37m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fantastic and varied route, with a pumpy first pitch that leads to a stunning climax in the upper groove. Start to the left of a grotty pillar, by a small cave.
1) 5c, 22m. Climb the awkward crack out of the cave and step right onto the wall above a thread. Go up to a roof (peg) then right again and up a bulging groove. Move right to the foot of another groove and climb this moving left at the top to a stance. Bolt belay.
2) 6a,15m. Move left to the black groove and climb it past a bolt. At the break traverse right to a belay. Abseil off or...
3) 5b,10m. Move up left into a corner then up to a peg. Move left again and finish direct. Belay well back. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
One of the finest routes of its grade in the country - sustained and spectacular, building in to a stunning climax in the upper groove. Start to the left of a grotty pillar, by a small cave.

FA (aid) R.Edwards, N.Metcalf, T.Jepson 11.10.75. Ayear later J.Moran andP.Williams freed the 2nd pitch after using 1pt aid on the 1st. R.Edwards free ascent shortly after. Moran used chalk, this was such an issue that some considered the ascent invalid.

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Ultimate E4 ticklist.

Phil Davidson 28/Jul Lead O/S

Gear in the top groove? A bolt?

with Dave Greenald
geoff b 04/Aug/16 2nd

What a contrast: P1 was steep & sustained thuggery which I found hard, whilst P2 was a brilliant exercise in tenous bridging & an awesome traverse which was much more enjoyable. I got to lead the easy finish; phew!

Steve Long 04/Aug/16 -

3rd time on this great route. First climbed it in about 1983 with Jon Sylvester

Dan724 08/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 2. Unexpectedly brilliant crag and route, thought the approach would be much more difficult than it was.

with Jack Lawledge
Hidden 25/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
JM 22/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Steve Sylvester
dan gibson 12/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
with alice thompson
dswansonlow 01/Aug/15 Lead β

On pre-placed gear

with Mike G
dswansonlow 01/Aug/15 Lead β

On pre-placed gear

with Mike G
Hidden ?/Aug/15 AltLd
Ewan Russell 11/Jul/15 AltLd

Fell seconding the start bit. Lead second!

with Brad
breed 11/Jul/15 AltLd
Tom Livingstone 24/Aug/14 Lead rpt

Led P1

nathanlee 27/Jun/14 2nd β

Rob led on one big pitch. Bridging isn't my forte.

with Rob Greenwood
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 27/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Led in a single pitch, definitely the way to do it these days - get to the 'Mini Finish' then abseil off. Mega.

tim newton 21/Jun/14 Lead G/U

Rachel got half way up pitch 1 but came down, so I pulled the ropes and tried it, but fell off low down because of a silly slip, lowered back down to the ground and then lead pitch 1 clean second go. I also lead pitch 2 which I found hard, but absolutely brilliant. Rachel lead pitch 3. A really great route

Rachel Slater 21/Jun/14 AltLd RP

Tried to lead the first pitch but didn't want to commit so tim did it then I just lead the last one. Cool climb but pretty hard!

dominic o 14/Jun/14 Lead

Outstanding route - but be aware that the fixed gear is in a poor state with the exception of the belays and the one shiny stainless staple on P2. The rest of it is rotting stumps which do little more than mark the way. Strictly space-walking!

Nick Biven ??/2014 -
The old James turnbull 28/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with mike
willoates 28/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

I did pitch 1, which has some hard climbing at the start (of say hard 5c, maybe 6a). will did pitch 2 which was amazing... One of the best bits of climbing I have done for A while, it's a shame it isn't longer.

with Will Sim
Duncan Campbell 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Just P1. Ollie put in a good effort up to small roof but wasn't in the right head space after hard week at work. Que the unfit punter who just managed to get his way to the belay riding a wave of lactic!! On arriving at the belay Ollie wasn't mega keen for P2 and wanted to bail. Gotta go back. Very sustained. Threw a heel on at one point!

with Ollie Cain
Luke Brooks 16/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
with Sophie
soph 16/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Jack Geldard ??/2012 -
LRob ??/2012 Lead
gregoritos 10/Sep/11 Lead O/S


with Dougie Hall
Tom Livingstone 22/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Led P2

Alex Mason 22/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Led P1. Both great (f6c) pitches, but the top of the groove on P2 is amazing. Did the mini finish too which is cool, probably 5c.

edinbed 06/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

With Jon Fullwood. Totally justifies its inclusion.

Boy 06/Aug/11 Lead
with Ed Brown
Hidden 04/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Rob Pitt 03/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Lee Roberts
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
GeoffG ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
middlevern 09/Aug/09 2nd
Toby Dunn 09/Aug/09 Lead
with Nick Verney
Rich Kirby 21/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Ace! Very satisfying as it drizzled all day - back of the net!

with Nige
Mark Riley 26/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
switch 26/Jul/08 AltLd O/S

Two great pitches. New staple at the belay between p1 and p2, another halfway up the groove on P2.

jeffmcd56 ??/2008 AltLd O/S
with Wez
Hidden 15/Sep/07 AltLd rpt
Brown 08/Sep/07 AltLd
with Max
Hidden ??/2006 -
sharpie ?/Oct/98 AltLd O/S
with PL
sadams 17/Aug/96 AltLd
with John Boyle
nokishatov 10/Aug/96 AltLd O/S
ste_d 01/Aug/96 AltLd O/S
with mik
innes ??/1996 Lead O/S
with Craig
Steve Crowe ??/1996 Lead rpt

circa 1996

with KM
crossleysm ?/Sep/95 AltLd O/S
with Paul Henderson
keefe ??/1995 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
with keefe
Roget 09/Jul/94 Lead O/S
with jon
richparry ??/1992 -
Stoney Boy 30/Aug/91 Lead O/S
with Rob Harrison
Steve Crowe 07/Jul/90 2nd O/S
with Niff
Greg Cunningham 01/Jun/90 -
Seymore Butt ??/1990 -
with Dave Barton
keefe ??/1990 -
Eduardo Martinez ??/1990 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1990 Lead dnf
Hidden 03/Sep/89 2nd β
Bob 30/May/89 2nd O/S

A cold and breezy day, a complete contrast to the day before on Hunger.

with D. Lampard, al phizacklea
Hidden ??/1988 AltLd
ukb & bmc shark ??/1988 Lead
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
jon 09/Sep/83 Lead
with H
Mike Owen 29/Aug/79 Lead O/S
with John Roberts
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High E5
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Votes cast 13
Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
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