10m.

Rockfax Description
10m. The crack widens gradually from finger locks to good hand-jams to plain awkward. So where is the hedgehog then? © Rockfax

Ticklists

The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, The Pearson-Tanner Roaches Expedition, Hen Cloud

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UserDateNotes
MeMeMe 6 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Nice if you like jams, a little horrid otherwise. Finish didn't seem particularly perplexing.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice if you like jams, a little horrid otherwise. Finish didn't seem particularly perplexing.
johncoxmysteriously 25 Feb, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: It wasn't the spiky rock which gave it the name at all. No more clues - take a cocktail of mind-altering drugs and go and look at the climb for yourself.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It wasn't the spiky rock which gave it the name at all. No more clues - take a cocktail of mind-altering drugs and go and look at the climb for yourself.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
dczach 4 Aug Lead lower crack was soaked through and sopping wet, aided the first part until the wide
with Liam
lower crack was soaked through and sopping wet, aided the first part until the wide
with Liam
crossleysm 30 Jun 2nd O/S
with Jonothan Campbell
with Jonothan Campbell
JCampbell92 30 Jun Lead O/S
with Simon Crossley
with Simon Crossley
Rob Gillespie 24 Jun Lead rpt
tonanf 2 Jun Lead
Rob_Morris1996 18 Apr 2nd O/S Also tough!
Also tough!
mrphilipoldham 18 Apr Lead O/S Very enjoyable! The top section that looks minging from the ground is actually pretty good.
Very enjoyable! The top section that looks minging from the ground is actually pretty good.
Hidden 12 Apr 2nd O/S
neilmackie 29 Mar Lead O/S
with sassan
with sassan
sassan 29 Mar 2nd O/S
WillRhodes 27 Feb Lead O/S Marginally less thrutchy than it would first suggest.
Marginally less thrutchy than it would first suggest.
Hidden 26 Feb Lead O/S
grady 17 Nov, 2018 2nd O/S
jrccrosby 17 Nov, 2018 Lead O/S
with grady
with grady
George Frisby 17 Nov, 2018 Lead O/S Was worried about the top but lots of good hidden holds you can't see from the ground.
Was worried about the top but lots of good hidden holds you can't see from the ground.
Ky 18 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S
with Andi Turner
with Andi Turner
john lynch 12 Sep, 2018 2nd
with ed luke
with ed luke
Lolly107 17 Aug, 2018 2nd
whoisjosh 17 Aug, 2018 2nd dog
with Ellie, Hugh
with Ellie, Hugh
Edale 15 Aug, 2018 Lead
with Yvonne
with Yvonne
RWB1986 28 Jul, 2018 Lead dnf
aceagles 28 Jul, 2018 Lead dnf
Struck Lucky 19 May, 2018 Lead
with Fez
with Fez
Phil_Brock 13 May, 2018 Lead O/S Awkward, especially at the point where it goes from hands to offwidth for a few moves before hidden holds in the crack make things easy again. Had a bit of a faff getting right foot into the crack (couldn't do left because of the wall) as rope / gear was in the way. Once I'd stood up on that it got much easier.
Awkward, especially at the point where it goes from hands to offwidth for a few moves before hidden holds in the crack make things easy again. Had a bit of a faff getting right foot into the crack (couldn't do left because of the wall) as rope / gear was in the way. Once I'd stood up on that it got much easier.
Aleksandra J 13 May, 2018 2nd Enjoyed seconding it to practice jamming technique
Enjoyed seconding it to practice jamming technique
timreynolds 6 May, 2018 Lead O/S
Chris Ebbutt 6 May, 2018 2nd
Graeme Hammond 1 Nov, 2017 Lead O/S
with rich_hw
with rich_hw
gavster 24 Sep, 2017 Lead
with Jack, rob
with Jack, rob
Rob Royle 24 Sep, 2017 2nd
with gavster
with gavster
Hidden 24 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
arasham 24 Jul, 2017 2nd
poeter210 2 Jul, 2017 2nd O/S
with druss
with druss
Hidden 2 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
matthewbpt 17 Jun, 2017 2nd RP Fell off the start many times, I suck at jamming!
