Rockfax Description
Start up the wall just right of Produced by Fred Quimby and then break up right via some difficult moves and finish at the lower-off shared with Don's Long Gone. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Bolted June 2020.
Ticklists
Hedbury Sport Routes , Swanage Sport Routes
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Gary K Duke | 12 Sep, 2023 |
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βeta: a great route but super scary, unless you don't mind climbing a sustained 2m crux above a bolt. the fall is nice and into space thankfully | βeta? | |
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βeta: a great route but super scary, unless you don't mind climbing a sustained 2m crux above a bolt. the fall is nice and into space thankfully |
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| Pottsy84 | 9 Jan, 2022 |
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βeta: Reading earlier comments, I do remember a random 4 in the middle of the crag from my first visit here when just starting out 18mths or so ago - assume it was this (I didn't look for it or try it). It is bolted now and 6a+ felt about right (as graded in new Rockfax / UKC) but the sequence for that grade isn't necessarily obvious. Crux is above gear - pre-equipping 3rd bolt with a 60cm alpine gives a psychological assist. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Reading earlier comments, I do remember a random 4 in the middle of the crag from my first visit here when just starting out 18mths or so ago - assume it was this (I didn't look for it or try it). It is bolted now and 6a+ felt about right (as graded in new Rockfax / UKC) but the sequence for that grade isn't necessarily obvious. Crux is above gear - pre-equipping 3rd bolt with a 60cm alpine gives a psychological assist. |
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| AidanBoyce1 | 18 Aug, 2021 |
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βeta: This is not a 4 as in guide book ...6A+ or higher more accurate. Tough climb . | βeta? | |
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βeta: This is not a 4 as in guide book ...6A+ or higher more accurate. Tough climb . |
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| Keiran.A | 13 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: in my guidebook as a 4! | βeta? | |
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βeta: in my guidebook as a 4! |
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| JimOakleyAdventures | 28 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Good luck on this one !! Bolt 2 - 3 proper hard on small finger Jam 6a+ more like it | ||
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βeta: Good luck on this one !! Bolt 2 - 3 proper hard on small finger Jam 6a+ more like it |
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| RobertB | 7 Oct, 2019 |
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βeta: This route isn't really bolted. You can awkwardly use the first two bolts from the route to the left but after that you have a long unprotected section you will deck from if you fall. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: This route isn't really bolted. You can awkwardly use the first two bolts from the route to the left but after that you have a long unprotected section you will deck from if you fall. |
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Guidebooks for Hedbury
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Route of Interest
Reptile Smile
Grade: 6a+ ***
(Blacknor North)