250m, 6 pitches. Contemporary continental grading: 6a (5b obl.), 8 pitches, and partly equipped.

Fiona Reid 12/Jul/17 AltLd

Led even pitches. Not many bolts on the easier pitches. We took 4 cams and a set of nuts. The cams would have sufficed as I think we only placed 2 nuts. The climbing was pretty good and very 3d at times. Some loose rock on the easier pitches but generally good. The second 6a pitch is pretty tricky and potential for pretty bad rope drag due to the traverse - my knees are black and blue as a result as it was a full body workout (pulled muscle in my torso doing this!) dragging myself onto the belay. The abseils were a bit of a nightmare. You only abseil part of the route, the rest is down an abseil piste or down a 7a. The rope jammed 4 times. One jam required reascending the final pitch, 2 we scrambled back up for as they were close to the belay. The final one was scary... I went too far on abseil 3 (Plaisir Ost says 40m but it's actually more like 25m). I continued to the next abseil which I got to on rope stretch - it looked more like 40m and more direct from the previous belay. Mike then abseiled to the correct place (assuming he'd just pick me up on the next abseil) but the rope got stuck and we couldn't reascend. Too much rope had been pulled to safely prussik back up. Thankfully another team from Lucerne freed the rope on their way down. I'd rather not think about what we'd have done if they'd not been there. Hopefully we can learn from our mistakes. 1. Don't go past the belay even if the length is v. wrong in guidebook. 2. If you think there's *any* chance to rope might snag get the second person to re-route it.

with Mike
Mike-W-99 12/Jul/17 AltLd

No problems with the climb with pitches 6 & 7 being the technical highlight. Major disaster abbing off with the rope getting stuck 4 times and the topo having the lengths of the abseils transposed at one point. The guys from Lucerne rescued our rope on the 3rd mishap and even they got theirs stuck twice requiring the 3rd team to retrieve. An eventful day and a few lessons learnt.

with Fiona
AnnaBacklund ?/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Dave Musgrove 13/Aug/91 AltLd
with Pete Finklaire
alpinist63 ?/Jul/83 -
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