with Phil, Hanna
Fell off the start many times, I suck at jamming!
with Phil, Hanna
prcleary 9 May, 2017 Lead
with Tony Keatman, Tim Miller
with Tony Keatman, Tim Miller
wil_perry 8 May, 2017 Lead
Hidden 7 May, 2017 2nd O/S
DanOsb 8 Apr, 2017 2nd
w.pettet-smith 8 Apr, 2017 Lead
with DanOsb
with DanOsb
Melonfly ?Dec, 2016 Lead
kez1 20 Oct, 2016 Lead G/U No guidebook, climbed this thinking it was hen cloud eliminate, hardest vs iv ever done, fell off twice, massive grit rash and rope burns on my leg. Horrendous
No guidebook, climbed this thinking it was hen cloud eliminate, hardest vs iv ever done, fell off twice, massive grit rash and rope burns on my leg. Horrendous
Whitmoreaa 20 Oct, 2016 2nd
with kez1
with kez1
jimbonfire 8 Oct, 2016 Lead
with TT
with TT
manwithacam 2 Oct, 2016 2nd Great fun. Last route of a great day's climbing
with Alan
Great fun. Last route of a great day's climbing
with Alan
Lenny 24 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
with James. D
with James. D
RichyBOYY 24 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
PeteWilson 24 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S one of those "fun" routes. get stuck in!
with RichyBOYY, josh
one of those "fun" routes. get stuck in!
with RichyBOYY, josh
craig.england1 6 Aug, 2016 2nd
with Mic A
with Mic A
Flavio 26 Jul, 2016 Solo O/S
James Smith 5 Jul, 2016 2nd
with melon
with melon
Andrew Abraham 2 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S
with Harry Ratclif
with Harry Ratclif
Stroppy 28 May, 2016 2nd O/S I thought the moves on this were unpleasant
I thought the moves on this were unpleasant
Sam Husband 28 May, 2016 Lead O/S
with Stroppy
with Stroppy
Stanners 11 Oct, 2015 Lead O/S missed the bloody jug rail in the crack initially, no wonder it felt hard! Good bants this route.
with Giles
missed the bloody jug rail in the crack initially, no wonder it felt hard! Good bants this route.
with Giles
thrutch 3 Oct, 2015 2nd O/S
with Sven
with Sven
SR1970 3 Oct, 2015 Lead
dannyboy83 5 Sep, 2015 Solo O/S
hthom 11 Jul, 2015 Lead
with Xavier
with Xavier
RobScarisbrick 11 Jul, 2015 Lead dog
DMC 12 May, 2015 2nd RP
with Paul Deane, Chris Murray
with Paul Deane, Chris Murray
Chris Murray 12 May, 2015 Lead Great climb. Warnings of no gear above 3m are incorrect. It's well protected with a normal rack although a friend 4(+) or two adds a bit more security.
Great climb. Warnings of no gear above 3m are incorrect. It's well protected with a normal rack although a friend 4(+) or two adds a bit more security.
andyclimber 22 Apr, 2015 2nd O/S
Hidden 8 Apr, 2015 2nd O/S
Coel Hellier 3 Oct, 2014 Lead
Nigel Bond 3 Oct, 2014 2nd
with Coel
with Coel
brian watson 28 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 8 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 7 Sep, 2014 2nd O/S
Hidden 7 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
keith Lonsdale 27 Jul, 2014 2nd
andybirtwistle 27 Jul, 2014 Lead $b in my older Staffs guide actually approaching 5a a lot harder than Batchelors!
$b in my older Staffs guide actually approaching 5a a lot harder than Batchelors!
Alex Winter 21 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S 25 on Staffordshire nose. Climbed in mistake for Slimline. Tits.
with Nick
25 on Staffordshire nose. Climbed in mistake for Slimline. Tits.
with Nick
Nick Russell 21 Jul, 2014 2nd 25/31. Climbed in mistake for Slimline. Bollocks. Thought it was implausibly easy for E1.
