18m. Down and right of the smooth "whaleback" slab is an arete forming the left edge of a cracked slab. Climb the arete (peg), step right onto the slab at a small overhang (peg) and step up and left to a ledge back on the arete. Climb the groove above to a tree.

M S Davies, B Mullan 10/Jan/2010

Ticklists

CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS)

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 21 Sep Lead
neilmclean 23 Jul Lead
with Marc Kennedy
with Marc Kennedy
AngelaC 30 May Lead
with Muny, Tony Raphael
with Muny, Tony Raphael
markfromstoke 21 May 2nd
with luke43
with luke43
luke43 21 May Lead
Maria772 21 May TR
with luke43
with luke43
Hidden 11 May Lead
AngelaC 27 Apr Lead Superb route - really enjoyed it!! Pleased to find the hidden gear before e crux - definitely 2 stars!
Superb route - really enjoyed it!! Pleased to find the hidden gear before e crux - definitely 2 stars!
Hidden 27 Oct, 2018 2nd β
myrddinmuse 27 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S Well, this was a novel day out. Went out on a limb to find Staple Edge Quarry, and boy did it disappoint. Had the impression that there was a lot of great work put into this place to make it a brilliant crag a long time ago. Much respect to the crag fairies back in the day but sadly nature has reclaimed most of this. The Horned one looked brilliant, but got rained/snowed away. Not sure if/when I'll be back. Ice age was pretty good as well, to be fair. Tricky and deceivingly steep climbing above micros and some solid pegs.
Well, this was a novel day out. Went out on a limb to find Staple Edge Quarry, and boy did it disappoint. Had the impression that there was a lot of great work put into this place to make it a brilliant crag a long time ago. Much respect to the crag fairies back in the day but sadly nature has reclaimed most of this. The Horned one looked brilliant, but got rained/snowed away. Not sure if/when I'll be back. Ice age was pretty good as well, to be fair. Tricky and deceivingly steep climbing above micros and some solid pegs.
paulfordski 27 Aug, 2017 2nd
with JLW
with JLW
Hidden 27 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
stevethomas 29 Apr, 2017 Lead
with Heather
with Heather
Will mcc 12 Mar, 2016 2nd
AngelaC 12 Mar, 2016 TR
RichardMcN 12 Mar, 2016 TR
with AngelaC
with AngelaC
Ian Stirrups ?Jul, 2015 2nd
with Sue
with Sue
Hidden 21 May, 2015 2nd
Snot 21 May, 2015 Lead O/S Probably the best VS in the shire.
with Bobb
Probably the best VS in the shire.
with Bobb
Hidden 17 Aug, 2014 2nd β
Hidden 2 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
StuartP 21 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
Easty14 5 May, 2014 Lead
Ross B 4 May, 2014 Lead RP 2nded Last year
with Leigh
2nded Last year
with Leigh
Dave Thompson 9 Oct, 2013 Lead O/S
with Audry Morrison
with Audry Morrison
leigh 5 Oct, 2013 Lead rpt Wet and mossy at bottom
with Ross
Wet and mossy at bottom
with Ross
Cheese Monkey 29 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S Not quite sure where the run out crux was didnt find it too bad... Nice little route
with Mark L
Not quite sure where the run out crux was didnt find it too bad... Nice little route
with Mark L
The Ivanator 25 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S Boldish, but straightforward climbing. Led on Lee's gear (basically the 2 pegs and a cam after it was all over ...added a sneaky no.2 just before crux step left).
with Big Lee
Boldish, but straightforward climbing. Led on Lee's gear (basically the 2 pegs and a cam after it was all over ...added a sneaky no.2 just before crux step left).
with Big Lee
Big Lee 25 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S Very limited gear but the climbing was easy for the grade.
Very limited gear but the climbing was easy for the grade.
leigh 20 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S Really nice climb.
with James
Really nice climb.
with James
tew 17 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
Paul_southgate68 16 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
with will russell
with will russell
AndyMcCoy 16 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
with Iain Porter
with Iain Porter
riddle 14 Jul, 2013 2nd O/S
with plilley
with plilley
plilley 14 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
with riddle
with riddle
Luxulyan 27 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S
with Dan S
with Dan S
Psychlane 15 Apr, 2013 Lead A little greasy and now with fewer holds after a huge chunk of rock came off in Ploverick's hand.
with Plov
A little greasy and now with fewer holds after a huge chunk of rock came off in Ploverick's hand.
with Plov
Hidden 13 Oct, 2012 Lead O/S
debbie roberts 12 Sep, 2012 2nd
Marti999 12 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
Roget 1 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
with jim
with jim
Greg M 1 Jun, 2012 2nd
with Terry, Fred Richard
with Terry, Fred Richard
Hidden 24 May, 2012 Lead
Muttly 29 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S This felt more serious than a VS. I know the guidebook says only just and the comments on hear back that up. Good holds but the gear is terrible (or I am) and it's not clean, you can't trust your feet unless you are prepared to clean it first.
with JOhn Wilson
This felt more serious than a VS. I know the guidebook says only just and the comments on hear back that up. Good holds but the gear is terrible (or I am) and it's not clean, you can't trust your feet unless you are prepared to clean it first.
with JOhn Wilson
kabalski 13 Nov, 2011 TR O/S
with Ken Long, Adlarddo, petebod
with Ken Long, Adlarddo, petebod
Adlarddo 13 Nov, 2011 2nd dog Enjoyed it. Want to try it again at some point but a long but comparitivley easy climb
with Ken Long, petebod, kabalski
Enjoyed it. Want to try it again at some point but a long but comparitivley easy climb
with Ken Long, petebod, kabalski
Hidden 13 Nov, 2011 Lead O/S
Mark Salter 27 Sep, 2011 2nd
with Chris Shorrock
with Chris Shorrock
kelliroberts3 22 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
peaches69 22 May, 2011 2nd O/S
with adam
with adam
jack1996 15 May, 2011 2nd O/S
Hidden 15 May, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden ?May, 2011 Lead O/S
nvalentine760 30 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
Dan63 22 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
with Colin
with Colin
stvredmond 22 Apr, 2011 2nd
with Johno, Dan63
with Johno, Dan63
simeclimb68 9 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
Phil Layton 9 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 12 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S
aged_ape 3 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
with JC
with JC
Jem Cowen 3 Aug, 2010 -
with Tim O
with Tim O
James Moyle 3 May, 2010 Lead Nice
Nice
Huntlyfiddler 8 Apr, 2010 2nd
bpmclimb 8 Apr, 2010 Lead rpt
maresia 6 Apr, 2010 2nd O/S
bpmclimb 10 Jan, 2010 Lead β Second ascent
Second ascent
Mark Davies PK ??, 2010 Lead β FA
FA
alan moore ??, 2010 - Nice, but short and only about Severe.
Nice, but short and only about Severe.
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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 21
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 21
Votes cast 18
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Dogged
Redpoint
Not Set