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USER ATTENTION
Advisory notice: Crows (most probably jackdaws) are reported to be nesting in the Graveyard area. Staying off routes/problems in this area will avoid possible disturbance.
Now owned by the BMC, this disused quarry has been dedicated as Open Access Land under the CRoW Act. A few things to consider when climbing at this crag:
- Whilst generally good quality gritstone, there is potential for loose rock given the site is a former quarry, where blasting techniques were used to remove rock and ongoing weathering could also loosen rock over time (as with any other crag).
- Consider wearing a helmet when climbing in the quarry.
- Some routes in the quarry feature fixed equipment such as pegs, stuck trad gear, belay stakes and even a few bolts. Fixed equipment should always be treated with caution and it is up to each climber to make a judgement call whether they think it is reliable. Consider backing up fixed equipment with your own gear wherever possible.
If you're able to lend a hand on the cleanup sessions, someone on the 'Lancashire Rock Revival' group will point you in the right direction: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1566324270279682
Crouch down below the obvious overhang buttress in the Graveyard area and climb through the overhang via dynamic move to a lip on the right hanside of the butress.
EDIT: This uses specific holds- much easier otherwise!
EDIT: This uses specific holds- much easier otherwise!
Gareth Wallis 2006.
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Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ehmarra | 24 Jan, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: After to speaking the guy who put up the FA he remembers this sequence. It's also an eliminate. Beer Belly starts at the flatty at the back and reaches to the big (lower) pinch with the left hand. Right hand to the slopey hold left of the good crimp on lip. Left to the upper pinch (NOT the edge on top of it) then go for the big jug out right. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: After to speaking the guy who put up the FA he remembers this sequence. It's also an eliminate. Beer Belly starts at the flatty at the back and reaches to the big (lower) pinch with the left hand. Right hand to the slopey hold left of the good crimp on lip. Left to the upper pinch (NOT the edge on top of it) then go for the big jug out right. |
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Guidebooks for Wilton 1
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Route of Interest
Rusty Wall
Grade: f6C 6b ***
(Brownstones)