 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
with Drue
with Drue
elliotphillips43 1 Sep, 2018 Lead G/U no dab hand at jamming. i had a bit of a mare just on the first few moves, gaining the crack proper. fell off and started again. Managed the crux on P1 first time after some pause and thought. Felt very hard for VS. Led all 3 pitches
with wiggy
no dab hand at jamming. i had a bit of a mare just on the first few moves, gaining the crack proper. fell off and started again. Managed the crux on P1 first time after some pause and thought. Felt very hard for VS. Led all 3 pitches
with wiggy
Emily-Cooper 16 Jun, 2018 2nd dog Not worth the thuggish brutality and inner turmoil it puts you through. 0 stars. Least enjoyable climb I've done to date. Not a good route if you're 5 foot tall. Took some pretty shitty falls. Cried when I topped out.
Not worth the thuggish brutality and inner turmoil it puts you through. 0 stars. Least enjoyable climb I've done to date. Not a good route if you're 5 foot tall. Took some pretty shitty falls. Cried when I topped out.
imogen.fish 16 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Not worth the hassle... Tell your mate it was really good and they should do it for a laugh...
Not worth the hassle... Tell your mate it was really good and they should do it for a laugh...
Hidden 12 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
john.gaffney 12 Jun, 2018 2nd dog It felt very hard.
It felt very hard.
giles 28 May, 2018 AltLd
with Si
with Si
JayAyBee 1 May, 2018 AltLd O/S Enjoyed P1
Enjoyed P1
Dave Mayes 1 May, 2018 AltLd
Hidden 29 Jul, 2017 AltLd G/U
Quaidy Quaid 22 Jul, 2017 Lead dnf Snap
with RayG
Snap
with RayG
RayG 22 Jul, 2017 AltLd dnf
mountainremedy 12 Jul, 2017 Lead dnf Awkward thrutchy battle! Had to abandon after much grunting and fighting with the crack! Hands too small to get a good enough jam 😩
Awkward thrutchy battle! Had to abandon after much grunting and fighting with the crack! Hands too small to get a good enough jam 😩
poeter210 2 Jul, 2017 AltLd dog
with druss
with druss
Hidden 2 Jul, 2017 AltLd dog
Stotty_88 14 Jun, 2017 AltLd Pitch 2 and 3
with gavster
Pitch 2 and 3
with gavster
gavster 14 Jun, 2017 AltLd
with Ad
with Ad
ig248 10 Sep, 2016 2nd
with Kirill
with Kirill
Ilia Nadyrbayev 10 Sep, 2016 2nd
with Kirill
with Kirill
Kirill 10 Sep, 2016 Lead dog crux of P1 is unreasonably hard - used aid
crux of P1 is unreasonably hard - used aid
Chris Murray 15 Aug, 2016 AltLd
with DMC
with DMC
DMC 15 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S Led the first pitch.
Led the first pitch.
Ky 7 Aug, 2016 AltLd
Andrew Abraham 7 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Ky
with Ky
Hidden 6 Aug, 2016 2nd
Flavio 26 Jul, 2016 Solo O/S
jrccrosby 20 Mar, 2016 Lead O/S Lead all pitches, first one was tough but gritted it out, second forces me left onto the face which was a more straight forward face climb. last pitch is obviously a cake walk, I did mean to go right onto the 4b but I fluffed it and got stuck on the 4a.
with Harry
Lead all pitches, first one was tough but gritted it out, second forces me left onto the face which was a more straight forward face climb. last pitch is obviously a cake walk, I did mean to go right onto the 4b but I fluffed it and got stuck on the 4a.
with Harry
Jonny Holmes 12 Feb, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Vicky Taylor
with Vicky Taylor
Monkey_Alan 3 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S
Viorel Chicu 3 Oct, 2015 AltLd
mark4344 27 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
with Michel
with Michel
Hidden 27 Sep, 2015 2nd dog
tonevert 26 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S straight forward
with derryn, yvette
straight forward
with derryn, yvette
Hidden 13 Sep, 2015 Lead
Brannock 29 Aug, 2015 Lead
tgeh 15 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
with dan geh
with dan geh
Dan Geh 15 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S Lead p1 and p2 in one. Not too hard for vs.
with tgeh
Lead p1 and p2 in one. Not too hard for vs.
with tgeh
Hidden 7 Jul, 2015 Lead dnf
Julesthe1st 27 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Robin
with Robin
Hidden ?Jun, 2015 -
Coel Hellier ??, 2015 Lead
Davidchatterton 11 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S
with heyhoot
with heyhoot
Hidden 11 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S
jwhereat 9 Aug, 2014 AltLd
bendevonport 29 Jun, 2014 2nd dog Hell is a perpetual ascent of P1. The drizzle made the rest a pig to finish, I set off to lead the last pitch but backed off, Jon finished.
