37m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fantastic and varied route, with a pumpy first pitch that leads to a stunning climax in the upper groove. Start to the left of a grotty pillar, by a small cave.
1) 5c, 22m. Climb the awkward crack out of the cave and step right onto the wall above a thread. Go up to a roof (peg) then right again and up a bulging groove. Move right to the foot of another groove and climb this moving left at the top to a stance. Bolt belay.
2) 6a,15m. Move left to the black groove and climb it past a bolt. At the break traverse right to a belay. Abseil off or...
3) 5b,10m. Move up left into a corner then up to a peg. Move left again and finish direct. Belay well back. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
One of the finest routes of its grade in the country - sustained and spectacular, building in to a stunning climax in the upper groove. Start to the left of a grotty pillar, by a small cave.

FA (aid) R.Edwards, N.Metcalf, T.Jepson 11.10.75. Ayear later J.Moran andP.Williams freed the 2nd pitch after using 1pt aid on the 1st. R.Edwards free ascent shortly after. Moran used chalk, this was such an issue that some considered the ascent invalid.

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Ultimate E4 ticklist

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
JendeHoxar 8 Sep 2nd
with Flavio
with Flavio
Flavio 8 Sep Lead O/S One of the best E4s I have ever done, even if it has a couple of glued in stainless pegs!
One of the best E4s I have ever done, even if it has a couple of glued in stainless pegs!
Alistair Corbett 7 Sep AltLd Can't really claim much of an ascent here, just lead the last pitch .
with Jaigo, Dom Mackenzie
Can't really claim much of an ascent here, just lead the last pitch .
with Jaigo, Dom Mackenzie
JagoNeath 6 Sep AltLd
Hidden 6 Sep AltLd G/U
jimpopeonarope 25 Aug Lead O/S
with Ben Heason
with Ben Heason
Si Witcher 1 Aug Lead rpt p1 only as stiff warm up.
with Aggie T
p1 only as stiff warm up.
with Aggie T
fatboyslimfast ?? -
Andy Moles 30 Aug, 2018 AltLd Led the pumpy pitch, seconded the tech one. Both very good.
with Ben Silvestre
Led the pumpy pitch, seconded the tech one. Both very good.
with Ben Silvestre
Sophie Nunn 27 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Led P1&2
with Neilaw
Led P1&2
with Neilaw
Hidden 6 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
andyinglis 5 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Lead P1 - sweaty to say the least
with Murdoch Jamieson
Lead P1 - sweaty to say the least
with Murdoch Jamieson
Phil Davidson 28 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S Gear in the top groove? A bolt?
with Dave Greenald
Gear in the top groove? A bolt?
with Dave Greenald
geoff b 4 Aug, 2016 2nd What a contrast: P1 was steep & sustained thuggery which I found hard, whilst P2 was a brilliant exercise in tenous bridging & an awesome traverse which was much more enjoyable. I got to lead the easy finish; phew!
What a contrast: P1 was steep & sustained thuggery which I found hard, whilst P2 was a brilliant exercise in tenous bridging & an awesome traverse which was much more enjoyable. I got to lead the easy finish; phew!
Steve Long 4 Aug, 2016 - 3rd time on this great route. First climbed it in about 1983 with Jon Sylvester
with geoff b
3rd time on this great route. First climbed it in about 1983 with Jon Sylvester
with geoff b
Dan Hale 8 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S Led pitch 2. Unexpectedly brilliant crag and route, thought the approach would be much more difficult than it was.
with Jack Lawledge
Led pitch 2. Unexpectedly brilliant crag and route, thought the approach would be much more difficult than it was.
with Jack Lawledge
Hidden 25 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
JM 22 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
with Steve Sylvester
with Steve Sylvester
dan gibson 12 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
with alice thompson
with alice thompson
dswansonlow 1 Aug, 2015 Lead β On pre-placed gear
with Mike G
On pre-placed gear
with Mike G
dswansonlow 1 Aug, 2015 Lead β On pre-placed gear
with Mike G
On pre-placed gear
with Mike G
Hidden ?Aug, 2015 AltLd
Ewan Russell 11 Jul, 2015 AltLd Fell seconding the start bit. Lead second!
with Brad
Fell seconding the start bit. Lead second!
with Brad
breed 11 Jul, 2015 AltLd
Tom Livingstone 24 Aug, 2014 Lead rpt Led P1
with TS
Led P1
with TS
nathanlee 27 Jun, 2014 2nd β Rob led on one big pitch. Bridging isn't my forte.
with Rob Greenwood
Rob led on one big pitch. Bridging isn't my forte.
with Rob Greenwood
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 27 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S Led in a single pitch, definitely the way to do it these days - get to the 'Mini Finish' then abseil off. Mega.
Led in a single pitch, definitely the way to do it these days - get to the 'Mini Finish' then abseil off. Mega.
tim newton 21 Jun, 2014 Lead G/U Rachel got half way up pitch 1 but came down, so I pulled the ropes and tried it, but fell off low down because of a silly slip, lowered back down to the ground and then lead pitch 1 clean second go. I also lead pitch 2 which I found hard, but absolutely brilliant. Rachel lead pitch 3. A really great route
Rachel got half way up pitch 1 but came down, so I pulled the ropes and tried it, but fell off low down because of a silly slip, lowered back down to the ground and then lead pitch 1 clean second go. I also lead pitch 2 which I found hard, but absolutely brilliant. Rachel lead pitch 3. A really great route
Rachel Slater 21 Jun, 2014 AltLd RP Tried to lead the first pitch but didn't want to commit so tim did it then I just lead the last one. Cool climb but pretty hard!
Tried to lead the first pitch but didn't want to commit so tim did it then I just lead the last one. Cool climb but pretty hard!
