100m, 3 pitches.
Route is to the right of the big, white, overhanging wall situated on the right side of the road, approximately 20 minutes walk by the road from Kaiserbrunn. First belay is right to the wall water drain and is reached about 3 meters above the river.
Nature of the climb is precisely described by its name. In first place it's extremely grassy and as soon as you reach the end of the first pitch, the fragility of the wall will be increasing reaching its zenith at the end of 3rd pitch.
The crux 3rd pitch is not properly bolted, therfore it is necessary to avoid it climbing on the left side - couple of bigger camalots might be required.
Generally pulling a toster size limestone blocks is nothing unusual on this route and might be fun for the leader. These fall to the river below and if you are lucky, they hit the wall and fall as a machinegun series straight from Vietnam. (Especially fun to see people reactions on the other side of the river).
Nature of the climb is precisely described by its name. In first place it's extremely grassy and as soon as you reach the end of the first pitch, the fragility of the wall will be increasing reaching its zenith at the end of 3rd pitch.
The crux 3rd pitch is not properly bolted, therfore it is necessary to avoid it climbing on the left side - couple of bigger camalots might be required.
Generally pulling a toster size limestone blocks is nothing unusual on this route and might be fun for the leader. These fall to the river below and if you are lucky, they hit the wall and fall as a machinegun series straight from Vietnam. (Especially fun to see people reactions on the other side of the river).
Hacker, Burkward, Simek 1986.
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Route of Interest
Merlin's Crack
Grade: VII+ ***
(Scheiblingkirchner Wandl)