UKC

120m, 5 pitches. This is the big classic multi pitch climb of the Costanera cathedral and was the first route on the wall. It has a stunning setting, mysterious history and acrobatic climbing. The original first pitch started by climbing a large tree root. A hurricane killed the tree and the roots are now unsafe. Some bolts have been added for an alternate start, but the first eight metres remail unprotected. Bring two 60 metre ropes.

Pitch 1 - 6 (30 M, 6 bolts) - Climb to the left of the root (soloing, essentially) until you reach the first bolt on a small ledge. Follow cracks leftward to a little cave with a thread and then continue to the bolted belay stations on the ledge above. The old pitons, perlon and carabiner are from an early unrecorded attempt to climb the wall and must not be removed as they are part of Cuba climbing history.

Pitch 2 - 6a+ (25M, 6 Bolts) - Traverse right and climb the far side of the tufa. Belay on the top.

Pitch 3 - 6c (25M, 7 Bolts) - The diagonal crack will bring you to the tufas on the left. Belay on a ledge above.

Pitch 4 - 7a (25M, 7 Bolts) - Move up and right from the anchors. Climb a bouldery face section before reaching the tufas that bring you to the base of the roof.

Pitch 5 - 7b (15M, 8 Bolts) - Climb the left side of the roof and enjoy the exposure. Note that the 4th and 5th pitch can be liked at 7b+ with 15 quickdraws and some long slings to reduce rope drags. This avoids the hanging belay.

Descent - Leave a tag line clipped to the third belay station to pull back in from the top of pitch 5. From here a 60 metre rope rappel leads to the anchor on the first pitch. One more rappel leads to the ground.

Craig Luebben, Cameron Cross & Armando Menocal 2000.

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Route of Interest
Contigo en la Distancia

Grade: 7b ***
(Cueva Larga)

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