Hell is a perpetual ascent of P1. The drizzle made the rest a pig to finish, I set off to lead the last pitch but backed off, Jon finished.
Hidden 29 Jun, 2014 Lead
Hidden ??, 2014 -
Fragmod 14 Sep, 2013 2nd
Hidden 2 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S
John Bish 2 Sep, 2013 AltLd lead 1st and 3rd pitch
lead 1st and 3rd pitch
HAJ Francis 6 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Lead first and second pitch
Lead first and second pitch
galpinos 3 Jul, 2013 AltLd
with Sam
with Sam
hellboundblr 30 Jun, 2013 AltLd Ardian P1 and half of P2 (I led P2 with Bikerman, years earlier). I took easiest line to top from P2.
with Adrian Jones
Ardian P1 and half of P2 (I led P2 with Bikerman, years earlier). I took easiest line to top from P2.
with Adrian Jones
adrianj 30 Jun, 2013 AltLd Lead pitch 1 Bry lead pitch 2 to top Bitch of a thing
Lead pitch 1 Bry lead pitch 2 to top Bitch of a thing
chrisbussell 11 Jun, 2013 AltLd
with Tim O'Neill
with Tim O'Neill
johnself1603 28 Apr, 2013 AltLd O/S
Jim Slater 27 Apr, 2013 AltLd O/S
Graeme Hammond 27 Apr, 2013 AltLd O/S Led Pitches 1 & 2 as one, Pitch 1 was desperate and seemed a complete sandbag! Jim led pitch last pitch as per BMC guide (rockfax wrongly show it finishing as per Final Crack)
Led Pitches 1 & 2 as one, Pitch 1 was desperate and seemed a complete sandbag! Jim led pitch last pitch as per BMC guide (rockfax wrongly show it finishing as per Final Crack)
debsb 6 Apr, 2013 2nd
Hidden 7 Oct, 2012 AltLd
ross brinson 1 Oct, 2012 AltLd
with Dan Webb
with Dan Webb
Jimbo C 13 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S I took P2. A lovely outing and a unique grit crag giving such long routes. P1 pretty tough and maybe peeping into HVS territory.
with Chris, Pete
I took P2. A lovely outing and a unique grit crag giving such long routes. P1 pretty tough and maybe peeping into HVS territory.
with Chris, Pete
Hidden 29 Jul, 2012 Lead dnf
darlolad 23 Jul, 2012 AltLd
timmyhobby 5 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S p1 and p3
p1 and p3
Russell Blackaller 5 Jul, 2012 2nd
Hidden ??, 2012 -
cragfox 15 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S
Bry 2 Oct, 2011 AltLd O/S
Mike_Hayes 2 Oct, 2011 AltLd
with Bry
with Bry
marcoleptic 24 Sep, 2011 AltLd dog Horrible, Horrible, Horrible! Led P1 & fell off. Had done Delstree & Bachelors left hand already & found this harder. Worth it for the L/H crack finish tho.
with max
Horrible, Horrible, Horrible! Led P1 & fell off. Had done Delstree & Bachelors left hand already & found this harder. Worth it for the L/H crack finish tho.
with max
Hidden 18 Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S
Gazleah 18 Sep, 2011 AltLd rpt
with serge
with serge
Hidden 26 Jul, 2011 Solo O/S
D J Williams 14 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
with adnam
with adnam
Chris Sansum 3 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
with Nathaelle Bouttes
with Nathaelle Bouttes
keith leonard ??, 2011 -
SR1970 ?Nov, 2010 Lead O/S
donkster 24 Oct, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 24 Oct, 2010 AltLd dog
Hidden 9 Oct, 2010 2nd O/S
JRae 1 Aug, 2010 AltLd A good fight!
A good fight!
