30m.

Rockfax Description
A fine climb but very polished in places. Climb the front of the buttress, first right up a slippery groove then left up a short V-chimney. Traverse left past a sharp rib and round the arete to climb the steep slab formed by a huge block to good ledges at the base of a slabby arete, or go direct up a wide crack - awkward and HS 4b. Step onto the ridge then 'a cheval' or hand traverse this (poor protection) to the final easy walls and a finish up a short groove. © Rockfax

FA. Henry Bishop 1900

Ticklists

Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Eastern Peak Grit 100 VD- VS, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Hard Grit history

Feedback

UserDateNotes
cmsg 19 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: It may be impossible to fall "à cheval", but why on Earth would one climb it that way? The hand-traverse is simply spectacular, and lends the amazing feeling of being in true mountain terretory. Worth severe, certainly. Shame about the horrible polished ramp at the start.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It may be impossible to fall "à cheval", but why on Earth would one climb it that way? The hand-traverse is simply spectacular, and lends the amazing feeling of being in true mountain terretory. Worth severe, certainly. Shame about the horrible polished ramp at the start.
AndrewHuddart 16 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: IF you fight your way up the chimney then it's diff, up the face is nearer S...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: IF you fight your way up the chimney then it's diff, up the face is nearer S...
alan moore 31 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Yes, it is fairly difficult.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Yes, it is fairly difficult.
EarlyBird 2 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: it IS diff!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: it IS diff!
Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
nigel buckley 5 Oct AltLd dnf
Mr Spoons 16 Jul Lead O/S
lem 6 May 2nd O/S
with Pete
with Pete
Hidden 26 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S
Bede 5 Aug, 2018 Lead
FergusNorrie 5 Aug, 2018 2nd O/S the start is now very strenuous due to the polish.
with Bede
the start is now very strenuous due to the polish.
with Bede
gritstone7 25 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
slab_happy 24 Jul, 2018 2nd Went direct up the wide crack, which was fun.
with Val
Went direct up the wide crack, which was fun.
with Val
Storme 22 Jul, 2018 2nd
with Jake397
with Jake397
Jake397 22 Jul, 2018 Lead
with Storme
with Storme
Elle 15 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
with Carl
with Carl
Carl 15 Jul, 2018 2nd O/S
with Elle
with Elle
alexbooker87 9 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
with Neal Bardy
with Neal Bardy
alasdair.scott 1 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S Removed a scarecrow (presumably thrown from the summit) off this route half way up!
Removed a scarecrow (presumably thrown from the summit) off this route half way up!
Hidden 9 Jun, 2018 2nd rpt
9fingerjon 9 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Weird route, not much protection. A stuffed dummy was wedged in at the bottom of the arête - scared the crap out of me as thought it was a fallen chav!
Weird route, not much protection. A stuffed dummy was wedged in at the bottom of the arête - scared the crap out of me as thought it was a fallen chav!
Hidden 8 May, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2018 Lead O/S
migs493 2 Sep, 2017 Lead rpt
Ben Seeley 5 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
lewiswilson 24 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
matt1024 18 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 18 Jun, 2017 2nd
w-watson 14 May, 2017 2nd
J.E.Spencer 14 May, 2017 Lead G/U Went round the initial crack at the start
Went round the initial crack at the start
emma1987 6 May, 2017 Solo O/S
mister3able 30 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S Climbed the direct crack (HS Variant). Scary stuff.
with Scott Humphries
Climbed the direct crack (HS Variant). Scary stuff.
with Scott Humphries
Andrew Sullivan 15 Apr, 2017 Lead
with wyanp16
with wyanp16
wyanp16 15 Apr, 2017 2nd O/S
Ids1165 ??, 2017 Lead
Flavio 29 Oct, 2016 Solo O/S
suds_01 26 Sep, 2016 Solo O/S
db79 19 Mar, 2016 Lead Did the HS variation. Had issues with the rope getting stuck, just before the easy walls, so set up a belay on a good ledge and did it as a multi pitch. Ali had to finish it in the dark.
