28m. Takes the subsidiary slab right of Rob's slab. Still some loose rock on the top groove, but with traffic should become a good, well protected route. Start at the bottom of the slab, down to the right of the large slumped blocks (from which Volume Eleven starts). Climb the slab, trending slightly right, bypass the roof, and gain a groove. Climb this for 3 metres; then use an obvious jug to swing back left onto the top slab. Finish up this.

B Sutton, I Butterworth, H Harris 09/Jul/2005

runwildjohn 08/Nov/17 Lead
with Dave Rawlinson
Donny M 29/Oct/17 Lead O/S
with ljkenny
ljkenny 29/Oct/17 2nd O/S
with Donald
thompsonjr21 22/Oct/17 2nd O/S
AshBarnes 22/Oct/17 Lead O/S
with Gravy
caron gaisford 15/Oct/17 Lead
with Jezz
flatlandrich76 15/Oct/17 Lead
with Torb
JezzaCat 15/Oct/17 2nd O/S
with Caron
Rgledable 17/Sep/17 2nd O/S
jonah_cook 17/Sep/17 Lead O/S
Fred Henry 28/Aug/17 Lead
aleks 28/Aug/17 2nd
with fh218
TGHB 19/Aug/17 Lead O/S
jascott83 12/Aug/17 Lead O/S

First lead!

Hidden 12/Aug/17 2nd O/S
runwildjohn 10/Aug/17 Lead
MattL80 10/Aug/17 2nd
Hidden ?/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jul/17 2nd O/S
Sam116 24/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with Jose
haribotheclimber 08/Jul/17 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/17 2nd
etrillaud 01/Jul/17 2nd O/S
with Bud
budchawla 01/Jul/17 Lead O/S

Left a lovely little cam at the top of the route :/

stevebullet10 18/Jun/17 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Jun/17 2nd
kiwi boy 11/Jun/17 Lead

Why on earth has this not got 2 stars. Great moves and gear throughtout. The position is as good if not better than Robs crack. Great sinker nut on the top of the overlap. I think the 4b move is about 3m off the ground. Excellent blue totum placement 2 moves from the top. One to repeat

with Nick Shearman
RachelHC 11/Jun/17 2nd O/S
with Chris M
acer2012 28/May/17 Lead O/S
with Alice Tustian
Stanners 22/May/17 Lead O/S

really nice route after 'work' - sat on the grass at the top in the sun for a evening picnic!

Hidden 13/May/17 Lead O/S
dbm 07/May/17 2nd O/S
with Steve Hind
matt_batchelor 06/May/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/May/17 Lead rpt
Hidden 06/May/17 2nd O/S
markfromstoke 28/Apr/17 -
with Steve N
fharnish13 23/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with Zoe!
Hidden 23/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Skip 22/Apr/17 2nd O/S
BALD EAGLE 22/Apr/17 2nd
with Skip, Iain Peters
Hidden 21/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/17 2nd
tim.rose2 17/Apr/17 Lead
Hidden 09/Apr/17 Lead rpt
d.heard 09/Apr/17 2nd
with ThomN
ThomN 09/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with DavidH
steve_gibbs 09/Apr/17 2nd O/S
with Tom Harding
Hidden 01/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Mar/17 Lead
jamespilgrim 25/Mar/17 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Nov/16 Lead rpt
SenzuBean 24/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Agreed that this route is well worth doing. It's not very loose at all IMO. 1.5 stars :)

with Manoj
leland stamper 15/Sep/16 Solo rpt
lightolly 14/Sep/16 2nd
Hidden 09/Sep/16 Lead
sajrf123 30/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Think went off route at top....loose and grassy

leland stamper 24/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with BU6330
HarryPalmer 13/Aug/16 2nd
with Gareth
Clee 03/Aug/16 2nd
drgrange 03/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Clee
The Ivanator 16/Jul/16 Lead rpt
with Rob
el_monty 10/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Paddy, Harrison
tyho 10/Jul/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Natalie C 09/Jul/16 2nd β
Steve Woollard 05/Jul/16 Lead
with Chris
Hidden 05/Jul/16 2nd
Hidden 02/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Darrell Read 23/Jun/16 2nd
with Simon Brown
afterthesend 19/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Was really raining by this point, climbing on grease, type 2 fun.

with Dad
Hidden 05/Jun/16 2nd O/S
Jimkato ?/Jun/16 -
Jimkato ?/Jun/16 Lead
with Matt Walker
Trippinjester 29/May/16 Lead O/S
Paul_southgate68 29/May/16 2nd
BALD EAGLE 23/May/16 Lead
with Dan Guy
Robin Woodward 01/May/16 Lead rpt

Very soft touch, loads of gear, although the second half is a pretty boomy crack.

