Rockfax Description
A classic of the area. The cruxy middle section involves reachy and powerful climbing although this can be by-passed by shorties using a carefully-positioned buttock. © Rockfax

FA. D & JB.Winkler, Michel Piola Aug/2002

Hidden 19/Nov/16 Lead O/S
artmal 25/Oct/16 Lead RP
with Radek
C coldwell-storry 17/Sep/16 Lead β
with jake Rodgers
stp 25/Aug/16 Lead RP
nikolai17 13/Jun/16 Lead dog

Close but no cigar. Cool route although not a fan of the crux move with the mono.. Bit painful!

with Sarah
PaddyN 06/May/16 Lead dnf

had an onsight attempt, couldn't figure out the crux. the mono pocket put me off trying for a redpoint!

dannyboy83 04/May/16 Lead O/S
with Lena
Matt Cooke 03/May/16 Lead β
Hidden 03/May/16 Lead β
peetermans 04/Apr/16 Lead RP

2nd go

with Mum
amccann 30/Mar/16 Lead RP

Reckon it would have gone 1st go (putting the draws in) if I'd built my feet up slightly higher after the first long stretch out of the hole. Got the route comfortably 2nd go, hardly pumped at all when I reached the chains.

Teappleby 30/Mar/16 Lead RP

4th go. Warmed up by having a flash burn and dogging up to look at the moves. Went first go after I found some good beta rather than Speedy's typical 'be long and dyno'. Very nearly blew it after the crux though! Was clipping from the big jug just after the crux and foot slipped so nearly took a mega whip! Focused the mind a bit!

with Kaly2016
dom94 21/Mar/16 Lead RP

2nd go. Really good route.

Jake Young 21/Mar/16 Lead RP

1st RP, really cool route

with Kalymnos 2016
polivmi1 ??/2016 -
Hidden 01/Nov/15 Lead O/S
mhairi thorburn 15/Oct/15 Lead RP

2nd go. Very nice.

with Davy
Hidden 13/Oct/15 Lead RP
datoon 12/Oct/15 Lead G/U
with K
khawk 12/Oct/15 Lead RP
with DT
Frances Bensley 16/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Alice Bensley
Hidden 15/Sep/15 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Aug/15 Lead dog
galerito 06/Jun/15 Lead RP

easy 7b+, but gem route

mshorter 18/May/15 Lead β
with Dougie, tom, erika
chakrit 02/May/15 Lead O/S


with Gary
Hidden 14/Apr/15 Lead dog
Ri 07/Apr/15 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Apr/15 -
Mat Welsh ?/Apr/15 Lead RP

Ticked second go - easy cave tufa lump climbing into a good crux and a pumpy, confusing! vert headwall. Class !!

LucasHarazin 08/Nov/14 Lead RP
lewiz 24/Oct/14 Lead RP
with Artur Malczuk
lewiz 20/Oct/14 Lead dog

Figured out the beta. Need a rest day for the RP. Probably middle of the grade 7b+ for me, definitely not upper end of the grade. Feel my beta is continually improving, so may even be soft when you work it a bit longer.

with Marek Pietrasz
Hidden ?/Sep/14 Lead β
Kyuzo ?/Sep/14 Lead β
with Emyr Rees
buzby78 10/May/14 Lead rpt
with Jess
Macca_7 09/May/14 Lead RP

Felt absolutely nowhere near until I did it! 3 bolt to bolts 1 really weak effort then sent next go! Superb route.

with Alex Booker
quiffhanger 03/May/14 Lead O/S
with Kate
Oliver Tilbury 03/May/14 Lead RP
tom russell ?/May/14 Lead β
Liam Ingram 28/Apr/14 Lead RP

3rd go. First 7b+!

nickb1 28/Apr/14 Lead RP
Hidden 23/Apr/14 Lead dog
Hidden 21/Apr/14 Lead RP
jamiefoxen 19/Apr/14 Lead RP
with Liam Ingram, Fergus Cuthill, jamie sparks
Hidden 17/Apr/14 Lead dog
Ri 08/Apr/14 Lead RP
seanwalsh 08/Apr/14 Lead RP
Hidden 24/Mar/14 Lead dnf
Hidden 07/Nov/13 Lead RP
Hidden 31/Oct/13 Lead dog
ukb shark 28/Oct/13 Lead RP

Beta sandbagged by Karl

Fredrik Nyberg 24/Oct/13 Lead RP

Tried it a year ago. I had to dig deep to come out on top on this one.

davidliu 09/Oct/13 Lead RP

RP1. Difficult to flash, lots of holds but which one is good? Found the move after the first crux more difficult. Midway hands free rest.

with Steve, Alek Kumar
Adam Booth 07/Oct/13 Lead RP

1st RP

Tomar 10/Sep/13 Lead RP

Felt really hard on my first go then was shown the right way by Jay bro and claimed it on my third RP with some grunting noises. This and Alfredo made my short but rewarding holiday in kaly

Hidden 26/Apr/13 Lead β
adamjeffs 25/Apr/13 TR dog
Carter 14/Apr/13 Lead dog

One bolt to bolt, got all the moves easily but ran out of time for a redpoint

with Ed
Mike Owen 14/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
mic_b 04/Apr/13 Lead β
Hidden 04/Apr/13 Lead β
Cat G ?/Apr/13 Lead RP

3rd day of trying, 8th go, awesome route!