Did the HS variation. Had issues with the rope getting stuck, just before the easy walls, so set up a belay on a good ledge and did it as a multi pitch. Ali had to finish it in the dark.
Hidden 11 Jul, 2015 2nd
JonathanJones 17 May, 2015 Lead O/S
with JK
with JK
Hidden 2 May, 2015 Solo rpt
Eddie Shelbourne 2 May, 2015 Solo
with cheque
with cheque
Dave Mason 29 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
with Darren Belfield
with Darren Belfield
Hidden 18 Apr, 2015 2nd
Hidden 16 Apr, 2015 Solo rpt
Hidden 15 Apr, 2015 2nd
Hidden 14 Apr, 2015 Solo rpt
Hidden 9 Apr, 2015 Solo rpt
Nick1812P 27 Mar, 2015 Solo O/S
with amccann
with amccann
amccann 27 Mar, 2015 Solo O/S
Hidden 25 Mar, 2015 Solo rpt
Hidden 27 Sep, 2014 2nd dog
derekwwl 27 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 14 Sep, 2014 Solo rpt
Hidden 11 Sep, 2014 Solo rpt
Matt Smith 24 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 23 Aug, 2014 2nd O/S
Hidden 30 Jul, 2014 Solo rpt
Hidden 15 Jul, 2014 Solo rpt
Hidden 12 Jul, 2014 Lead rpt
Hidden 10 Jul, 2014 Solo rpt
SuperstarDJ 3 Jul, 2014 Lead rpt Did in two pitches for practise. Much easier than last time - I must be learning something.
Did in two pitches for practise. Much easier than last time - I must be learning something.
Hidden 25 Jun, 2014 Solo rpt
Hidden 18 Jun, 2014 Solo rpt
mapperley samurai 14 Jun, 2014 2nd
davidalcock 14 Jun, 2014 Lead
max_chan 12 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
with Sue - PCC
with Sue - PCC
john_ni 12 Jun, 2014 2nd
with Nick (PCC)
with Nick (PCC)
Lancer 12 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S Nice arête climb, although did something a little strange at the top, and think went direct (I.e. Wrong way) as scared the **** out of myself grovelling up a steep face/arête.
with john_ni
Nice arête climb, although did something a little strange at the top, and think went direct (I.e. Wrong way) as scared the **** out of myself grovelling up a steep face/arête.
with john_ni
stevelismore 12 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S Only had one half-rope with us so used it as a single. But placed runners so badly that rope drag stopped me moving past the ridge so had to take a belay there and finish it as a second pitch.
with Katy Mouritz
Only had one half-rope with us so used it as a single. But placed runners so badly that rope drag stopped me moving past the ridge so had to take a belay there and finish it as a second pitch.
with Katy Mouritz
Ali Mortazavi 5 May, 2014 2nd O/S
scott.hill 5 May, 2014 Lead O/S
Mike Soulby 5 May, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 17 Apr, 2014 Solo O/S
Hidden 13 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
IanGilbertJones ??, 2014 -
Matt Cooke 29 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S
with James
with James
DanTT 14 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S P1 = L, P2 = 2
P1 = L, P2 = 2
alan.phobos 14 Sep, 2013 AltLd
with DanTT
with DanTT
Hidden 28 Aug, 2013 Lead RP
Hidden 11 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
Anna Morris 8 Aug, 2013 2nd O/S
MarkCunnington 8 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
tradguy 14 Jul, 2013 2nd O/S
with Rob Munday, Mark Hazell
with Rob Munday, Mark Hazell
lenn1346 9 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
with Matt O
with Matt O
pauldrew 21 Apr, 2013 2nd
with Kevin Sales
with Kevin Sales
Edward Church ??, 2013 Lead O/S
with James Thomas
with James Thomas
Rich Malcolm 13 Sep, 2012 Solo β
Radical-G 28 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S The start is very polished. Protecting the second would prove difficult for a beginner.
