120m.

Rockfax Description
The easiest route on the towers. Despite the low grade, the rock is solid and the climbing varied and enjoyable.
Start from the first ledge before the hidden gully in front of the tower. Drop right into the gully then follow a large ledge right under Torre Stabeler for 60m to a ramp trending right on the far right of the south face.
1) III, 30m. Climb the ramp easily right then continue more steeply to a stance just left of the gully between Torres Stabeler and Winkler.
2) III, 30m. Climb the gully, on its right side for 8m, then traverse right onto Torre Winkler. Climb a subsequent ramp then continue direct to a stance on a ledge (Steger Direct and Winkler Crack go right here).
3) III-, 25m. Follow the ledge left, descending slightly, then ascend back up the gully between the towers and cross the gully left back onto Torre Stabeler.
4) IV-, 30m. Climb the corner formed by a leaning pillar, then continue direct for 5m from its top to belay on a wide ledge.
5) III, 25m. Move left and climb a short corner, then continue left behind a flake to a chimney. Follow this to another ledge.
6) IV-, 25m. Move easily left then climb a slab to reach a grey crack. Climb this to yet another wide ledge.
7) IV-, 30m. Traverse left for a couple of metres then climb a prominent corner for 5m. Exit left over easier ground to a saddle, then climb left up a short wall to the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
South East Ridge, Stabeler Tower. Standard route on the Stabeler Tower - route is between the Fehrmann and the Winkler

G. Stabeler, H. Helversen 16/Jul/1892

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Alan James - UKC and UKH 7 Oct Show βeta
βeta: Information below about driving to the hut is incorrect. It is illegal to do this.
βeta?
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βeta: Information below about driving to the hut is incorrect. It is illegal to do this.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 4 Sep Lead O/S
Hidden 4 Sep 2nd
tpegw1 27 Jul -
KellieBakesFudge 5 Jul 2nd
Andy Waterhouse 5 Jul Lead O/S Big, high and fantastic!! The Rockfax book is not very accurate. You can drive to the Rifugio and you don’t need to take a taxi/shuttle! Took us 3 hours accent from the chair lift in para to get to the base of the climb. It’s a steep accent and the track is very uneven and a scramble. 2x60m Rope’s would be ideal here, but you can do it with a singly 60m but will just mean more abseils Decent when you get to the top, again rockfax is pretty crap at explaining. We abseiling down the way we came (10m), there is an anchor in the gap between the two towers. Take a 35m abseil to the base and there is an anchor point there. Traverse left by 5m to another anchor point. Then abseil down the left as your looking down to another anchor point. Wa making the ledge and you will get to another anchor point and the chockstone. We kept each other on belay to get across but it’s easy to get to it . We did a 60 m abseil from there but there is an anchor pout half way if you only use short rope. There are another set of anchor chains at the base leg 60m abseils it was not a 60m abseil tho. Then we abseiled again down the clear gulley and down to the bottom. Takes you just round before the start of the climb.
Big, high and fantastic!! The Rockfax book is not very accurate. You can drive to the Rifugio and you don’t need to take a taxi/shuttle! Took us 3 hours accent from the chair lift in para to get to the base of the climb. It’s a steep accent and the track is very uneven and a scramble. 2x60m Rope’s would be ideal here, but you can do it with a singly 60m but will just mean more abseils Decent when you get to the top, again rockfax is pretty crap at explaining. We abseiling down the way we came (10m), there is an anchor in the gap between the two towers. Take a 35m abseil to the base and there is an anchor point there. Traverse left by 5m to another anchor point. Then abseil down the left as your looking down to another anchor point. Wa making the ledge and you will get to another anchor point and the chockstone. We kept each other on belay to get across but it’s easy to get to it . We did a 60 m abseil from there but there is an anchor pout half way if you only use short rope. There are another set of anchor chains at the base leg 60m abseils it was not a 60m abseil tho. Then we abseiled again down the clear gulley and down to the bottom. Takes you just round before the start of the climb.
Hidden 16 Sep, 2018 Lead
Hidden 16 Sep, 2018 2nd
XAPortela 29 Aug, 2018 2nd
Matthew Edwards 20 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Scrambled up pitch 1, Led P3 and 5, Dudley led P2, 4, 6 and 7 in speed as we thought we were tight getting the bus back down to the car. Abseils were fine, from the chockstone we joined the abs together to speed up time. There is some new anchors on the opposite side of the original ring at the chockstone. A good day, would have been better to have had a bit more time on the summit
with tdudley
Scrambled up pitch 1, Led P3 and 5, Dudley led P2, 4, 6 and 7 in speed as we thought we were tight getting the bus back down to the car. Abseils were fine, from the chockstone we joined the abs together to speed up time. There is some new anchors on the opposite side of the original ring at the chockstone. A good day, would have been better to have had a bit more time on the summit
with tdudley
tdudley 20 Jun, 2018 AltLd
Steve Bartle 19 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Nearly had an epic when one of our ropes got stuck on the ab from the top... fortunately we managed to sort it, only to get a rope stuck again on the final ab
Nearly had an epic when one of our ropes got stuck on the ab from the top... fortunately we managed to sort it, only to get a rope stuck again on the final ab
danieleaston 19 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Description all a bit confusing, especially at the summit, and where was the slab? enjoyed the leaning block wide crack pitch but struggled to climb fast and light. Nightmare descent with many stuck ropes. Led 24&6
Description all a bit confusing, especially at the summit, and where was the slab? enjoyed the leaning block wide crack pitch but struggled to climb fast and light. Nightmare descent with many stuck ropes. Led 24&6
Naomi.P 16 Jul, 2017 Lead Post very cold bivvi so we chose the easiest route to complete our trio of towers and get us to the strudel quickest. I lead most of it and enjoyed chimney pitch coming out of gulley. Had another mini epic on the way down as it seems pretty close with just one 50m rope and rockfax was not exactly clear. I also dropped my belay plate to add to the drama.
Post very cold bivvi so we chose the easiest route to complete our trio of towers and get us to the strudel quickest. I lead most of it and enjoyed chimney pitch coming out of gulley. Had another mini epic on the way down as it seems pretty close with just one 50m rope and rockfax was not exactly clear. I also dropped my belay plate to add to the drama.
leopolian 16 Jul, 2017 AltLd
with Naomi.P
with Naomi.P
GDS 22 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
with rob
with rob
barrington1978 18 Aug, 2016 -
HP9 12 Jun, 2015 Lead very nice and varied route. Fair bit of seepage on pitch 4 (corner). Descent not as straight forward as suggested (our own fault probably)
with Annika Sivlerberg
very nice and varied route. Fair bit of seepage on pitch 4 (corner). Descent not as straight forward as suggested (our own fault probably)
with Annika Sivlerberg
Mike Hood 30 Sep, 2014 AltLd
Alex Munnery ?Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 13 Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S
JonnyDrama 12 Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Ross Kane, Clint
with Ross Kane, Clint
Hotcake ?Sep, 2011 AltLd Good route, fairly straight forward. Alt Leads, Lead the descent.
Good route, fairly straight forward. Alt Leads, Lead the descent.
Tarquin 28 Jun, 2010 Lead
edmund94 8 Jun, 2007 Solo O/S
Rory Shaw ?Sep, 2006 -
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Voting
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High IV-
Mid IV-
Low IV-
High III+
Mid III+
Low III+
High III
Mid III
Low III
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set