The rock on the first half of this route is very unreliable. Start on the right-hand side of the chossy bay, just left of a buddleia. Step up rightwards into a groove; then climb this and the rib on its right to a ledge under a notch in the roof. Pull through the notch, and climb to a large buddleia. Make a rising leftward traverse, crossing the horizontal breaks, to finish via the large flake and projecting block.
Richard Hall, Mike Kann 02/Nov/2007