25/31. Climbed in mistake for Slimline. Bollocks. Thought it was implausibly easy for E1.
snowfluke 13 Jun, 2014 2nd dnf
ADConway 13 Jun, 2014 Lead dog
gavster 1 Jun, 2014 Lead
with ruth
with ruth
Ruthie 1 Jun, 2014 2nd dog Definitely coming back to this one after some first jamming practise! :)
with gavster
Definitely coming back to this one after some first jamming practise! :)
with gavster
gregoritos 21 May, 2014 Solo O/S This is not an easy climb to solo! Very good though.
This is not an easy climb to solo! Very good though.
cem 5 May, 2014 Lead O/S
CrispsSmiths 5 May, 2014 2nd
with cem
with cem
sc4660 4 May, 2014 2nd dog Tony fell on lead. Nut was wedged. Needed holding on rope to fight it out. Final climb of day. Hard work, needed a tight rope.
Tony fell on lead. Nut was wedged. Needed holding on rope to fight it out. Final climb of day. Hard work, needed a tight rope.
Hidden 1 Sep, 2013 Lead
Hidden 1 Sep, 2013 2nd
mark s 31 Aug, 2013 Lead
with andi t
with andi t
dan_blair87 3 Jul, 2013 2nd dog
dan_blair87 3 Jul, 2013 2nd RP
dan_blair87 3 Jul, 2013 2nd RP
bobpilgrem 21 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
with Dennis
with Dennis
sputnik 26 May, 2013 Lead O/S
Calum Wadsworth 5 May, 2013 Lead O/S
Chris Sansum 6 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S
with Phil Gibson
with Phil Gibson
madasten 6 Apr, 2013 2nd Bottled the lead about half-way up as I couldn't see any gear after the half-way point (it does exist, just very well hidden from below). Seconded Gaz up it instead and of course wished I hadn't been such a wuss as it's a great route!
with Nicola, gazfellows
Bottled the lead about half-way up as I couldn't see any gear after the half-way point (it does exist, just very well hidden from below). Seconded Gaz up it instead and of course wished I hadn't been such a wuss as it's a great route!
with Nicola, gazfellows
gazfellows 6 Apr, 2013 AltLd This is a vs with attitude. Should be 5a ??? Awsome crack/squirmy climbing tho !!!
This is a vs with attitude. Should be 5a ??? Awsome crack/squirmy climbing tho !!!
Hannes B 4 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S
with debsb
with debsb
debsb 4 Apr, 2013 2nd
Rob Gillespie ??, 2013 Lead O/S Loved it!
Loved it!
Nigel Bond 9 Oct, 2012 Lead
with Dave Dewhurst
with Dave Dewhurst
Hidden 9 Oct, 2012 -
Batt 15 Sep, 2012 2nd O/S Nice jamming at the bottom if a bit off balance. Horrible at the top!
Nice jamming at the bottom if a bit off balance. Horrible at the top!
spragglerocks 15 Sep, 2012 Lead dog Epic and evil. Run out at the top.
with Batt
Epic and evil. Run out at the top.
with Batt
Peakpdr 12 Aug, 2012 - Rained half way up, the top was wet, green and slippy
Rained half way up, the top was wet, green and slippy
Hidden 22 Jul, 2012 2nd
Daymo 22 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S Quality route. Gear up to about 3m, so a long way to the top before without any palcement
Quality route. Gear up to about 3m, so a long way to the top before without any palcement
Dan Geh 15 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S
with tgeh
with tgeh
tgeh 15 Jul, 2012 2nd O/S
with dan geh
with dan geh
Hidden 15 Jul, 2012 2nd
gingerwolf 9 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
neilfish 31 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
Jesse Dufton 30 Jul, 2011 Lead
with mol
with mol
mol 30 Jul, 2011 2nd jamming and thuggery..
jamming and thuggery..
Hidden 30 Jul, 2011 Lead
Hidden 24 Jul, 2011 Solo O/S
deklan 2 May, 2011 Lead
with chris, tristan
with chris, tristan
Peakology 23 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S Starts too thin, ends up too wide. No gear at the top. Done at night with Dave onsight.
