2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The final classic in the trio and the best. The first pitch is nicely intricate and the second is a stupendous jug-haul in a situation normally reserved for routes around three grades harder.
1) 4b, 20m. Climb the slim groove to its top, then pull slightly right onto the steep wall which leads to a large grassy ledge.
2) 5a, 23m. Pull up leftwards on some good spike holds, arrange gear, then make a long move to more good holds. Hang on here to get some gear in, or move quickly up and right if you are tired, where the gear is easier to place. Climb up and then left on magnificent holds to finish up a corner. The grade of VS 5a is a little deceptive, and those with long arms will probably find it easier than 5a, and those who tire quickly on steep ground may find it harder than VS! © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A steep and imposing 2 pitch route straight from the start. Thrilling and exciting. Not for the faint hearted or new to leading VS grades. Good gear all the way. Belay on blocks at the top and possible abseil off.

2 distinct top pitches.The 4b goes up a short wall and then leftwards up a ramp passing flakes to treach base of a shallow chimney. The alternative 5a top pitch works left behind the large flakes before moving back right to join at base of the chimney.

Ticklists: 100 More Classic British VS Climbs, North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, North wales road to ruins HVS, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist.

Jan.Hrb 27/Oct/17 Lead
with Ales
Hidden 02/Sep/17 AltLd
marky 28/Aug/17 Lead

Amazing top pitch - space walking!

with cath sullivan
Katie S 27/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
Matt Schwarz 27/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

bottom pitch felt stiff at 4b

with katie
Hidden 04/Aug/17 AltLd
clams ?/Aug/17 Lead

Took 4b way. In 1 pitch

Hidden 30/Jul/17 Lead O/S
James Worthington 18/Jul/17 Lead

Climbed in one pitch. Really great second pitch once you go for it!

with Ewan
DanielleMarie 05/Jul/17 2nd O/S
birbeck 02/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/May/17 AltLd O/S
MarkRoe 17/May/17 AltLd O/S

Led second

with Tom Horton
timmsy 08/May/17 AltLd
Hidden ?/May/17 AltLd
Oliver Houston 30/Apr/17 AltLd
with john hayes, Sarah
Hidden 30/Apr/17 AltLd O/S
keitht 19/Apr/17 AltLd
dewiturton 19/Apr/17 AltLd
with keitht
Hidden 15/Apr/17 AltLd O/S
climbingpixie 15/Apr/17 AltLd O/S

Superb! Two very good pitches.

with Claire, James
Georgina Brooke 09/Apr/17 2nd
chrisallan 09/Apr/17 AltLd O/S
theotherpetehill 09/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Apr/17 AltLd O/S
melv 08/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with Fi
Norman_P_W 06/Apr/17 AltLd
with Max S
ClimberPentir ??/2017 -
with Chris Allen
khalidq 23/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

I led P2. It is fantastic. I wasn't sure about the move from the belay. It's not obvious but after that the climbing is spectacular.

with Ian Lau
Hidden 23/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Sep/16 2nd
Hidden 21/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Phil Crudge 17/Sep/16 AltLd
with Olli-C
Olli-C 17/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

Amazing top pitch.

with Dad
Mark Fairhurst 12/Sep/16 AltLd
robgixer 11/Sep/16 Lead O/S
J_Spooner ?/Sep/16 Lead
Matt Harmon 29/Aug/16 Lead O/S

led both pitches. Awesome route, pitch 2 is just incredible with all the holds and just enough gear

Sarah Roscoe 29/Aug/16 2nd

tried to lead p1 but not strong enough so seconded Matt on both pitches

Lotte Stuer 25/Aug/16 AltLd
with Iona
Hidden 14/Aug/16 AltLd rpt
pftom 13/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Graeme Hammond 07/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Sameer
knighty 07/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Lead P1. Great climbing. Nice bit of wind on the second pitch.

samkat 07/Aug/16 AltLd
with Graeme Hammond
jules1990 07/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Chris led P1, and I led P2.

