550m, 9 pitches.
pitch 1 & pitch 2: 70meters (4c). Face climbing and discontinuous cracks, good pro, ends on a big bivy ledge
pitch 3: Starts with a really nice wide crack with lots of features (piton out right at the top of the large flake is just a distraction, dont clip this, instead go left and find easier protected terrain), you'll then commence into a fine corner crack in a left facing corner, then continue over easy ground to another big bivy ledge.
pitch 4: (5b) money pitch- beautiful clean face with shallow cracks, lots of techy slab movement. Well protected.
pitch 5: starts with Right angling splitter, then a long bivy ledge followed by a wide crack.
pitch 6: (5b)(alternative steep hand crack out Left): Right option was 30 meters of slab with discontinuous cracks culminating in a slightly loose corner.
pitch 7: starting on large bivy ledge, walk far right around the arete and find a right facing corner. then you pop out on large ledge, from this ledge you can see a large homemade piton about 30 feet off the deck. Not a lot of protection, Eventually cut again around the right arete where you'll find more pro as you finish out this pitch
pitch 8: short pitch, 5.easy
pitch 9: follows right side of the ridge, lots of balancing, lots of random homemade pitons / bolts. Then eases off for about 10m.
Descent: Either a long walk off heading left from the summit and down onto the glacier of Semonova Tiansanskova, cut down a gully to the path. Alternatively; ab from the top of pitch 6 (bring spare tat)
pitch 3: Starts with a really nice wide crack with lots of features (piton out right at the top of the large flake is just a distraction, dont clip this, instead go left and find easier protected terrain), you'll then commence into a fine corner crack in a left facing corner, then continue over easy ground to another big bivy ledge.
pitch 4: (5b) money pitch- beautiful clean face with shallow cracks, lots of techy slab movement. Well protected.
pitch 5: starts with Right angling splitter, then a long bivy ledge followed by a wide crack.
pitch 6: (5b)(alternative steep hand crack out Left): Right option was 30 meters of slab with discontinuous cracks culminating in a slightly loose corner.
pitch 7: starting on large bivy ledge, walk far right around the arete and find a right facing corner. then you pop out on large ledge, from this ledge you can see a large homemade piton about 30 feet off the deck. Not a lot of protection, Eventually cut again around the right arete where you'll find more pro as you finish out this pitch
pitch 8: short pitch, 5.easy
pitch 9: follows right side of the ridge, lots of balancing, lots of random homemade pitons / bolts. Then eases off for about 10m.
Descent: Either a long walk off heading left from the summit and down onto the glacier of Semonova Tiansanskova, cut down a gully to the path. Alternatively; ab from the top of pitch 6 (bring spare tat)
Shvab.A 1980.
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Route of Interest
Bug's Delight
Grade: E1 5c ***
(Chunkurchak Gorge)