Jenny Dart 01/May/16 2nd
with Robin
amester 17/Apr/16 2nd β

Nice climb easy, lots of loose rock at the top

Sharon205 17/Apr/16 2nd
jcking231 17/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Nice warm up, good gear, loose rock at the top

with Sharon Achtsam
Hidden 02/Apr/16 Lead O/S
eoinb 02/Apr/16 Lead
hutchay 02/Apr/16 2nd O/S
Matt Smith 02/Apr/16 2nd O/S

Quite nice apart from loose section in middle. Zoe's hardest onsight lead.

miriamclaire 02/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with hutchay
crater 01/Apr/16 2nd rpt
with steve
Steve Woollard 01/Apr/16 Lead
with Donald
Sam O'Rourke 30/Mar/16 2nd O/S
elewis96 30/Mar/16 Lead O/S
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
dansimkin 15/Nov/15 Lead O/S
BusyLizzie 31/Oct/15 2nd
with Jonny
mr random 18/Oct/15 Lead
with James ?
Piers Harley 18/Oct/15 Lead
with Simon Clark
Radical-G 04/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Sep/15 AltLd
Hidden 22/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Limitless 22/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with Andy M, Lee
tdoyle 17/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Richie
cpoad 15/Aug/15 2nd rpt
with John S
Chris Redding ?/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Elizabeth Alexander ?/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with Chris
Robin Woodward 21/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Jenny Dart 21/Jul/15 2nd
with Robin
ali.scott 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Pete C
Angrypenguin 11/Jul/15 2nd O/S
Win-yei 10/Jun/15 2nd
with Rob
Rob Morgan 10/Jun/15 Lead
with Jonathan Morgan, Win-yei
9fingerjon 10/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with Rob & Win
Hidden 07/Jun/15 Lead
Hidden 07/Jun/15 2nd O/S
tobydunford 04/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
jhobbs 30/May/15 Lead O/S

The rock is a little loose and un-nerving above the lower slab just before swinging left onto the upper slab.

Ejminee 29/May/15 Lead O/S
LovelyMrTom 28/May/15 2nd

Get the feeling it's not climbed much. It's now got a free nut left in it!

MoWalker3 15/Apr/15 -
with Cormac
markfromstoke 15/Apr/15 Lead
with Terry
Steve Woollard 13/Apr/15 2nd
with Donald
crater 13/Apr/15 Lead O/S

lovely climb deserves at least one star

with steve
Fatclimber 08/Apr/15 TR rpt
with Self Belayed
Adrian Daniels 06/Apr/15 Lead

Lots of loose rock in the groove before you traverse left onto the slab.

with John Parrott
Bob M 04/Apr/15 2nd
Hidden 20/Mar/15 TR
Hidden 02/Jan/15 Lead
Hidden 02/Jan/15 2nd rpt
David Staples 25/Oct/14 Lead O/S
homing-penguin 25/Oct/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Oct/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 12/Oct/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 26/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Sep/14 Lead
Hidden 14/Sep/14 2nd
callans 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Lovely climb, although less lovely (and possibly similar grade, despite what the book says) than Rob's Crack.

abtibbs 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Jamie Roberts
katiep 07/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Callan
zcsharp 07/Sep/14 2nd
Louvet 24/Aug/14 Lead
with Tarquin
Tarquin 24/Aug/14 2nd
with Louise
Hidden 19/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Aug/14 Lead rpt
BBEENN 18/Aug/14 Lead
Hidden 03/Aug/14 2nd
alexporter 03/Aug/14 2nd
with Naomi Dalton, Clare Finn
Fatclimber 03/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Aug/14 Lead
Louvet 27/Jul/14 2nd
with Tarquin
Steve Webster 27/Jul/14 Lead
Adrian Daniels 27/Jul/14 2nd
Tarquin 27/Jul/14 Lead
with Louise
Moritz L 26/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Stefan, rylett
reece.robinson 20/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Lamberti 20/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 10/Jul/14 2nd O/S
cameron_hall 29/Jun/14 2nd O/S
trwolfe13 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Pretty easy. Felt a little soft. Fun all the same.

Pintsize 29/Jun/14 2nd O/S
91dave 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/14 Lead
Hidden 29/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Jun/14 2nd
Tom Harper 16/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Well protected but very green exit

Neil Watson 14/Jun/14 Lead β

Did the correct route this time with some direction from Riddle. Although harder than the first time I did it (wrong route) actually felt cleaner.

with Riddle
riddle 14/Jun/14 2nd O/S
samparsons 13/Jun/14 2nd
with John
Hidden 06/Jun/14 2nd
Hidden 06/Jun/14 Solo rpt
brian watson 05/Jun/14 Lead O/S
MontyH 05/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Brian
Hidden ?/Jun/14 -
martin one 31/May/14 Lead O/S

Once all the loose bits fall away would deserve a star.Needs more traffic

with Adam s, Dave Potter
nicknicely 19/May/14 Lead rpt
with brian
bpmclimb 19/May/14 2nd rpt
felixizzy 17/May/14 Lead O/S
with Sean
Hidden 16/May/14 2nd rpt
shaunleonard 16/May/14 2nd O/S
with Sam, Ian
Hidden 16/May/14 Lead O/S
winter hill1 12/May/14 Lead

well protected lower, crap rock at the top and grassy finish....scary

with amanda morgan
Hidden 09/May/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 09/May/14 Lead O/S
wilf 05/May/14 Lead O/S

tasty low down, step up on to top slab straight forward with good protection.