Mario Grabinski 06/Aug/16 AltLd
with Mark Young
Mark Young 06/Aug/16 Lead
with Mario, Helen
wi11 05/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Louisa Reynolds
Ows 31/Jul/16 Lead rpt

Arwain y ddau dringfa. Gwych / Lead both pitches. Superb

HenryMeier 31/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
SR1970 17/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Graham Westbrook 03/Jul/16 AltLd
mattkemp70 ?/Jun/16 AltLd
with Westy
Richard Kinsman 31/May/16 Lead O/S
with Andy Chapman
UnkArl 28/May/16 Lead O/S

Lead both pitches - excellent route! Hardest rope-pull ever after the abseil though...

with Debbie
Hidden 28/May/16 AltLd rpt
Pete_Frost 28/May/16 AltLd O/S

Top wall is excellent - totally protectable with narrow slings, if you don't mind a bit of a run-out. Led this just as the heavens opened, so didn't get to experience it at its finest.

with Phil Creed
dan_blair87 14/May/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14/May/16 AltLd O/S
David Staples 14/May/16 AltLd O/S

Amazing 2nd pitch

Markheighton 23/Apr/16 2nd
DannyH001 23/Apr/16 2nd
Shone 22/Apr/16 -
with Jason Bailey
benlatham07 17/Apr/16 2nd
GermanAlex 17/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Ben generously let me lead both pitches. First is sustained but straightforward, 2nd had me looking up with a good amount of trepidation. All was well though, decent gear before the crux, then go-go-go! Ridiculous terrain on positive holds.

with Ben
Mattilda 25/Mar/16 2nd dog

P1 only. Tired and struggling, but great route. Will go back for P2 when stronger and fitter.

with Giles
joedean 20/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
ianstevens 20/Mar/16 AltLd

Great fun leading the steep and exposed P2 (Joe P1). Outrageous terrain for a VS!

with Ben Closel, Joe Dean
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
Rory Shaw ??/2016 -
Tim Sparrow ??/2016 -
Climbingspike ??/2016 -
Darron ??/2016 -
Hidden 11/Oct/15 Lead
TimKnight 03/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Led both pitches. Worth the stars

with Dave Marshall
konstanci 17/Sep/15 Lead
davenev 08/Sep/15 2nd
with Graham
Hidden 08/Sep/15 Lead O/S
tom jefferies 07/Sep/15 Lead O/S

led second pitch. good climb on great holds!

with oli dowen
Hidden 06/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
NickST 11/Aug/15 Lead

Amazing second pitch

cpoad 07/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Clare F
Hidden 06/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
Wizzy 22/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Absolute class!

cdpuk 19/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Led P1.

RobScarisbrick 19/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Lead P2

with cdpuk
Hidden 12/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
PeteMc 12/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
martrin 10/Jul/15 AltLd
with Sarah Kekus
Hidden 29/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
08nbrierley 29/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

1st pitch

with jamie
Hidden 30/May/15 AltLd O/S
tobydunford 30/May/15 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
Hidden 30/May/15 AltLd O/S
adamre12 25/May/15 AltLd O/S

P2. Fantastic

Qureshi 25/May/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/May/15 Lead O/S
SAF 24/May/15 2nd O/S
with Phil
Hidden 23/May/15 AltLd
Hidden 23/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/May/15 AltLd
Dave Reeve 13/May/15 AltLd O/S
Palmer 16/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Great climb P2 has some great positions quite tough for VS. conveinient Ab station at top too.

with Sarah
Private Flounder 06/Apr/15 AltLd
Chris Manasseh 06/Apr/15 AltLd

Led p 2

Hidden 22/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Mar/15 AltLd O/S
James-m-h ??/2015 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2015 -
joedoherty 03/Dec/14 AltLd O/S
dobby 200 03/Dec/14 AltLd O/S

I lead pitch 1

Hidden 03/Oct/14 2nd dnf
tim_mcd 28/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
with Manchi
inspiration_needed 27/Sep/14 AltLd

Did bottom pitch. Easy enuf. Top pitch was the crux. Matt lead. Was pretty exposed and committing and hard for a vs! Was fun to second.

