60m, 2 pitches.
The route takes the line of the ramp that runs up the western wall of the Emperor, forming an obvious corner in its upper sections. Start in a sentry box overlooking the lake, just around the corner from the gully.
(1) 25 m. Climb the crack to where the rock steepens. Traverse left for 3 m. and climb the flakes to a sloping ledge below the prominent roof.
(2) 35 m. Move right into the main corner and climb it to the top. Crux is surmounting the first overlap. The second overlap is also tricky. Much bridging and jamming required! Good protection.
(1) 25 m. Climb the crack to where the rock steepens. Traverse left for 3 m. and climb the flakes to a sloping ledge below the prominent roof.
(2) 35 m. Move right into the main corner and climb it to the top. Crux is surmounting the first overlap. The second overlap is also tricky. Much bridging and jamming required! Good protection.
Owen Jacob, Stephen Gallwey Jun/1980.
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Ireland 3 Star HVS , Irish MCI Multipitch Routes
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