9 pitches. Extremely impressive line (especially from a distance), with excellently varied and atmospheric climbing throughout. Generally good quality rock but some brittle rock on pitch 6 in particular. Good but sometimes very spaced bolts (circa 10m apart in places). Good cam placements to be found in the off-width crack (pitch 4) and thin crack (pitch 6). Pitch 7 had no obvious natural pro, being armed with only 3 bolts across 40m of slab climbing. Fantastic views from the summit on a sunny day, with a quick and easy 3 abseil and pleasant path descent.

Stutte and Magdefrau 1981

Helen Gibson 10/Nov/17 AltLd O/S

No. 1 camalot for first move up off width (pitch 4) Used one or two medium to large wires above this. Brilliant day out. Double bolt belays now on all pitches. Took a day to dry after rain and even then first two pitches still damp.

with Graham Hoey
DrGav 17/May/11 AltLd

Fantastic route. Took an exciting (and happily totally safe) fall from the top of pitch 6 when a pebble broke.

with Dave, Wendy
David Martin 17/May/11 AltLd O/S

Does what it says on the tin. 9 pitches of wonderful and varied climbing, with stunning views back out over UNESCO World Heritage sites. Yes, its run out in places, but bolted where needed.

with Wendy, DrGav
Hidden ??/2011 -
Andreas Christidis 04/Aug/08 Lead O/S

It was rated to be V+ back in '81, but the offwidth crack / chimney at the beginning of the 4th pitch felt more difficult to me. The 3rd and 4th pitch can / should be climbed as one in order to just clip the 3rd belay and don't risk a fall in the belay. There are a good placements for friends and nuts in some pitches.

with Yvonne E.
Julesthe1st 01/Jun/08 AltLd

Lead all pitches. Still a memorable route after several years.

with Alex Stripp
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Votes cast 4
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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