with Mat Cooper
Hidden 18/Sep/14 Lead
Dale Berry 24/Aug/14 AltLd dnf

I led first pitch clean and onsight. Rain started to set in when I was setting up my belay. Wayne seconded first pitch clean. Abseil descent then followed on another teams ropes (thanks again).

with Wayne S
Wayne S 24/Aug/14 AltLd dnf


with Dale
Hidden 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Louis Hume 07/Aug/14 Lead

Feels like 5a at the time but maybe not after. Exhilarating, I don't have cams so seem to remember placing a tricam under stress on the crux.

with Oli
HB-Pencil 04/Aug/14 2nd β
Ewan Russell 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Mike(Dad)
Hidden 29/Jun/14 -
pauldrew 29/Jun/14 AltLd
with Ali Hutton
julesmckim 29/Jun/14 Lead

Is this the best VS in the UK? Every hold a jug on the top wall and what a position. Felt more like HVS 4c to me. Best route of the day

suds_01 24/Jun/14 AltLd
Dave Almond 22/Jun/14 AltLd

Deserves the stars

Nicole Almond 22/Jun/14 AltLd

Great rock to climb and good for gear placement practice. Definitely 3 stars.

with Dad
foostu4 18/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
rgd1977 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
nodwas ?/Jun/14 2nd
harold walmsley 31/May/14 Lead rpt
with Chris Calow, Mark Hounslea
John Nuttall 31/May/14 Lead
with Sharon
karly54 28/May/14 AltLd O/S
with Peter Goodwin
Hidden 24/May/14 Lead dnf
jmills94 05/May/14 2nd O/S

didnt have the bottle for the top pitch as still didnt trust foot (later turned out to be fractured)loads of jugs and good gear but be prepared to pull hard.

with Neil McCallister
Hidden 04/May/14 AltLd dog
Hidden 02/May/14 AltLd O/S
anthonydouglas 02/May/14 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch.. top pitch was awesome, and pretty easy for 5a

Hidden ?/May/14 Lead
Hidden 20/Apr/14 Lead O/S
mark mcgowan01 18/Apr/14 -
with Anita Grey
mtempest 18/Apr/14 AltLd

Led P1

Steve Waters, Mynydd 18/Apr/14 AltLd

Led P2. Lovely crossover hand move right above the flake.

Hidden 15/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Steve Woollard 15/Apr/14 Lead

Failed on 5a pitch and baled out right

Alex Mason 14/Apr/14 Solo O/S
with Jemma Powell
swmackey 12/Apr/14 AltLd
barni 04/Apr/14 Lead rpt

In a oner

with Ami
Hidden 22/Feb/14 Lead O/S
Sardien 11/Jan/14 AltLd O/S

Lovely climb, stiff for VS and P1 felt more like 4c, but maybe that's because of frozen fingers

with Helena Robinson
IanGilbertJones ??/2014 -
Si ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 Lead
with Jack Graham, Leon Winchester
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden 15/Nov/13 AltLd O/S
Harry Ellis 23/Sep/13 AltLd
Hidden 23/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
gareth scott borthwick 23/Sep/13 AltLd
saraguti 20/Sep/13 Lead O/S

lead first pitch. second is hard for the grade

with rick sewards
Pinguville 18/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with George
George_Surf 18/Sep/13 Lead O/S

It rained a little before we got on but the rock was ok. Steep, delicate committing first pitch and an amazing second pitch. Amazing gear, massive holds, the headwall looks impossible! Loved this route it was great. Abseiled off the top, much easier...

Andrew Lester 05/Sep/13 AltLd
Prof. Outdoors 31/Aug/13 AltLd
with Wendy
Simon Cahill 19/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Deb lead the first pitch, seemed harder than the second pitch! Second pitch is all there on good holds but continuously committing on good but spaced gear. 19/Aug/13 AltLd

not sure we did the 5a variation

noah 03/Aug/13 Lead dnf

Forced to escape by really high winds ripping around the crux on P2 (we could barely stand up at the belay). Need to return...

with Slimmy
Hidden ?/Aug/13 Lead
Paula Ryan ?/Aug/13 AltLd
with Robin Brooke
Hidden 28/Jul/13 -
Hidden 28/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
davebrox 28/Jul/13 AltLd

Andy and Luke Damp rock on arrival, dried quickly. Fantastic climbing, positive but airy at times, great gear, easy descent

jcasey2436 22/Jul/13 AltLd
with Joe birchall
Hidden 09/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/May/13 AltLd O/S
mike lawrence? 26/May/13 AltLd
with Colin
jade Edwards Leaney 21/May/13 AltLd O/S
with con
Hidden 19/May/13 Lead dnf
ClimbMad 19/May/13 2nd dog

My favourite climb so far.