Starts too thin, ends up too wide. No gear at the top. Done at night with Dave onsight.
keith leonard ??, 2011 -
donkster 24 Oct, 2010 2nd rpt
with DaveNW
with DaveNW
Hidden 24 Oct, 2010 Lead dnf
Andrew Sloan 26 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S
hotfeet 4 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S
with chancer
with chancer
Hidden 30 Aug, 2010 Lead
al99 30 Aug, 2010 2nd O/S
rod757 ?Jul, 2010 Lead
thrutch 25 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
with helen
with helen
andrea83 22 Jun, 2010 2nd O/S Wouldn't like to have lead as it was another hand jammers heaven. Managed to avoid hand jamming apart from on first move or two.
with Buxton MC
Wouldn't like to have lead as it was another hand jammers heaven. Managed to avoid hand jamming apart from on first move or two.
with Buxton MC
Rob Davies 12 Jun, 2010 2nd
with Phil A
with Phil A
miro 16 May, 2010 Lead O/S good climb.did enjoy it...
good climb.did enjoy it...
Hidden ??, 2010 Lead
Ken Taylor ??, 2010 -
Mr. K 27 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S Was grateful to be carrying a Camalot #4 and a pink Tricam; made the route feel well protected. Found the crux to be the slippery fistjam section at mid-height, upper offwith was pretty straighforward. Great fun.
with Fidget
Was grateful to be carrying a Camalot #4 and a pink Tricam; made the route feel well protected. Found the crux to be the slippery fistjam section at mid-height, upper offwith was pretty straighforward. Great fun.
with Fidget
tmawer 12 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S
with kevin, John
with kevin, John
Mr Wild 25 Jul, 2009 Lead O/S
with krank
with krank
dan gibson 11 Apr, 2009 Lead rpt
Hidden 5 Apr, 2009 Lead
Hidden ??, 2009 -
GrantB 21 Sep, 2008 Lead
with Phil Bailey
with Phil Bailey
Smudge03 19 Sep, 2008 2nd O/S
with Carl Schnabel
with Carl Schnabel
paul birch 31 Aug, 2008 -
Hidden 26 Apr, 2008 2nd O/S
rob wmc 26 Apr, 2008 Lead O/S
with Alan & Jim
with Alan & Jim
Jim Slater 26 Apr, 2008 2nd O/S
with rob wmc
with rob wmc
Nick Rundall ?Apr, 2008 Lead O/S
with John Cook
with John Cook
daveagriff ??, 2008 2nd
shoulders 9 Sep, 2007 Lead
rachelwheatcroft 2 Sep, 2007 2nd
with Marvino and Jamie
with Marvino and Jamie
Toby Dunn 29 Aug, 2007 2nd
with Tom Randall
with Tom Randall
MaccMark 18 Aug, 2007 2nd
with Philip Jarvis
with Philip Jarvis
dan gibson 11 Aug, 2007 Lead rpt
with sam read
with sam read
PanzerHanzler 19 Jul, 2007 2nd dog Foot slipped from the wet funky crack near the bottom!
with Tom Ford
Foot slipped from the wet funky crack near the bottom!
with Tom Ford
DavidEvans 31 May, 2007 2nd
tlr 29 Apr, 2007 Lead
with Richard
with Richard
Steve Banham ??, 2007 Lead
Hidden 8 Aug, 2006 Lead O/S
Caralynh 8 Aug, 2006 2nd much easier than it looks. lovely route
much easier than it looks. lovely route
feilx 30 Jul, 2006 Solo
Hopevalleypaul 29 Jul, 2006 Lead dnf
with Gareth W
with Gareth W
bigphil 15 Jul, 2006 2nd
with Toby & Calum
with Toby & Calum
dan gibson 24 Jun, 2006 Lead rpt
with karing
with karing
AJ007 24 Jun, 2006 2nd
with Brian
with Brian
doughboy_swiftandsure 18 Jun, 2006 Lead O/S Never Again. Ever. Very scary, and couldn't find any pro after half way. Loads of muscle strain, cramp, and a grazed nose from wiggling up the crack! used a nut for a first bit of pro (6 foot up), and then two cams up to the half way point.
