100m, 3 pitches.
Start just right of the gully separating the buttress with this line from the buttress of Reade's Route on the left. Large flakes to belay.
P1. 4 50m From the gully follow a line of open turfy grooves gently rightwards for 25m & then leftwards for 25m to a large stance. The original ascenionists followed a more open rocky groove further right from the initial stance at 5.
P2. 5 30m Move left onto the arête overlooking the gully to a rib with a crack running down it. This leads to a series of awkward flakes & a stance just below the top. It is also possible to climb up behind the obvious pinnacle, right of the arête, from the stance into a groove at 4.
P3. 3 20m Climb a groove to the top, traverse easily towards the ridge of Crib Goch & make an awkward but well protected step down to finish.
P1. 4 50m From the gully follow a line of open turfy grooves gently rightwards for 25m & then leftwards for 25m to a large stance. The original ascenionists followed a more open rocky groove further right from the initial stance at 5.
P2. 5 30m Move left onto the arête overlooking the gully to a rib with a crack running down it. This leads to a series of awkward flakes & a stance just below the top. It is also possible to climb up behind the obvious pinnacle, right of the arête, from the stance into a groove at 4.
P3. 3 20m Climb a groove to the top, traverse easily towards the ridge of Crib Goch & make an awkward but well protected step down to finish.
Owen Samuel & Matt Stygal 29/Nov/2008.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Pete_Frost | 4 Jan, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Pitch 1 would be best going all the way to belay in the huge bay below the final pinnacle. Pitch 2 would be best going up the left hand arete of the pinnacle and onwards all the way to the top. There really is gear whenever it is needed on the final pitch. Tricams would be useful if you don\'t trust spring-loaded camming devices in icy rock. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Pitch 1 would be best going all the way to belay in the huge bay below the final pinnacle. Pitch 2 would be best going up the left hand arete of the pinnacle and onwards all the way to the top. There really is gear whenever it is needed on the final pitch. Tricams would be useful if you don't trust spring-loaded camming devices in icy rock. |
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Route of Interest
Western Gully Direct Finish
Grade: V 5 ***
(Ysgolion Duon (Black Ladders))