BTphonehome 06/May/13 Lead O/S
with Kasha
kasha_gregson 06/May/13 2nd
with Bram
Abi Chard 06/May/13 AltLd O/S
with Ann B
herman0055 30/Apr/13 AltLd
Kyle87 08/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

1st pitch. Exciting climbing at the grade.

Dan724 08/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Led second pitch. Great route.

ross brinson 06/Apr/13 AltLd

Tony lead the first, I lead the second

with Chris Rees
Fragmod 03/Mar/13 Lead
Alex.M-M. 03/Mar/13 2nd O/S
herman0055 09/Feb/13 Lead
SamP88 02/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

*** great experience

with Tom S
Anna Riley 02/Feb/13 Lead
tim20 ??/2013 -
ashtond6 30/Nov/12 Lead
Hidden 05/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
ads 15/Sep/12 AltLd
Cardi 08/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Led P2

with Tom R
bwestwood 06/Aug/12 AltLd
guy757 21/Jul/12 AltLd
Johnywilks 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Tony Holdsworth 15/Jul/12 AltLd O/S


with Andy Lawrence, Rupert Creed
zukator 12/Jul/12 AltLd

A 5* evening!

with Shaun
ashtond6 10/Jun/12 Lead
fizzychewitt 02/Jun/12 Lead

Don't think the 2nd pitch is 5a. Very steep and exposed though- scary (but in a good way!)

with Andy
Hidden 26/May/12 Lead
jayrenegade 26/May/12 AltLd O/S

Lead P2 in the baking hot sun. Got a bit sweaty. Good route though.

with Prav
Hidden 29/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Mar/12 -
jezb1 19/Mar/12 AltLd

5a version.... p2

Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
lost.arrow 20/Nov/11 -
with Stu Sherwood
Blurgy319 05/Nov/11 AltLd O/S

Led p1

with Ginge Moore, Lee Wales
Hidden 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Sep/11 AltLd
Hidden 25/Sep/11 2nd O/S
Jim Walton 25/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Led the second pitch, goes through some great terrain for a VS

riff156 29/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Paul Williamson
Hidden 09/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
victim of mathematics 09/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Not as overhanging, or as hard as North Wales Rock would have you believe. Stupendously good.

with Simon
Ed Booth 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S
g1m147 24/Jul/11 AltLd
with Mick.
asmith37 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S

from belay went right slightly before going up and left, guessing this must be the 4b variation. amazing climbing, will have to come back to do the 5a variation.

with Michelle Baylis, Bex Leigh
net 26/Jun/11 2nd

Brilliant route, though the bottom pitch was a bit damp and it was very windy on the top pitch.

with George
GPN 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S


with Annette
taw 13/Jun/11 AltLd rpt

Sarah and Dave led, great climb.

with Dave sb, Sarah Hawker
davesb 13/Jun/11 AltLd rpt

Led 2nd pitch - fantastic!

sarah hawker 13/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

I led P1, Dave led P"

willoates 29/May/11 AltLd O/S

AMAZING!!! done it twicw now

with lawrence
EliotStephens 23/May/11 Lead O/S

Really smart route!

ross brinson 22/May/11 2nd
stevechaps1 19/May/11 AltLd
Gerallt Owain 19/May/11 AltLd O/S
Andrew Lester 17/May/11 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1

Simon Caldwell 01/May/11 AltLd dnf

I led pitch 1 and won the prize for greatest number of gear placements per metre. We then both wimped out of pitch 2 and finished up the slab on the right (Original Route). We'll be back...

