Rockfax Description
A decent sport route. Start at the top of a red ledge, above a grotty pillar, by a belay bolt. Follow the resin bolts upwards to the belay of New Dimensions. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A stunning new sport route which has already become a classic. Start at the top of a red ledge above a grotty pillar. By a belay bolt. Follow the resin bolts upwards to the belay of New Dimensions, abseil off.

S.Lee, H.Lancashire. Named because they didn't see the restriction sign. The route was climbed by all the locals before they knew whos route it was. May/1996

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales Limestone Sport 7s.


ClimberDateStyle
Ed Booth 16/Sep Lead rpt
Ed Booth 12/Sep Lead β
Adam Booth 12/Sep Lead O/S

Brilliant route!

Phil Davidson 24/Aug Lead RP
with Edward Crossland, Dave Greenald
FreddieSmith ?/Aug Lead RP
jonleighton 03/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Amazing crux move (and the rest of it was great too)

Hidden 11/Sep/16 Lead RP
Kev Little 10/Sep/16 Lead RP
with Pete Shepherd
Hidden ??/2016 -
Dan724 10/Sep/15 Lead RP

Best 7b in the UK so far!

with Euan Patterson
Adam Lincoln 21/Aug/15 Lead β
with Mick Lovatt
dan gibson 12/Aug/15 Lead β
with alice thompson
breed 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Really good.

Hidden 04/Jul/15 Lead RP
Luke Owens 01/Jul/15 Lead dog

100% humidity, 100% grease! Amazing continental style route!

munch88 01/Jul/15 TR dog

So greasy and humid awesome route

dswansonlow 06/Aug/14 Lead RP
shed_hed 06/Aug/14 Lead RP

Stunning route! Got it clean to the moves just after the rest which stopped me in my tracks. After working that out I got it clean to the lower off. Loved the final top moves just before the jugs - so good! Practiced the top section on top rope and then got it clean first red point attempt. 7b+ to onsight but 7b with clips in and beta/second go.

soph 16/Aug/12 Lead

almost

Luke Brooks 14/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Sophie
Bennykr 07/Aug/12 Lead dnf

Got to the in-situ tat then couldnt work out what to do, greasy as slopers!! amazing route/ crag though.

with Duncan
Duncan Campbell 07/Aug/12 Lead dnf

Hard and greasy. Ben put in a mint effort up to the bolt above the thread which is where I got to aswell. Though I didn't get it clean up to there. Awesome crag.

LRob ??/2012 Lead
gregoritos 10/Sep/11 Lead O/S

7b.

with Dougie Hall
schof 17/Aug/11 Lead RP

I can see how some people think this route is only 7b. It is very Spanish in style, big moves between generally good holds. I dropped the flash with masons beta on the last move. However the final boulder problem on the headwall has a short sequence on extremely small sidepulls, i think although soft for the grade of 7b+ moves on holds that small just warrant the grade. A good first 7b+ - One of the best routes on the orme.

with alex mason
Alex Mason 17/Aug/11 Lead β

Outstanding. I don't think the rest detracts from quality. Tried a fortnight ago in shitty, wet conditions and dropped the crux bulge, so ground up ascent. Chuffed to get it after getting insane flash-pump on The Exile.

JM 16/Aug/11 Lead O/S

If you could see the hidden sign it would say "This way to one of the best 7bs on the Orme!".

with Dave Pinnington
edinbed 06/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Simon Lee lets rip and its a belter.

Boy 06/Aug/11 Lead
with Ed Brown
doylo 02/Aug/11 Lead O/S

great continental style route

Toby Dunn 31/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Andy Cave
Ally Smith 21/Jul/11 Lead RP
with Owen, Pete H
Rob Pitt 20/Apr/11 Lead β
with Lee Roberts
ksjs 20/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Very weird indeed: still fatigued after y'day eve's flash pump, bouldered in cave briefly before this but no warm-up route, totally detached but still engaged with the route. Anyway not many days I onsight 7b as a warm-up in the UK (draws in and chalked up so some way down the onsight spectrum). Really good climbing but really didn't feel very much emotion when on it, strange. As close as Pen Trwyn gets to continental sport: tufa and big holds throughout, really suited my style. Never 7b+ in a million years.

with pete
zero six ?/Apr/11 Lead RP
halfmanhalfbiscuit ?/Apr/11 Lead RP

7b and brilliant.

Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
switch 27/Jul/08 Lead RP

7b - a couple of hard moves above a hands-off rest at half-height.

Mark Riley 26/Jul/08 Lead RP
Steve Crowe 02/Aug/98 Lead O/S

Excellent

with KM
sadams 17/Aug/96 Lead RP
with John Boyle
ukb & bmc shark 18/May/96 Lead RP

FA

with Howard Lancashire
innes ??/1996 Lead O/S
with Craig
10 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 18
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Repeated
Not Set