60m, 2 pitches. At the left hand side of the buttress and left of the prominent overhang is a tree. This route takes the obvious corner above this with initial moves over large overhanging blocks.
1. 25m 4c Climb the corner directly then beyond a little to where it runs out. Belay at an obvious cut holly tree under the large overhang.
2. 25m 5b Climb the off width crack (as for Jamaica Plain) to the roof, traverse right under the roof to a ledge. From the far end of the ledge, climb straight up to Burnt Ledge.
Most parties continue up Burnt Ledge to the top of the crag

G Sexton, Con Moriarty 25/Aug/1990

Ticklists: Ireland 3 Star E1-E2.


ClimberDateStyle
davkeo 07/Oct AltLd O/S

What a route! I convinced Anni to do this last climb before it got dark & she was cursing me in at least 2 languages. She had an awkward battle on p1. First to get past a spiked holy tree & then negotiating some vegetation above. 'Shit pitch' were her exact words. P2 is amazing with some super moves through an overhanging off width & then a very airy traverse under a big roof. The small cams under the roof are far back and need to be extended on a long sling to reduce drag. This adds to the sense of exposure as u delicately tip toe ur way across the face going some distance before reaching positive holds. The face above is still thoughtful balancey climbing and with the unavoidable bit of rope drag trying to pull you back. Topped out in the fading light & abbed down in the dark. The pitch of the w/e.

annihuovinen 07/Oct AltLd O/S

I did p1, dave p2. First pitch probably most awkward climb I've ever done :D but, absolutely well worth the second pitch. Finished just before it got dark, abbing down with head torches. Great route all in all.

Hidden ?/May/15 Lead
GOS 06/Apr/15 2nd rpt

I led 1st pitch Jamaica plain, Vicky 2nd pitch 7th Heaven;I continued on to top of crag

with Vicky Cleary
Hidden 01/Apr/12 2nd
mickd ??/2012 Lead O/S
richardcreagh ?/May/10 Lead O/S
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