with Carmen
cmsg 30/Apr/11 -
with Richard Haszko, John Tomlinson
Hidden 29/Apr/11 AltLd rpt
stevepotter 29/Apr/11 AltLd
with Bryan
hellboundblr 29/Apr/11 AltLd

Steve P1, Me P2.

with Steve P
cjohn62 28/Apr/11 2nd
with bob
Ched 12/Apr/11 AltLd
with gali
Hidden 12/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden 27/Mar/11 2nd
cem 27/Mar/11 2nd rpt
with Charles Mason
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
centurion05 ??/2011 Lead O/S
with The Reverend, Bucknole
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden 07/Nov/10 2nd O/S
embob 30/Aug/10 AltLd

Felt neither reachy or powerful as described in the guide, just bloody brilliant! Led the 1st pitch, which was lovely. The second pitch was an absolute gem.

with Alex
Hidden 30/Aug/10 AltLd
Hidden 30/Aug/10 -
clive-greenwood 27/Aug/10 Lead O/S

A great route, V tough for the grade.

with Anna
MikeLeeds 27/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Jessie Rushbrooke 22/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with PShearman
chri55ie 16/Aug/10 AltLd

Led the first pitch, Alan led the 2nd

with Tony Marchant, Alan Gill
Hidden 15/Aug/10 Lead
Hidden 14/Aug/10 2nd
Kirill 14/Aug/10 2nd O/S
cem 14/Aug/10 Lead rpt

Both pitches in one

seb m-c 13/Aug/10 2nd

Started to rain on 2nd pitch = amazing route and full on!

with Martin Callaghan
Richard Gilbert 29/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Jerry Ostrowski
paul ireland 24/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Amazing at the grade.

Hidden 19/Jun/10 2nd
alek 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Krystina Common, Charlie Tomlinson
jossjones 08/Jun/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 31/May/10 2nd rpt
Alexandre Buisse 31/May/10 Lead O/S

Ran both pitches together. What a great climb! Steep and exposed, but on good holds all the way and adequately protected by slings. Felt more serious than Fratricide Wall, more like VS 5a.

with Dave E. Brown
Brown 31/May/10 2nd O/S
with Alexandre Buisse
Hidden 30/May/10 AltLd O/S
matt.woodfield 16/May/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/May/10 AltLd
Adam Booth 09/May/10 Lead O/S

Ab'd into top pitch only. Bloody brilliant!

Hidden 09/May/10 2nd
Hidden 03/May/10 AltLd O/S
brockers 03/May/10 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Great route, stunning positions. Not 4b as in the CC guide, but the Ground Up 5a grade is a bit over generous.

Hidden 03/May/10 AltLd
Hidden 03/May/10 AltLd rpt
willson 03/May/10 AltLd

Top pitch

with Dave, Ali H
mustdobetter ?/May/10 2nd O/S

a very good climb but the grading on this climb is vs 5a not vs 4b. check book.

Ken Applegate 20/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

Great second pitch, well worth the visit!

Stuart_Burbidge 18/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
with Seb Anderson
metal arms 13/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
edpd1b ??/2010 2nd
with Leo Scheltinga
Hidden ??/2010 -
Rob Evans ??/2010 Lead O/S
Wyn Bach 07/Oct/09 2nd O/S
with Ched
Ched 07/Oct/09 Lead
VLogan ?/Oct/09 2nd
mikehenesy 04/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

Lead the first, lovely climbing. Chris got the scarey bit on the second.

with Chris Lodge
Liam FLeming 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with karen dalzell
davesb 13/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
lithos 09/Aug/09 AltLd

P2 - 5a version and what a pitch, as fine as you will find, gobsmackingly great, not for faint-hearted but never desparate

with cookie
groovy_nut 02/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with Patrick
taw ?/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 2

with Dave sb
mikelaing ?/Jul/09 AltLd
with Ian Whitehead
Hidden 25/Jun/09 AltLd
Dave Almond 14/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with A Crook
NeilGriffiths 14/Jun/09 -
with Adam, Dave A.
kleinej 14/Jun/09 Lead O/S

You'd certainly be in for a surprise if you did this expecting a 4b top pitch, so I'll agree with the North Wales Rock book and say 5a.