Oliver Houston 1 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S Lead 1st and 3rd, finished direct up an easy crack (unmarked in WG), fun and in keeping with the line
Lead 1st and 3rd, finished direct up an easy crack (unmarked in WG), fun and in keeping with the line
Ken Taylor ??, 2010 -
Hidden ??, 2010 Lead
GF ??, 2010 -
ben comery 17 Dec, 2009 2nd dnf Struggled to leave the ground, did central climb instead
Struggled to leave the ground, did central climb instead
Hidden 17 Dec, 2009 Lead dnf
Nicholas Livesey 12 Sep, 2009 2nd dnf I did the first pitch but we were moving slowly as a three so with the light fading I fell on my sword and lowered of...must go back to complete the route
with Paul Palir, Rob Pontefract
I did the first pitch but we were moving slowly as a three so with the light fading I fell on my sword and lowered of...must go back to complete the route
with Paul Palir, Rob Pontefract
Hidden 2 Aug, 2009 Lead RP
Hidden 2 Aug, 2009 2nd O/S
Mr Wild 19 Jul, 2009 Solo
argylectu 5 Jul, 2009 Lead
tontopink 7 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
Panda 30 May, 2009 -
Oceanic 30 May, 2009 -
Darragh ?May, 2009 -
with Mark
with Mark
Hidden 5 Apr, 2009 Lead
Gazleah 15 Mar, 2009 Lead O/S
with dprctr
with dprctr
Netgear7 ?Jul, 2008 2nd O/S
sarah87 10 May, 2008 2nd O/S
with Dan Masterman
with Dan Masterman
sarah87 10 May, 2008 2nd O/S
with Dan Masterman
with Dan Masterman
snakebite 11 Jan, 2008 Lead O/S
with Sarah Secker
with Sarah Secker
daveagriff ??, 2008 2nd
Hidden ??, 2008 -
Hidden 12 Nov, 2007 AltLd O/S
Somerset swede basher 11 Nov, 2007 AltLd O/S
with John Sargeant
with John Sargeant
Hidden 6 Oct, 2007 AltLd
trevor macalonan 27 Aug, 2007 2nd dog
Hidden 26 Aug, 2007 Lead rpt
richgac 28 Jul, 2007 Lead O/S
with Lukasz
with Lukasz
jasonpm 9 Jun, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Dave, Dave.
with Dave, Dave.
Hidden 26 Apr, 2007 AltLd O/S
Matt Shepherd 10 Jan, 2007 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10 Jan, 2007 AltLd
Hidden 5 Aug, 2006 Lead dnf
Hidden ?Jul, 2006 Lead O/S
stevieo10 ?Jul, 2006 2nd
with gritrashgraham
with gritrashgraham
Jim Walton ??, 2006 Lead O/S
with Bex
with Bex
masa-alpin 15 Oct, 2005 Lead O/S Great jamming crux.
with Adam W
Great jamming crux.
with Adam W
Lawrence Eccles 3 Sep, 2005 2nd O/S
with A. Crook
with A. Crook
rob1 21 May, 2005 2nd
Andy Clarke 21 May, 2005 Lead dog Found P1 properly brutal, but exhilarating. Led Ps 1&3.
with rob1
Found P1 properly brutal, but exhilarating. Led Ps 1&3.
with rob1
Hidden ?May, 2005 Lead O/S
jimshrimp 31 Jul, 2004 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21 Jun, 2004 AltLd
ASchwirtz 16 Aug, 2003 Lead O/S shona lead middle pitch
with Shona D'arcy
shona lead middle pitch
with Shona D'arcy
Hidden 29 May, 2003 AltLd
shaun walby 27 Apr, 2002 2nd O/S
with Phil West
with Phil West
fellgazelle ??, 2002 AltLd O/S
with Ian Waterhouse
with Ian Waterhouse
nickcanute ??, 2000 Lead O/S
Iain Thow 29 Aug, 1996 AltLd Led pitches 2 & 3, 4b, 4a.
with Dave Walch
Led pitches 2 & 3, 4b, 4a.
with Dave Walch
Roget 5 Apr, 1992 Lead O/S Self belayed first pitch
Self belayed first pitch
Raggar 28 Jul, 1990 2nd
with Steve B
with Steve B
babymoac 2 Feb, 1989 Lead
with kevin B
with kevin B
Nigel Bond 6 Feb, 1982 Lead
with Charlie Leverton
with Charlie Leverton
Hidden ??, 1980 Lead O/S
Rick51 ?May, 1978 Lead
RichardMc 30 Apr, 1977 Lead O/S
with Dave Langmead
with Dave Langmead
tapley 2 Nov, 1969 Lead O/S
with Derek Montford
with Derek Montford
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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 46
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 40
Votes cast 35
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Ground Up
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Not Set