DeanT ??/2013 Lead O/S
Naomi Kyan 03/May/12 Lead RP
Hidden ?/May/12 Lead RP
woody8 ?/May/12 Lead
innes ?/May/12 Lead β
Hidden 12/Apr/12 Lead RP
remus 07/Apr/12 Lead β

Loads of beta. Cool line, pity about the wear and tear.

with Sheffield Randoms, Ben Kelsey
CRiddiford 07/Apr/12 Lead dog

so good and possible for next time

mwatson 07/Apr/12 Lead rpt
Nick1812P 07/Apr/12 Lead dnf
with Kalymnos 2012
tom harrison ?/Apr/12 Lead
Hidden ??/2012 Lead RP
mike reed ??/2012 -
Hidden 21/Nov/11 Lead RP
JulesV ?/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Glenn Sutcliffe 24/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with keefe
Tris.w 14/Oct/11 Lead RP

7b+'s don't get much better. Was way too close to flashing this. Second go.

with sash.c
Hidden 14/Oct/11 Lead RP
fildac 24/Sep/11 Lead dnf
NDD 31/Aug/11 Lead O/S

End of the day, felt pretty tired and hard!

Al Doig 08/Aug/11 Lead dog

Great moves but the most battered route I have set foot on. will not bother going back for the red point...

Hidden 24/May/11 Lead dog
westyb3 19/May/11 Lead O/S
with Alan Sarhan
_m.cox_ 19/May/11 Lead RP
jfreeman 27/Apr/11 Lead O/S


with George Hartley
John Henry Wynn 11/Nov/10 -
DavidEvans 02/Nov/10 Lead RP

1st redpoint, 1 dog/1TR

with Helen Garrett
Robbie_Phillips ?/Nov/10 -
Hidden 28/Oct/10 Lead dog
belay bunny turned bad 28/Oct/10 2nd
with loundsy
AlistairB 24/Sep/10 Lead RP

First redpoint after dogging 3 times. Awesome route, think the 7b+ given in the new guide is about right, can't see how it'd merit 7c.

with Cheehan
whistler 15/Jun/10 Lead dog

So nearly got this on sight! Almost unbearably hot though... Great route

with Anna
Hidden ?/May/10 Lead
jgustafsson ?/Mar/10 Lead RP

Crux took a couple of tries, but surely still must be very easy for 7b+.

with Jen
Gus 21/Oct/09 Lead O/S
mux 31/Aug/09 Lead RP

4th go .. used a couple of under cuts to get around the big move at the crux. felt hard but better than a lunge.

with Damian the Canadian
steve_biczyk ?/May/09 Lead RP

Great route, used a heelhook at the crux, 2nd go. 7b/+

with Emma Curry, Marcus Pontin
marcpontin ?/May/09 Lead RP
with steve
Hidden ?/Apr/09 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Jan/09 Lead
La Mont ??/2009 -
Hidden 19/Oct/08 Lead RP
Dangerous Dave 17/Oct/08 Lead dog

Will get it next year. Superb

with Dan Richardson
Richard Horn 16/Oct/08 Lead RP
Hidden 30/Sep/08 Lead O/S
ksjs 04/Sep/08 Lead RP

2nd go today. great stuff: steep but straightforward climbing gains the crux and then an upper wall thats a bit meatier than Gladiator

Hidden 14/May/08 Lead O/S
Kev Little ??/2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Dec/07 Lead O/S
keefe 14/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Tansy
elmihu 06/Oct/07 -
with lucy
Hidden ?/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Paul Clarke ?/Oct/07 Lead dnf

too big a queue.....

with Nigel Baker, Keith Morgan
Morgan Woods 27/Sep/07 Lead RP

Got on 4th try over 2 days.....a bit wobbly at the crux but managed to pull through, shake out and stick with it for the top section.

with David S
ksjs 21/Sep/07 Lead dnf

fell at crux 3 times, didnt hang around to work it out - people waiting. straightforward but sustained up to crux (good rest against big tufa).

bencarpenter 14/Sep/07 Lead RP

Redpointed after two 'inspection' climbs, F7b+ in the local 2006 guide.

with Alan Higham
Hidden ??/2007 -
Steve Crowe 13/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with KM
Hidden 28/Sep/06 Lead RP
Hidden 28/Sep/06 Lead dnf
Dave Musgrove ?/May/06 Lead dog

GT3 (twice) but too pumpy and painful for me.

with Nigel Baker
Hidden ?/May/06 TR dog
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?/May/05 Lead O/S
with Dad
martroberts 10/Oct/04 Lead RP

excellent, 2nd go

skygodley 03/Jun/03 Lead RP
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High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
Votes cast 26
Votes cast 61
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set