with Jayne J
Different Steve 14/Jun/09 Lead O/S

a fantastic and improbable-looking Pitch 2

with Clare
Hidden 14/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
A Crook 14/Jun/09 Lead O/S
JD19081986 14/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with Jason Kleine
rd20 14/Jun/09 AltLd

Enjoyed leading P1 but finger/arm kept cramping up whilst seconding P2 and came off

with Loic
Hidden 14/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
twright180 ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Jasper peny 30/May/09 2nd O/S
with Julian
Hidden 11/May/09 Lead O/S
bob johnson 09/May/09 2nd O/S

early season ascent - so the head was not having a good time - great rock - good moves - top draw

with Rich Ball
Hidden ?/May/09 Lead O/S
ebastock 18/Apr/09 2nd
with John Beddard & Wilson To
Hidden 18/Apr/09 Lead O/S
chedder 12/Apr/09 2nd
with andy woolston
snakebite 02/Nov/08 AltLd O/S

Led 1st Pitch

Ched 08/Oct/08 AltLd
Hidden 08/Oct/08 AltLd
Hidden 21/Sep/08 AltLd
bobpilgrem 20/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

2 distinct top pitches.The 4b goes up a short wall and then leftwards up a ramp passing flakes to treach base of a shallow chimney.Top notch pitch.Bottom pitch steep and awkward. The alternative 5a top pitch works left behind the large flakes before moving back right to join at base of the chimney.

with Bob/Nic
RachelP 20/Sep/08 2nd
with Chris
csalvage 30/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
with Bryan
Glyn 29/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
with Trystan
Hidden 26/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
ritchierich 26/Jul/08 AltLd O/S

Did 2nd pitch but would say it is more 4c then 5a climbing,however i am 6 foot and a long reach does help. The 5a grade comes from the Rockfax Mini Guide.

Hidden 13/Jul/08 2nd O/S
plastichead 13/Jul/08 2nd O/S
with Andy
psychicbread 13/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Mark
pete johnson 15/Jun/08 -
with Lun
SGD 01/Jun/08 Lead

great 2nd pitch.....poor carol has donated her blue Camelot to the 1st pitch so now there are 3 pieces of in situ gear on the 1st pitch and the 2nd pitch is probably worth 5a not 4b

with Carol Umarova
Hidden 25/May/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/May/08 -
Hidden 27/Mar/08 2nd
gareth scott borthwick 27/Mar/08 Lead O/S
with Harriet Brewster
Diggler ?/Feb/08 AltLd O/S
ChalkBall 27/Jan/08 Lead O/S

Lead first pitch.

robshep 27/Jan/08 AltLd O/S
with Dave Hunnisett
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
AndrewJenkins ??/2008 -
Sean Kelly ??/2008 -
Marcus ??/2008 -
tom_1985 20/Oct/07 AltLd O/S
with Martin Lane
barni ?/Sep/07 AltLd

LP 2nd

with Julie
Hidden 29/Aug/07 Lead
C@rwyn 22/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
with Heather and Lee
HeatherF 22/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

I lead 5a top pitch-V scary step out to an out of reach hold above an overhang:S had to take a side pull on a tiny crimp!

with Lee and Carwyn
davidjm 12/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
with Ian G
Allan Watson 29/Jul/07 AltLd
with Steve Thomas
Cowflinger 18/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with John Williams
shoulders 18/Jul/07 Lead
Luke Brooks ?/Jul/07 -
steven 23/Jun/07 AltLd O/S

I did first pitch. Climb should be upgraded to 4c at least.

with Simon Dawson
sdawson1 22/Jun/07 AltLd β

A hard sustained route right from the start. Exciting and thrilling. Plenty of gear but not for VS novices ! Good belays and possible abseil at the top.

with swifty
Ing 17/Jun/07 2nd
with Hal and James
halhorner 17/Jun/07 2nd
with James Shand, Ingrid Ferguson
mountainpenguin 01/May/07 AltLd


with luke farrar
Hidden 01/May/07 Lead O/S
James B 07/Apr/07 Lead
with Phil
Hidden 07/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
Rich A-Wilkes 06/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Monika
Hidden 06/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Moniawl 06/Apr/07 AltLd