The start is very polished. Protecting the second would prove difficult for a beginner.
samdenny 24 Jun, 2012 2nd O/S
Climbster 2 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S
with Leslie
with Leslie
monkeyme2 25 May, 2012 Lead dnf Confuddled me! Eastern Grit show the route going up the crack instead of going left. Couldnt get up crack so left it for Ben L to have a go (he leads VS/HVS) He couldnt get up it either.....
with Ben L (Skipper)
Confuddled me! Eastern Grit show the route going up the crack instead of going left. Couldnt get up crack so left it for Ben L to have a go (he leads VS/HVS) He couldnt get up it either.....
with Ben L (Skipper)
Jonny M 26 Feb, 2012 2nd O/S
with bigmrp
with bigmrp
hfac 26 Feb, 2012 2nd
with Jonny F
with Jonny F
kabutsu ??, 2012 -
pow22 24 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
Robin Nichols 8 Aug, 2011 Solo O/S
Hidden 5 Jun, 2011 2nd dog
John Lewis 5 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 15 May, 2011 Solo O/S
danny3007 17 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
KurtD 23 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S I did the route all in one pitch and tackled the lower crack instead of coming around to the left, messed about here for a good length of time ending up using the crack as a layback felt fun =]
with Alex Pegg
I did the route all in one pitch and tackled the lower crack instead of coming around to the left, messed about here for a good length of time ending up using the crack as a layback felt fun =]
with Alex Pegg
Hidden 24 Oct, 2010 2nd
migs493 22 Oct, 2010 Solo O/S
Josh Maye 16 Oct, 2010 Lead
PaulGreenhead 26 Sep, 2010 Lead Loads of glass everywhere
with Kirsty
Loads of glass everywhere
with Kirsty
Kirsty 26 Sep, 2010 2nd
Bradbury 5 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S HS variation
with Mary Winter
HS variation
with Mary Winter
bigdrew 1 Aug, 2010 2nd In trainers
with Micheal
In trainers
with Micheal
jayray 17 Jul, 2010 Lead
Footy564 16 Jul, 2010 2nd
with sam greggory
with sam greggory
Hidden 3 May, 2010 Lead O/S
Wil Treasure ??, 2010 Lead
MikeDowsett ??, 2010 2nd
with John Harrison
with John Harrison
Simon Caldwell 23 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S Worth it just for the 'a cheval' bit - though I confess to placing a sort-of side runner by walking along the ramp on the right and reaching up. I don't think it would have made any difference, but felt better :-)
with Lemming
Worth it just for the 'a cheval' bit - though I confess to placing a sort-of side runner by walking along the ramp on the right and reaching up. I don't think it would have made any difference, but felt better :-)
with Lemming
Jimb0 ?Aug, 2009 2nd
with Ander
with Ander
Ander ?Aug, 2009 Lead
with Jimb0
with Jimb0
nathanroberts89 ?Jul, 2009 2nd O/S
Hidden 24 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
paulharmer 19 Jun, 2009 Lead
with David Hale
with David Hale
chrisclimber_1986 7 Jun, 2009 2nd O/S
with Luke Lindsay
with Luke Lindsay
Hidden 22 May, 2009 2nd O/S
benman 29 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S Not an awful lot of gear on the top section... and make sure you use double ropes!! Oh, and the tree belay has gone!
with roger m
Not an awful lot of gear on the top section... and make sure you use double ropes!! Oh, and the tree belay has gone!
with roger m
Alfredo ?Mar, 2009 Solo
Ed_Dennett 26 Jan, 2009 2nd Wet and very green.
with Rhys Jenkins
Wet and very green.
with Rhys Jenkins
dhale79 ??, 2009 -
with Paul Harmer
with Paul Harmer
PanzerHanzler 27 Jul, 2008 Solo O/S
lenn1346 1 Jul, 2008 Lead rpt
devonjester 1 Jul, 2008 2nd rpt Made it! Determination a must. Finished by straddling arete as per picture. Wearing shorts, so knees and ankles feeling it today!
