Rockfax Description
An outstanding route that wends its way up the rounded prow in an outrageous position. There are lots of threads and other fixed gear but a rack is required. Begin at the base of the arete. Move up right and then back left to the arete and continue to a cave. Make some difficult moves to exit the cave, then follow pockets up leftwards to an overhung niche. Pull out of the niche on the right and then head for a crack up left - hard. Take the crack and wall above it to the left end of the long capping roof. Finish up the broken and vegetated final wall to bolt belays. © Rockfax
FA. R.Edwards, P.Williams (2 pts) 3.8.77. FFA. K.Carrigan, D.Hall May 1981.
North Wales Rock Graded List , Ultimate E5 ticklist , Matt's North Wales Motivation
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Tim Neill | 30 Jul, 2022 |
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βeta: Threads replaced and original start cleaned October 2021 as per described by LRob | βeta? | |
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βeta: Threads replaced and original start cleaned October 2021 as per described by LRob |
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Lrob | 19 Sep, 2021 |
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βeta: It's worth noting that the first 2 bolts at the start are a harder direct version. The original went up left and followed easier but looser ground to the cave. The Direct start was bolted and climbed by Neil Dyer, and adds a bit to the difficulty. | βeta? | |
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βeta: It's worth noting that the first 2 bolts at the start are a harder direct version. The original went up left and followed easier but looser ground to the cave. The Direct start was bolted and climbed by Neil Dyer, and adds a bit to the difficulty. |
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Grade: E5 6b ***
(Castell y Gwynt)