Rockfax Description
III, 1000m, 5 - 6 hours. A fun route which is quite popular when word gets out that conditions are good. Follow the Eugster Diagonal for 50m past where it branches left.
Approach - From the Plan de l'Aiguille, follow the path south towards the Glacier des PĂ©lerins. The path ends up on a moraine ridge with the Glacier on the right and the west face of the Aiguille du Peigne on the left. Follow the path up the moraine ridge and where it drifts left towards the Peigne Normal Route head directly towards the Tournier Spur. For the Frendo Spur, follow the path up the moraine ridge and then cross the glacier where the path runs out above Pointe 2468 and head directly for the spur. There is some serac and rockfall danger on the final section of the approach and at the start of the route, so get established on the initial ramp before stopping for a drink! For the Eugster routes, continue traversing to the next snowy bay. The Eugster Diagonal begins from here.
1) Traverse right to reach the snowfield and climb this to its top right corner via some 55 degree snow.
2) Step left and climb the gully in two excellent icy pitches.
3) Move left at the top of these and climb a short icy wall to a small snowfield.
4) Easier but still enjoyable mixed climbing leads to a ridge. Follow this leftwards over some fun moderate terrain to reach the final snow slopes of the Mallory-Porter and finish up this. © Rockfax

Hidden 16/Oct/16 Solo O/S
Hidden 08/May/16 AltLd
Hidden 08/May/16 AltLd O/S
Dave Searle 15/Apr/11 -
Hidden 11/Apr/11 AltLd
Hidden 11/Apr/11 AltLd
David Horwood 20/Apr/07 -
Hidden ?/Apr/07 Lead
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