Made it! Determination a must. Finished by straddling arete as per picture. Wearing shorts, so knees and ankles feeling it today!
lenn1346 27 Jun, 2008 Lead dnf lead to tree half way up. Lots of rope drag so belayed from there. Colin defeated by the rain so I was lowered off from there.
lead to tree half way up. Lots of rope drag so belayed from there. Colin defeated by the rain so I was lowered off from there.
devonjester 27 Jun, 2008 2nd dnf Justin got to tree then belayed as lots of rope drag. Rain came in; although made it up polished start, couldn't make it up to tree as left jug was full of water and I was out of shape! Lowered off.
Justin got to tree then belayed as lots of rope drag. Rain came in; although made it up polished start, couldn't make it up to tree as left jug was full of water and I was out of shape! Lowered off.
hamish2016 2 May, 2008 2nd O/S
with chris burn
with chris burn
AntiGrav ??, 2008 -
thrutch ??, 2008 -
howlingbaboon 5 Aug, 2007 Lead O/S
Hidden 9 Jul, 2007 Lead O/S
leonjones 23 Jun, 2007 Lead
with Phil Barley
with Phil Barley
lenn1346 25 May, 2007 AltLd rpt I lead 1st pitch. 2nd pitch traversed right to finish direct
with twm
I lead 1st pitch. 2nd pitch traversed right to finish direct
with twm
twm 25 May, 2007 AltLd O/S
lenn1346 14 May, 2007 Lead O/S
devonjester 14 May, 2007 2nd O/S
vvanhinsbergh 6 May, 2007 Lead O/S
with Will Payling
with Will Payling
Hidden ??, 2007 -
djbeaumont 23 Aug, 2006 Lead O/S
with Trace
with Trace
Hidden 23 Aug, 2006 2nd
Swirly 15 Jul, 2006 Lead O/S
with Ceri
with Ceri
duncan 1 Jul, 2006 Solo rpt
SuperstarDJ 6 Jun, 2006 Lead O/S Took about four tries to get onto the route at the very polished bottom! Some nice moves and bits on this route though. Well protected where you want it. Managed to create some ridiculous rope drag, to the extent I could hardly move the rope at the top section. Ended up pulling loads through to effectively solo the 'a cheval' bit. Couldn't seem to get moving on the arete so climbed off and moved along the right side using the chipped holds. Nice route.
with mungo
Took about four tries to get onto the route at the very polished bottom! Some nice moves and bits on this route though. Well protected where you want it. Managed to create some ridiculous rope drag, to the extent I could hardly move the rope at the top section. Ended up pulling loads through to effectively solo the 'a cheval' bit. Couldn't seem to get moving on the arete so climbed off and moved along the right side using the chipped holds. Nice route.
with mungo
mungo 6 Jun, 2006 2nd β a struggle with the initial moves but a most memorable route , wimped out on the cheval moves opting for the hand traverse option instead, Cracking lead from David.
a struggle with the initial moves but a most memorable route , wimped out on the cheval moves opting for the hand traverse option instead, Cracking lead from David.
