Rockfax Description
A classic of the area. The cruxy middle section involves reachy and powerful climbing although this can be by-passed by shorties using a carefully-positioned buttock. © Rockfax

FA. D & JB.Winkler, Michel Piola Aug/2002

LRob 24/Oct/17 Lead RP
gregjack 20/Oct/17 Lead O/S
mic_b 20/Oct/17 Lead rpt
with John
Hidden 16/Oct/17 Lead dog
Emilysaladfingers 12/Oct/17 Lead RP

Brilliant climb! Really enjoyed working this, falling off and finally sending! My first of the grade and what a corker!

with helen
Hidden 12/Oct/17 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Oct/17 Lead O/S
esther ?/Oct/17 Lead
mop449 09/Sep/17 Lead RP

One go putting the draws in and remembering beta (2 rests) then sent next go. So much fun. My first 7b+. 5 goes in total.

RosieYates 07/Sep/17 Lead dnf

Thought I'd have a play while Danny rested. Great fun.

with Danny
mop449 07/Sep/17 Lead dog

3 goes today. Bolt to bolt, 2 rests, one rest. Can not believe the size of the jug I pump out on. Incredible route.

alek 11/May/17 Lead dog

Seemed to be miles away from this today

Gus 09/May/17 Lead
jimmyrua 03/May/17 Lead RP
with Kaly Crew
stv 03/May/17 Lead
with PW, Ry, Jimmy, B
Ri 02/May/17 Lead rpt
John 'B' Hutchinson 02/May/17 Lead RP

1st RP, totally gassed on the headwall but managed to fight my way to the chains. Stoater!

Aaron.Clifford 25/Apr/17 Lead RP

Should have onsighted! Missed a hold.. oh well second go. Didn't think it was reachy?

Patrick Hill 17/Apr/17 Lead RP
with Rach
robertmichaellovell 16/Apr/17 Lead dog

sleeping is not good flash preparation

with Steve Hillier, Doug Sharpe
CallumSturgeon ?/Apr/17 -
Hidden 19/Nov/16 Lead O/S
artmal 25/Oct/16 Lead RP
C coldwell-storry 17/Sep/16 Lead β
with jake Rodgers
stp 25/Aug/16 Lead RP
nikolai17 13/Jun/16 Lead dog

Close but no cigar. Cool route although not a fan of the crux move with the mono.. Bit painful!

with Sarah
PaddyN 06/May/16 Lead dnf

had an onsight attempt, couldn't figure out the crux. the mono pocket put me off trying for a redpoint!

dannyboy83 04/May/16 Lead O/S
with Lena
Matt Cooke 03/May/16 Lead β
Hidden 03/May/16 Lead β
peetermans 04/Apr/16 Lead RP

2nd go

with Mum
Teappleby 30/Mar/16 Lead RP

4th go. Warmed up by having a flash burn and dogging up to look at the moves. Went first go after I found some good beta rather than Speedy's typical 'be long and dyno'. Very nearly blew it after the crux though! Was clipping from the big jug just after the crux and foot slipped so nearly took a mega whip! Focused the mind a bit!

with Kaly2016
amccann 30/Mar/16 Lead RP

Reckon it would have gone 1st go (putting the draws in) if I'd built my feet up slightly higher after the first long stretch out of the hole. Got the route comfortably 2nd go, hardly pumped at all when I reached the chains.

Jake Young 21/Mar/16 Lead RP

1st RP, really cool route

with Kalymnos 2016
dom94 21/Mar/16 Lead RP

2nd go. Really good route.

polivmi1 ??/2016 -
Hidden 01/Nov/15 Lead O/S
mhairi thorburn 15/Oct/15 Lead RP

2nd go. Very nice.

with Davy
Hidden 13/Oct/15 Lead RP
khawk 12/Oct/15 Lead RP
with DT
datoon 12/Oct/15 Lead G/U
with K
Frances Bensley 16/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Alice Bensley
Hidden 15/Sep/15 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Aug/15 Lead dog
galerito 06/Jun/15 Lead RP

easy 7b+, but gem route

mshorter 18/May/15 Lead β
with Dougie, tom, erika
Kris suriyo 02/May/15 Lead O/S


with Gary
Hidden 14/Apr/15 Lead dog
Ri 07/Apr/15 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Apr/15 -
Mat Welsh ?/Apr/15 Lead RP

Ticked second go - easy cave tufa lump climbing into a good crux and a pumpy, confusing! vert headwall. Class !!

