28m. Formerly HVS, but the route shed a block from just above the overlap; the crux move is now much harder. About 10m left of the Withyhill Cave entrance is a prominent arched overlap: start under the centre of this. Climb the slab, crossing a left-rising diagonal crack (which, disappointingly, spits out nuts) to the overlap. With a runner on the sapling on the left, step up and place small wires above the overlap; then pull over with difficulty. Easy climbing leads to the narrow terrace. Belay on saplings a further 8m up the easy but very loose ground behind the narrow terrace, or continue to the top.
(Reclimbed 22.8.11 at the new grade of E1 5c by B Mullan, C Lindley, M Davies).

J Moyle, P Robertson 11/Jun/2011

Feedback

UserDateNotes
norris.dan 19 May Show βeta
βeta: The quality of the rock isn't great here. A crimp broke off on the leftwards crack on the initial slab and what felt like a key hold broke off the overlap and I fell. It's still doable and re-did ground up. BETA -- Not sure if this now affects the grade but it's now a side pull instead of a jug. The top of the overlap now doesn't seem to take any nuts either like the guidebook suggests (offset or normal). So double cams (purple and black totem) at the base of the overlap seemed to only do it. The quality of the rock at the top after the second overlap is incredibly unstable and we had to clear a number of loose rocks to make it safe for the second. Be careful out there guys.
 
Show beta
βeta: The quality of the rock isn't great here. A crimp broke off on the leftwards crack on the initial slab and what felt like a key hold broke off the overlap and I fell. It's still doable and re-did ground up. BETA -- Not sure if this now affects the grade but it's now a side pull instead of a jug. The top of the overlap now doesn't seem to take any nuts either like the guidebook suggests (offset or normal). So double cams (purple and black totem) at the base of the overlap seemed to only do it. The quality of the rock at the top after the second overlap is incredibly unstable and we had to clear a number of loose rocks to make it safe for the second. Be careful out there guys.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Issy 25 Jul 2nd
Paulos87 25 Jul Lead Nice move over overlap, but very loose after. Not really worth it
with Issy
Nice move over overlap, but very loose after. Not really worth it
with Issy
norris.dan 18 May Lead G/U YES, second e1 today. Progression coming along well. The overlap didn't actually feel that bad it was the loose rock which was really unnerving.
with glilje
YES, second e1 today. Progression coming along well. The overlap didn't actually feel that bad it was the loose rock which was really unnerving.
with glilje
Hidden 21 Apr Lead dnf
BBEENN 16 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
MoWalker3 31 Jul, 2016 TR dnf had a look at the rock fall (and kicked some big stuff off it). This route will need some more work to make it (FCQ)safe.
with shunt
had a look at the rock fall (and kicked some big stuff off it). This route will need some more work to make it (FCQ)safe.
with shunt
Paul Baller 25 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
with matt stevens
with matt stevens
Matt Amos 6 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
with Sam O
with Sam O
riddle 12 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S Serious rock fall to the right on the overlap, this route seems okay. Top section loose as described.
with TonyQ
Serious rock fall to the right on the overlap, this route seems okay. Top section loose as described.
with TonyQ
TimCul 29 Jun, 2014 2nd
will_benfold 29 Jun, 2014 Lead dog Committed to the hard move, only to discover that a cam on the back of my harness had attached itself to the sapling :(
with TimCul
Committed to the hard move, only to discover that a cam on the back of my harness had attached itself to the sapling :(
with TimCul
Tristypants 17 Mar, 2014 Lead Grunty hard move! Did with terrible style!
with Bec Chalkley
Grunty hard move! Did with terrible style!
with Bec Chalkley
Hidden 17 Mar, 2014 2nd
gilmourheid 9 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S Skipped the chossy loose shite after the hard bits.
with Steve27
Skipped the chossy loose shite after the hard bits.
with Steve27
bpmclimb 22 Aug, 2011 Lead β Repeat lead, after removal of the useful but dangerously loose block. We think the hard move is now 5c, and the overall grade E1, assuming the continued presence of the slabby block above the overlap which furnishes both small wire placements and holds. It seems solidly attached at the moment.
Repeat lead, after removal of the useful but dangerously loose block. We think the hard move is now 5c, and the overall grade E1, assuming the continued presence of the slabby block above the overlap which furnishes both small wire placements and holds. It seems solidly attached at the moment.
Huntlyfiddler 9 Aug, 2011 2nd
bpmclimb 9 Aug, 2011 Lead dnf Backed off because good hold above overlap was creaking ominously. It's not one of those rattling but cammed in blocks; it's close to actually falling off and therefore needs removing. UPDATE abbed down a few days later and pulled off the block (easily). The move is probably 5b now, and the route E1.
Backed off because good hold above overlap was creaking ominously. It's not one of those rattling but cammed in blocks; it's close to actually falling off and therefore needs removing. UPDATE abbed down a few days later and pulled off the block (easily). The move is probably 5b now, and the route E1.
James Moyle 11 Jun, 2011 Lead RP
Paul Robertson 11 Jun, 2011 2nd O/S
with James Moyle
with James Moyle
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