dominic o 14 Jun, 2014 Lead Outstanding route - but be aware that the fixed gear is in a poor state with the exception of the belays and the one shiny stainless staple on P2. The rest of it is rotting stumps which do little more than mark the way. Strictly space-walking!
Outstanding route - but be aware that the fixed gear is in a poor state with the exception of the belays and the one shiny stainless staple on P2. The rest of it is rotting stumps which do little more than mark the way. Strictly space-walking!
The old James turnbull 28 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
with mike
with mike
willoates 28 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S I did pitch 1, which has some hard climbing at the start (of say hard 5c, maybe 6a). will did pitch 2 which was amazing... One of the best bits of climbing I have done for A while, it's a shame it isn't longer.
with Will Sim
I did pitch 1, which has some hard climbing at the start (of say hard 5c, maybe 6a). will did pitch 2 which was amazing... One of the best bits of climbing I have done for A while, it's a shame it isn't longer.
with Will Sim
Duncan Campbell 29 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S Just P1. Ollie put in a good effort up to small roof but wasn't in the right head space after hard week at work. Que the unfit punter who just managed to get his way to the belay riding a wave of lactic!! On arriving at the belay Ollie wasn't mega keen for P2 and wanted to bail. Gotta go back. Very sustained. Threw a heel on at one point!
with Ollie Cain
Just P1. Ollie put in a good effort up to small roof but wasn't in the right head space after hard week at work. Que the unfit punter who just managed to get his way to the belay riding a wave of lactic!! On arriving at the belay Ollie wasn't mega keen for P2 and wanted to bail. Gotta go back. Very sustained. Threw a heel on at one point!
with Ollie Cain
Luke Brooks 16 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Sophie
with Sophie
soph 16 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
Jack Geldard ??, 2012 -
LRob ??, 2012 Lead
gregoritos 10 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S P2
with Dougie Hall
P2
with Dougie Hall
Tom Livingstone 22 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S Led P2
Led P2
Alex Mason 22 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S Led P1. Both great (f6c) pitches, but the top of the groove on P2 is amazing. Did the mini finish too which is cool, probably 5c.
Led P1. Both great (f6c) pitches, but the top of the groove on P2 is amazing. Did the mini finish too which is cool, probably 5c.
Hidden 6 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
Boy 6 Aug, 2011 Lead
with Ed Brown
with Ed Brown
Hidden 4 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
Rob Pitt 3 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
with Lee Roberts
with Lee Roberts
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
GeoffG ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
middlevern 9 Aug, 2009 2nd
Toby Dunn 9 Aug, 2009 Lead
with Nick Verney
with Nick Verney
nige 21 Jun, 2009 AltLd
Hidden 21 Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S
Mark Riley 26 Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S
Si Witcher 26 Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S Two great pitches. New staple at the belay between p1 and p2, another halfway up the groove on P2.
Two great pitches. New staple at the belay between p1 and p2, another halfway up the groove on P2.
jeffmcd56 ??, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Wez
with Wez
Hidden 15 Sep, 2007 AltLd rpt
Brown 8 Sep, 2007 AltLd
with Max
with Max
Hidden ??, 2006 -
accynez ??, 1999 Lead
sharpie ?Oct, 1998 AltLd O/S
with PL
with PL
sadams 17 Aug, 1996 AltLd
with John Boyle
with John Boyle
Mike_d78 10 Aug, 1996 AltLd O/S
with ste_d
with ste_d
ste_d 1 Aug, 1996 AltLd O/S
innes ??, 1996 Lead O/S
with Craig
with Craig
Steve Crowe ??, 1996 Lead rpt circa 1996
with karin
circa 1996
with karin
crossleysm ?Sep, 1995 AltLd O/S
with Paul Henderson
with Paul Henderson
keefe ??, 1995 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??, 1995 -
with keefe
with keefe
Roget 9 Jul, 1994 Lead O/S
with jon
with jon
Brian Wilderspin 17 Jul, 1993 AltLd rpt
with Perric Crellin
with Perric Crellin
pete johnson 12 May, 1993 AltLd O/S
with Brian Wilderspin
with Brian Wilderspin
Brian Wilderspin 12 May, 1993 AltLd O/S
richparry ??, 1992 -
Stoney Boy 30 Aug, 1991 Lead O/S
with Rob Harrison
with Rob Harrison
Steve Crowe 7 Jul, 1990 2nd O/S
with Niff
with Niff
Greg Cunningham 1 Jun, 1990 AltLd
with andy cave
with andy cave
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
Seymore Butt ??, 1990 2nd
with Dave Barton
with Dave Barton
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
keefe ??, 1990 -
Eduardo Martinez ??, 1990 Lead O/S
Nick Biven ??, 1990 -
ajtay ??, 1990 Lead dnf Abbed off in rain after pitch one
with Alan Thomson
Abbed off in rain after pitch one
with Alan Thomson
Hidden 3 Sep, 1989 2nd β
Bob 30 May, 1989 2nd O/S A cold and breezy day, a complete contrast to the day before on Hunger.
with D. Lampard, al phizacklea
A cold and breezy day, a complete contrast to the day before on Hunger.
with D. Lampard, al phizacklea
Neil McA 21 Aug, 1988 Lead O/S Great route, a full blooded E3 at the time.
with Martin Mandel
Great route, a full blooded E3 at the time.
with Martin Mandel
Hidden ??, 1988 AltLd
UKB Shark ??, 1988 Lead
William Robertson ??, 1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Hidden 9 Sep, 1983 Lead
Mike Owen 29 Aug, 1979 Lead O/S
with John Roberts
with John Roberts
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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 16
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 16
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set