LucasHarazin 08/Nov/14 Lead RP
lewiz 24/Oct/14 Lead RP
with Artur Malczuk
lewiz 20/Oct/14 Lead dog

Figured out the beta. Need a rest day for the RP. Probably middle of the grade 7b+ for me, definitely not upper end of the grade. Feel my beta is continually improving, so may even be soft when you work it a bit longer.

with Marek Pietrasz
Kyuzo ?/Sep/14 Lead β
with Emyr Rees
Hidden ?/Sep/14 Lead β
buzby78 10/May/14 Lead rpt
with Jess
Macca_7 09/May/14 Lead RP

Felt absolutely nowhere near until I did it! 3 bolt to bolts 1 really weak effort then sent next go! Superb route.

quiffhanger 03/May/14 Lead O/S
with Kate
Oliver Tilbury 03/May/14 Lead RP
tom russell ?/May/14 Lead β
Hidden ?/May/14 Lead RP
nickb1 28/Apr/14 Lead RP
Liam Ingram 28/Apr/14 Lead RP

3rd go. First 7b+!

Hidden 23/Apr/14 Lead dog
Hidden 21/Apr/14 Lead RP
jamiefoxen 19/Apr/14 Lead RP
with Liam Ingram, Fergus Cuthill, jamie sparks
Hidden 17/Apr/14 Lead dog
seanwalsh 08/Apr/14 Lead RP
Ri 08/Apr/14 Lead RP
Hidden 24/Mar/14 Lead dnf
Hidden 07/Nov/13 Lead RP
Hidden 31/Oct/13 Lead dog
ukb & bmc shark 28/Oct/13 Lead RP

Beta sandbagged by Karl

Fredrik Nyberg 24/Oct/13 Lead RP

Tried it a year ago. I had to dig deep to come out on top on this one.

davidliu 09/Oct/13 Lead RP

RP1. Difficult to flash, lots of holds but which one is good? Found the move after the first crux more difficult. Midway hands free rest.

with Steve, Alek Kumar
Adam Booth 07/Oct/13 Lead RP

1st RP

Tomar 10/Sep/13 Lead RP

Felt really hard on my first go then was shown the right way by Jay bro and claimed it on my third RP with some grunting noises. This and Alfredo made my short but rewarding holiday in kaly

Hidden 26/Apr/13 Lead β
Hidden 25/Apr/13 TR dog
Mike Owen 14/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
Carter 14/Apr/13 Lead dog

One bolt to bolt, got all the moves easily but ran out of time for a redpoint

with Ed
mic_b 04/Apr/13 Lead β
Hidden 04/Apr/13 Lead β
Cat G ?/Apr/13 Lead RP

3rd day of trying, 8th go, awesome route!

DeanT ??/2013 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2013 Lead dog
Hidden 30/Sep/12 Lead RP
Naomi Kyan 03/May/12 Lead RP
nicolat ?/May/12 Lead RP
innes ?/May/12 Lead β
woody8 ?/May/12 Lead
Hidden 12/Apr/12 Lead RP
Nick1812P 07/Apr/12 Lead dnf
with Kalymnos 2012
CRiddiford 07/Apr/12 Lead dog

so good and possible for next time

mwatson 07/Apr/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 07/Apr/12 Lead β
tom harrison ?/Apr/12 Lead
nicolat ??/2012 Lead RP
with James Mitchell
mike reed ??/2012 -
Hidden 21/Nov/11 Lead RP
JulesV ?/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Glenn Sutcliffe 24/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with keefe
Hidden 14/Oct/11 Lead RP
Tris.w 14/Oct/11 Lead RP

7b+'s don't get much better. Was way too close to flashing this. Second go.

with sash.c
fildac 24/Sep/11 Lead dnf
NDD 31/Aug/11 Lead O/S

End of the day, felt pretty tired and hard!