I hate small jammed cams!!!

with rich
richardr ?/Apr/07 -
fran04 ??/2007 AltLd
peter myers ??/2007 -
with Tom Sylvester
Zoomer 24/Sep/06 AltLd

Steep and a bit undergraded.

with S. Hassel
kp64zl ?/Aug/06 AltLd
with Philip S
sgl0jd ?/Aug/06 Lead
with Kevin Williams
BarbsMurray 15/Jul/06 2nd
with Mikey
mje1398 28/May/06 AltLd O/S

I climbed first (4b) pitch tried and failed 2nd (4b) pitch which John climbed

Clucky 09/May/06 AltLd O/S
with Ross Harben
Mark Stevenson 29/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Chris Morison
Hidden ??/2006 -
mikelaing ??/2006 - ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/05 AltLd
nuts and bolts ?/May/05 -
Hidden ?/May/05 AltLd
Mark Davies PK ?/Mar/05 Lead O/S
with Laura
Norman_P_W 12/Aug/04 AltLd
with Bob M
Bob M 12/Aug/04 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/04 Lead
The Pulsing Motorik of Neu! 05/Jun/04 AltLd O/S
with Rebecca
nicholas Barrowclough 22/May/04 Lead
caradoc 22/May/04 AltLd rpt
with john b
chrishedgehog 09/Apr/04 Lead O/S

Ran it out in one brilliant pitch

with Joe Thompson
cem 08/Feb/04 Lead O/S

Led in one

with Joe
Hidden ??/2004 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2004 AltLd O/S
FrankW 30/Aug/03 2nd O/S
with Joe, Laura
dicky79 ?/Jun/03 AltLd O/S

2nd pitch

with Vic Odell
Roget ??/2003 Lead O/S
with jon
John Kettle ??/2003 AltLd
five 03/Aug/02 AltLd dog
with TW
Hidden 17/Jul/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/May/02 AltLd
jsw1 13/Apr/02 AltLd O/S
with Andy Gooch
Kerm ?/Feb/02 AltLd
thrutch ??/2002 Lead O/S
with johnny b
caradoc 29/Apr/01 Lead O/S
with MikeW
Hidden ?/Apr/01 AltLd
Mickdenali ??/2001 Lead O/S
with John Diplock
Shaved Atom ??/2001 Lead O/S
WB 18/May/00 Lead O/S
with Paul
Steve Lenartowicz ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 2nd
marcoleptic ??/2000 Lead
with Gibbon Bum
Hidden 17/Jul/99 AltLd O/S
Rob Davies ?/Jul/99 AltLd
buxtoncoffeelover ?/Jun/99 Lead
Hidden 02/May/99 2nd
Mark Riley ??/1999 AltLd O/S
with Stuart Greenall
Rob Kennard ??/1999 -
with James Dunlop
Hidden 03/Sep/98 AltLd
lost.arrow 05/Jul/98 Lead
with Gill Heartly
Pete Nugent 30/May/98 -
stokienomad 25/May/98 Lead
rachm2004 17/May/98 2nd
with Ian L
The Reaper 22/Mar/98 2nd O/S
zero six ??/1998 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe ??/1998 -

Rough date.

with Mike Rosser
Hidden ??/1998 AltLd
Bilbo 22/Jul/97 2nd
with Steve B & Annette
ellie macpherson ?/May/97 AltLd

Brilliant route, two contrasting pitches, the second felling really out there

with Neil Macpherson
Tim Bateman 25/Aug/96 AltLd
with Tim Joseph
nickdonohue 13/Jul/96 Lead dnf

only did 1st pitch due to incoming rain; escaped up easy ground

with Dave Chapman
Hidden ?/Jun/96 AltLd O/S
pete_fewings ??/1996 Lead O/S
Julian Wedd ??/1996 Lead
with C. Jones
Hidden 28/Oct/95 AltLd
iskra2000 28/Oct/95 AltLd
with Mark Leach
Hidden 12/Sep/95 2nd O/S
jmr 03/Sep/95 AltLd

Good value for VS!

