Rockfax Description
II, 200m, 2 - 3 hours. This delightful traverse can be done in both directions. It is easier from north to south but not as good.
Approach - From the Helbronner lift, descend slightly to the Col du Géant and gently climb to the foot of the ridge.
1) Approach the south end of the ridge and join it by climbing low-angled mixed ground just to the right of the most northerly summit.
2) 5a. Having joined the ridge follow it briefly to a small (5m) wall, which is climbed with difficulty (5a) to a peg belay. Easier looking ground lies to the left of this wall, but the rock is poor and not recommended.
3) Follow the ridge crest in a spectacular position, paying attention to some loose blocks. The ridge drops away briefly and there is a 20m abseil from a block (abseil cord usually in place).
4) From here the next small summit is climbed via a short, blocky chimney on the left. Continue for 10m along the ridge crest to a 10m abseil down a slab on the west side of the ridge. It is possible to join the ridge here in order to avoid the 5a wall.
5) 4a. Follow the ridge crest easily, and turn the first small tower on the left. The second tower is climbed initially on the left for 5m, and then a slab/corner on the crest (4a). This tower can be avoided by going right, but this relies on snow cover.
6) 4b. The final ridge is straightforward and extremely aesthetic. The east ridge branches off 20m before the summit, but it is well worth tagging the top before descending this, although the final move is worth 4b. The summit is spectacular, and there is usually abseil tat to allow the final moves to be descended safely.
Descent - Retrace the final 20m of the ascent route, and turn left down the east ridge. Follow this on the crest (easier with more snow) in an exposed position down towards the Col de Rochefort. There is a short rocky step near the end of the ridge which may often require a 7m abseil. From the Col de Rochefort, walk back to the Rifugio Torino or Helbronner lift (45 minutes). © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Ascend south ridge, descend east ridge.


ClimberDateStyle
Hidden 14/Sep -
l21bjd 07/Sep -

Jagged Globe techniques 2. North to south, without the 5a section. Hannah led the initial wall, then let myself and another client move together whilst she soloed alongside. Hannah sorted the abs over the bergschrund and down the steeper section to the glacier. Pleasant route. Very dry, but seemed ok keeping to the crest.

anyarjones 05/Sep -

Climbed with Rebecca Bryan on day 2 of our alpine climbing instruction. Jeff Banks guiding/instructing. Led all of the rock and much of the walking. Bring lots of double slings (~4-6), four cams (Metolius orange, BD purple green red yellow), and few medium nuts.

Cillian 25/Aug -

Moved together -Very dry with a lot of very loose rock - enjoyable but potentially dangerous route

Felicity Eperon 22/Aug -
Hidden 12/Aug AltLd
Jo sumner 12/Aug Lead
steve_gibbs 02/Aug AltLd O/S
with Tom, Max Streeton
Hidden 02/Aug AltLd O/S
hetty.key 29/Jul AltLd
Camric 13/Jul AltLd O/S
with Toby Floyer
RuthW 12/Jul AltLd
ijsbeer 12/Jul -

Flo Vogel Halverwege omgedraaid

seanhendo123 04/Jul AltLd O/S

Moved together, Alan taking the crux, on route to dent du geant

with Alan
mchardski 04/Jul AltLd

south to North I lead the 5a section in big boots

Tim Sparrow ?/Jul -

Cold and windy. Opted out of the 5a wall as a consequence, the easier ground to the left is not so bad.

with Geoff Thomas
janegallwey 30/Jun AltLd O/S
James.houghton 23/Jun 2nd dnf

The route is completely dry, making it hard to move together over the harder sections. Made it past the slab corner and then bailed down a gully to make the last lift back to Chamonix.

mattdennies 23/Jun AltLd O/S

Got Helbronner lift across from Midi. 5a section was nails, not sure if this was because it was completely dry or trying to climb it in big boots, had to pull on two bits of gear. Rest of ridge was completely dry except for top of gully after second ab which was full of very wet snow you couldn't stand up on. Bailed down very loose and chossy gully about half way along as it was taking too long due to pitching sections that felt harder than expected. Made it from bottom of route to lift station in 15 mins, made last lift back to midi by 5 minutes. One to come back and do when it's seen some snow I think.

with Scottish Ian, James.houghton
Bargate_Champ 23/Jun AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/Jun AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Jun Lead O/S
Fenda 29/Mar -
Shea 11/Dec/16 -

Great day out, first alpine route :D chair lifts are cheating

with Jono
Hidden 08/Oct/16 Lead
chris smith 07/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Hard 5a section and loose approach spoilt the route. A little boring after the first part of the ridge is complete.

OrphusBoi 06/Sep/16 2nd
with Chris Smith
EuanM 29/Aug/16 Lead

Full traverse was out due to rockfall. Reversed the north ridge which was still enjoyable.

wchan 24/Jul/16 -
Naomi.P 04/Jul/16 AltLd
with Leo H
leopolian 04/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Started at 5am with a nice short approach after a less than ideal night's sleep. Moved together for most of the ridge which felt quite simple most of the time. Think we managed to avoid a lot of the trickier rock sections by mistake which took away some of the interest.

Sarah Roscoe 04/Jul/16 AltLd
with Matt Hs
Hidden 02/Jul/16 AltLd
Hidden 02/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Nesa 27/Jun/16 -
with L. Muirhead, B. Bradford (Guide)
Nemo9 21/Jun/16 -

Nice route for a rainy afternoon!

with Col
Rory Southworth 09/Jun/16 -
Jenn_Stretton 13/Mar/16 AltLd
DaveThexton 13/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/15 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jun/15 AltLd
dauwhe 12/Sep/14 -
with Adam George
Bristol_Quornstar 05/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
with Paolo Intropido
Danbow73 24/Jul/14 -
gingerbex 24/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Dan Bow
ben.phillips 11/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
RoscoJB 04/Jul/14 AltLd

Moving together

Hidden 03/Jul/14 Lead
johnrich 18/Jun/14 2nd
JHolland 18/Dec/13 -
Dave McKechnie 27/Aug/13 -
with Amy Green
Hidden 02/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
masmith 02/Jul/13 AltLd
with Camilla Mapstone, Joanna Smith
Avinash Aujayeb 22/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with James Thacker
Hidden 03/Aug/12 AltLd
BoulderyDave 03/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Nice route. Not obvious how to rap at the end but a good few hours out.

Andy Hewison 25/Jul/12 -

Easy day, cable car to Helbronner, had a nice little technical climb to get onto the ridge. Easy ridge then dropped down into Col de Rochfort. Had to wait a couple of hours for the cable car back!

with Vince, Fred
steveprice.exmouth 09/Jul/12 AltLd
Steve Woollard 09/Jul/12 AltLd
K Mckay 14/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
industrialiceman 27/Jun/11 -
stevev ??/2011 -
yashvi 25/Jun/10 AltLd
Hidden 20/Jul/09 -
CGlennie ?/Aug/08 -
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