Hidden 08/Aug/11 Lead dog
Hidden 24/May/11 Lead dog
_m.cox_ 19/May/11 Lead RP
westyb3 19/May/11 Lead O/S
with Alan Sarhan
jfreeman 27/Apr/11 Lead O/S


with George Hartley
John Henry Wynn 11/Nov/10 -
DavidEvans 02/Nov/10 Lead RP

1st redpoint, 1 dog/1TR

with Helen Garrett
Robbie_Phillips ?/Nov/10 -
belay bunny turned bad 28/Oct/10 2nd
with loundsy
Hidden 28/Oct/10 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Oct/10 -
AlistairB 24/Sep/10 Lead RP

First redpoint after dogging 3 times. Awesome route, think the 7b+ given in the new guide is about right, can't see how it'd merit 7c.

with Cheehan
whistler 15/Jun/10 Lead dog

So nearly got this on sight! Almost unbearably hot though... Great route

with Anna
Hidden ?/May/10 Lead
jgustafsson ?/Mar/10 Lead RP

Crux took a couple of tries, but surely still must be very easy for 7b+.

with Jen
Gus 21/Oct/09 Lead O/S
mux 31/Aug/09 Lead RP

4th go .. used a couple of under cuts to get around the big move at the crux. felt hard but better than a lunge.

with Damian the Canadian
steve_biczyk ?/May/09 Lead RP

Great route, used a heelhook at the crux, 2nd go. 7b/+

with Emma Curry, Marcus Pontin
marcpontin ?/May/09 Lead RP
with steve
Hidden ?/Apr/09 Lead RP
Rob Grant ?/Jan/09 Lead
La Mont ??/2009 -
Eduardo Martinez ?/Nov/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Oct/08 Lead RP
Dangerous Dave 17/Oct/08 Lead dog

Will get it next year. Superb

with Dan Richardson
Richard Horn 16/Oct/08 Lead RP
Hidden 30/Sep/08 Lead O/S
ksjs 04/Sep/08 Lead RP

2nd go today. great stuff: steep but straightforward climbing gains the crux and then an upper wall thats a bit meatier than Gladiator

Hidden 14/May/08 Lead O/S
Kev Little ??/2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Dec/07 Lead O/S
keefe 14/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Tansy
elmihu 06/Oct/07 -
with lucy
Hidden ?/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Paul Clarke ?/Oct/07 Lead dnf

too big a queue.....

with Nigel Baker, Keith Morgan
Morgan Woods 27/Sep/07 Lead RP

Got on 4th try over 2 days.....a bit wobbly at the crux but managed to pull through, shake out and stick with it for the top section.

with David S
ksjs 21/Sep/07 Lead dnf

fell at crux 3 times, didnt hang around to work it out - people waiting. straightforward but sustained up to crux (good rest against big tufa).

bencarpenter 14/Sep/07 Lead RP

Redpointed after two 'inspection' climbs, F7b+ in the local 2006 guide.

with Alan Higham
Hidden ??/2007 -
Steve Crowe 13/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with KM
Hidden 28/Sep/06 Lead dnf
Hidden 28/Sep/06 Lead RP
Hidden ?/May/06 TR dog
Dave Musgrove ?/May/06 Lead dog

GT3 (twice) but too pumpy and painful for me.

with Nigel Baker
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?/May/05 Lead O/S
with Dad
martroberts 10/Oct/04 Lead RP

excellent, 2nd go

skygodley 03/Jun/03 Lead RP
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High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
Votes cast 28
Votes cast 65
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set