with Christos Haranzis (HOPS)
Never Again. Ever. Very scary, and couldn't find any pro after half way. Loads of muscle strain, cramp, and a grazed nose from wiggling up the crack! used a nut for a first bit of pro (6 foot up), and then two cams up to the half way point.
with Christos Haranzis (HOPS)
dan gibson 2 Jun, 2006 Solo rpt
Hidden 1 Jun, 2006 2nd O/S
Jon Read 25 May, 2006 Solo β
with Andi Turner & Mark Sharrat
with Andi Turner & Mark Sharrat
crossdressingrodney 7 Jul, 2005 Lead O/S
victim of mathematics 7 Jul, 2005 2nd O/S
Hidden 10 May, 2005 Lead O/S
Bob M 30 Apr, 2005 Lead
with Chris Bristow
with Chris Bristow
eduardo ??, 2005 Lead O/S
donkster ?Nov, 2004 2nd O/S
with trigg
with trigg
Smelly Fox ?Nov, 2004 Lead O/S
with Gus
with Gus
MeMeMe ?Sep, 2004 Lead O/S
Hopevalleypaul 31 Jul, 2004 2nd
with Mike C
with Mike C
Hidden ?Oct, 2003 Lead O/S
Budge 8 Jul, 2003 2nd O/S
with Mike Oates
with Mike Oates
mark s ??, 2003 Solo
Gus ??, 2003 Lead
Hidden 12 Jul, 2002 Lead O/S
MontyH 11 May, 2002 Lead
with Andy Lawrance
with Andy Lawrance
Hidden ?May, 2002 2nd
MontyH 30 Jul, 2000 Lead O/S
with Andy Lawrance
with Andy Lawrance
nickcanute ??, 2000 Lead O/S
Nettle 18 Apr, 1998 Lead O/S ** - 4b - 11m - Johnny Cutcliffe This was the first time I've needed to employ a double fist jam!
with Johnny 'The Dog' Cutcliffe
** - 4b - 11m - Johnny Cutcliffe This was the first time I've needed to employ a double fist jam!
with Johnny 'The Dog' Cutcliffe
Hidden ??, 1997 Lead O/S
brady 1 Sep, 1996 2nd a real thrutch
with John Cameron
a real thrutch
with John Cameron
Iain Thow 29 Aug, 1996 2nd
with Dave Walch
with Dave Walch
Dave Mountford ??, 1996 Lead rough date
with Damon Heath
rough date
with Damon Heath
Rog Wilko ?Sep, 1995 Lead
with Debbie Wilkinson
with Debbie Wilkinson
The Pulsing Motorik of Neu! 17 Sep, 1994 2nd
with John Buckley
with John Buckley
stokienomad 16 Apr, 1994 Lead
Roget 15 Jul, 1992 Solo rpt
Dave Musgrove Jnr 21 Jun, 1992 Lead
Dave Musgrove 21 Jun, 1992 2nd
Hidden 19 Apr, 1992 Solo rpt
Neil McA 14 Sep, 1991 Lead O/S
with Dave Hesleden, Martin Wilson
with Dave Hesleden, Martin Wilson
Hidden 31 Jul, 1991 Lead
SimonN 28 Apr, 1991 Lead
Roget 2 Sep, 1990 Lead O/S
with colin
with colin
Hidden ??, 1986 -
Nigel Coe 4 Apr, 1981 -
with Steve Portnoi
with Steve Portnoi
Mark Kemball ??, 1980 2nd
RichardMc 30 Apr, 1977 Lead O/S
with Ed Heath
with Ed Heath
Dave Musgrove 23 May, 1976 -
mikej 17 Jun, 1970 Solo
with Stewart Grant
with Stewart Grant
tapley 12 Oct, 1969 Lead O/S
with Derek Montford
with Derek Montford
tutbury ?Aug, 1969 -
with Mick Quinn
with Mick Quinn
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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 49
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 40
Votes cast 43
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set