with nick f
The Ivanator 04/May/14 Lead rpt
with Rob
BallsOfSteel 29/Apr/14 Solo rpt
Hidden 19/Apr/14 2nd rpt
Tom K 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Andy B.
markfromstoke 15/Apr/14 -
with Steve N
Trisha Murphy 13/Apr/14 2nd O/S
with Larkins
BALD EAGLE 12/Apr/14 Lead
with Kevin Van Colina, Rob Horler
Hidden 12/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Neil Watson 29/Mar/14 Lead O/S

May have strayed a little too far to the right at the start and definitely got onto the upper slab further up than the 4 metres from the corner which I think is easier than HS. Nice exposure at the top.

georgeevans88 29/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Alex P
Hidden 29/Mar/14 2nd O/S
The Ivanator 15/Mar/14 2nd rpt
with Rich
Hidden 09/Mar/14 Lead
Hidden 06/Oct/13 Solo O/S
Hidden 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S
cdpuk 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with Alex Peka
froglette 05/Oct/13 2nd
with Julian Bridle
Hidden 05/Oct/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/13 Lead
reece.robinson 31/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with Phil Wallam
Hidden 20/Aug/13 Lead
Hidden 20/Aug/13 -
Tristypants 11/Aug/13 2nd
with Helen Eden
Hidden 11/Aug/13 Lead
jopayne1988 ?/Aug/13 2nd β
Steve Woollard 16/Jul/13 Lead
Hidden 16/Jul/13 2nd O/S
johnl 07/Jul/13 Solo rpt
nicknicely 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with steve
becoming-stranger 08/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Beth Mc
beth_may 08/Jun/13 Lead
Griff1990 05/Jun/13 Lead O/S
AndyF 04/Jun/13 2nd
with Echna
Echna 04/Jun/13 Lead O/S

First trad lead!! Great fun. Bit loose at the end of the first slab before going left onto the upper slab. Second slab much easier than the beginning and no loose rock.

with Andy
Hidden 03/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Jun/13 Lead
Hidden 03/Jun/13 Lead
ADAMSTUBS ?/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Stuart William 20/May/13 2nd
with Ben F
johnl 06/May/13 Lead O/S
with Sarah Perrett, Adam Perrett
Adam Perrett 06/May/13 Lead rpt
with Sarah Perrett, John Leonard
Maxim2023 ?/May/13 2nd
with Kate Tarrant
kate tarrant ?/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Apr/13 Lead rpt
JenRoberts 06/Apr/13 2nd O/S
with Chris P
cpoad 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Jen R
bradholmes 14/Oct/12 Lead dog
cbonner 14/Oct/12 2nd rpt
cbonner 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Rope solo.

CraigMcAteer 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with rachel hyett
Hidden 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
MartinN 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Difficulties are low down where the protection is rather marginal, worth the grade for the first half. The step round onto the upper slab felt more committing than it was.

Hidden 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Sep/12 2nd
LukeyG 03/Sep/12 Lead
Hidden 03/Sep/12 2nd O/S
riff156 02/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Craig Preston
Hidden 01/Sep/12 2nd O/S
riddle 26/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Tara
stingray_tara 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Roger Hamilton-Smith
Hidden 14/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 14/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
iantoday 11/Aug/12 2nd β
Bobling 11/Aug/12 Lead

Gets the grade on the first few moves, pretty standard FCQ HS thereafter.

with Alan, Ali
wurzelinzummerset 11/Aug/12 2nd
with Ally, Rob
wurzelinzummerset 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Lee
Big Lee 21/Jul/12 2nd rpt
with Alan
paul1234 20/Jul/12 2nd
with luke13
luke13 20/Jul/12 Lead
mikeydee135 28/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Patrick C
mikeydee135 28/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Patrick C
Hidden 19/Jun/12 2nd
Warner 19/Jun/12 Lead
Big Lee 20/May/12 2nd O/S

More like HS. Nothing too taxing although rock still a little friable.

ape1980 24/Mar/12 TR O/S
with Jude, lazzaw
Hey Jude 24/Mar/12 TR
The Ivanator 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Some friable rock. A worthwhile route though, possibly one *

with Craig
DreadyCraig 14/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Ivan B
bpmclimb 13/Aug/11 2nd rpt

We now agree with HS 4b, also with right-trending line on lower slab (rather than up then across).

with Helen S
Hidden 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Mark Davies PK 16/Jun/11 Solo rpt

Definitive HS 4b

Mark Davies PK 04/Jun/11 TR O/S

HS 4b

with Mr Shunt
Huntlyfiddler 15/Apr/11 2nd
bpmclimb 15/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Good route, reasonably solid. VS 4b seems about right; top end of the 4b bit, perhaps. Measured at 28m.

with Clare
31770 ??/2011 -
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High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 43
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 43
Votes cast 35
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set