with Paul Greenhow
Marti999 18/Jun/95 Lead
Chris Ellis 06/May/95 AltLd
with Louise Pellett
Hidden 13/Apr/95 Lead
Bullybones ??/1995 -
Ched ??/1995 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
ColinD 06/Nov/94 Lead
Hidden 23/Jul/94 AltLd
Hidden 02/Jul/94 Lead O/S
sdht 19/Jun/94 -
with Dave Ward
Hidden 30/May/94 2nd
Hidden 01/May/94 AltLd
malc 17/Apr/94 2nd
Hidden 18/Sep/93 AltLd
Hidden 18/Jun/93 AltLd
auld al ?/May/93 AltLd O/S
kennylind ??/1993 AltLd O/S

Nice climbing

Hidden 20/Apr/92 2nd
Hidden 21/Mar/92 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1992 -
andrew300169 27/Aug/91 AltLd O/S
with Tim
Iain Thow 14/Aug/91 AltLd

Led pitch 2, fantastic holds in a fabulous position, one of the most enjoyable routes I've ever done. Pretty reach-dependent, I'd give it 4c for my 5 ft 9.

with Rob Ivens
frost ?/Aug/91 -
tlr 28/Jul/91 AltLd
with Cal
Andy Say 30/Jun/91 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/91 Lead O/S
andrew300169 ??/1991 AltLd
with Pom
DubyaJamesDubya ??/1991 Lead O/S
with Nick Oldfield
Hidden ??/1991 AltLd
Neil R 26/May/90 Lead O/S
with Sharon
DaveHo ??/1990 Lead O/S
alan moore ??/1990 -

Very hard for a move.

Rog Wilko ?/Sep/89 Lead
with Debbie Wilkinson
Hidden 27/Aug/89 Lead
Hidden 10/Jan/88 AltLd
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1988 Lead
Hidden 28/Sep/86 2nd
wynaptomos ?/Aug/86 Solo rpt
Backinthegame ?/Jul/86 Lead O/S
with Gary Hughes
nigehughes ?/Apr/86 Lead

One of the best middle grade climbs outside the mainstream climbing areas. Worth a visit.

with Andy Morton
Nick Biven ??/1986 -
Hidden 24/Nov/85 2nd
wynaptomos ?/Sep/84 Solo
wynaptomos ?/Jul/84 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May/84 2nd O/S
AlanLittle ?/Apr/83 Lead
with Sue Kent
Nigel Bond 09/May/82 Lead
with Rodger Edenborough
babymoac 25/Jul/80 2nd
with MTW
Hidden 22/Jun/80 Lead
Hidden 05/May/80 AltLd
Andy Chadwick ??/1980 AltLd O/S
TonyF ?/Aug/79 Lead O/S
with Ian Birkinshaw
Hammy 21/Apr/79 AltLd
with Jonathon Stacey
Mark Kemball 01/May/78 AltLd
with Richard Lang
Steve Lewis 15/May/77 AltLd O/S
with Killer, sharpie
rogerskews 29/Apr/77 AltLd
with Martin Coward
Rob Davies 05/Sep/76 Lead
with Mike Papworth
Bolt Phobia 18/Feb/76 AltLd
with John Broadwell
RichardMc 04/May/75 2nd
with Ken Salter, Betty Seifert
Paul Clarke ??/1975 Lead
RichardMc 07/Jul/74 AltLd
with Dave Langmead
granitbahn ??/1974 AltLd
kjacks 11/Aug/73 Lead

Think we did the easy variation - mach easier than the real top pitch. Since climbed a few times via proper route.

with Ken Lax
pneame ??/1973 -
Martin Bennett 30/Oct/72 -
with JD
Dave Musgrove 20/Jun/71 AltLd
with Bob Knapton
greenbuoy 27/Aug/69 2nd
with A N Other
mikej 16/Mar/69 Lead
with E
Gordon Stainforth 16/Aug/68 AltLd
with John Stainforth
eroica64 01/Jun/66 Lead
with Eric Reynolds
uphillnow 18/Jun/64 Lead
with charlie Tanner
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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 97
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 28
Votes cast 93
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
Not Set