mol 6 Aug, 2005 2nd
Epic Ebdon 6 Aug, 2005 Lead O/S
with Molly Thompson
with Molly Thompson
SiW ?Aug, 2005 Lead β
Alfredo ?Sep, 2004 Solo
Neil McA 18 May, 2004 Solo O/S
Hidden 16 Sep, 2003 Lead
Chris Murray ?Aug, 2003 -
with Charles MacGreggor
with Charles MacGreggor
Phil West 17 Aug, 2002 Lead O/S
with Chris Tan
with Chris Tan
duncan 12 Aug, 2002 Lead
with Greg Herson
with Greg Herson
Hidden 21 May, 2002 Lead
DerwentDiluted 2 May, 2002 Solo
petekeron ??, 2002 Lead O/S
Alastair Hudson 29 Sep, 2001 Lead
with Clare Young
with Clare Young
Budge 16 Aug, 2001 Lead rpt
with Jan
with Jan
Gman ?Jul, 2001 Lead O/S
with Dan, Eamon
with Dan, Eamon
andybuckley 20 May, 2001 Lead
with Danhan
with Danhan
Rampikino 3 May, 2001 2nd
with Bob Brown
with Bob Brown
Budge 20 Aug, 2000 Lead O/S
with Rich
with Rich
chrishedgehog 17 Jul, 2000 Lead O/S
with Joe Thompson
with Joe Thompson
Laramadness 30 Apr, 2000 Solo O/S
alan moore ??, 2000 -
roncaves 23 May, 1999 Solo
Hidden ?May, 1999 Solo
paul birch 28 Mar, 1999 -
EddieA 8 Nov, 1997 Lead dnf On Peak Rock description is right - it is desperate in the wet!
with Simon W
On Peak Rock description is right - it is desperate in the wet!
with Simon W
Hidden 20 Jul, 1997 2nd
Hidden 29 Jun, 1997 Lead O/S
Roget 17 Aug, 1995 Solo O/S
Martyn ??, 1995 Lead O/S
with Shaun Hodgkins
with Shaun Hodgkins
Marti999 ?Jun, 1994 Solo
with lorna
with lorna
Martyn ??, 1994 Lead O/S
Colin McKerrell ??, 1993 -
Martin Bennett 21 Jun, 1992 Solo
tlr 7 May, 1992 Solo
Hidden 5 Aug, 1990 Lead O/S
craig h 12 Mar, 1990 Solo O/S
Ian Archer 6 Mar, 1990 Lead O/S
with Neil Watson
with Neil Watson
andrew300169 ??, 1990 -
nai ??, 1990 Solo
Hidden ??, 1989 -
morganator ??, 1989 Solo
Iain Thow 16 Jul, 1988 Solo
Hidden ?May, 1987 Lead O/S
Chris the Tall ?Jun, 1986 Solo O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 1983 Lead O/S
Steve Webster ?Jan, 1983 Solo
Adrian Daniels ??, 1983 Solo O/S
Hidden 21 Oct, 1982 Lead O/S
steveb2006 15 Oct, 1982 Solo
RichardMc 26 Jun, 1982 -
with Betty Seifert, Dave Langmead
with Betty Seifert, Dave Langmead
John Brayshaw 3 Jun, 1982 Lead O/S
with Alfreton MC
with Alfreton MC
charlesmfrench 8 Feb, 1982 Solo O/S
Chris Terrey ??, 1982 2nd
with Ken Taylor
with Ken Taylor
Nigel Bond 29 Jun, 1980 Solo
uphillnow ??, 1980 -
Andy Say ??, 1979 Lead
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??, 1979 Lead
MikeDowsett ??, 1978 2nd
mitch1960 ??, 1978 -
Nigel Bond 12 Nov, 1977 Lead
with Tony Cuddy
with Tony Cuddy
Hidden ?Jan, 1977 Lead
rogerskews ??, 1976 -
with CMC Members
with CMC Members
Mark Kemball ??, 1975 Solo
Hidden 26 May, 1974 2nd
mcrtchly ?Aug, 1973 -
tapley 26 Jan, 1969 Lead
mikej 3 Sep, 1967 Lead
with Carl & Ruth, Nigel Sumner
with Carl & Ruth, Nigel Sumner
mikej 2 Sep, 1967 Lead
with Bill & John & Dennis, Nigel Sumner
with Bill & John & Dennis, Nigel Sumner
mikej 15 Jun, 1967 Solo
with Steve Stobart
with Steve Stobart
babymoac ??, 0000 -
13 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
Votes cast 26
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 21
Style of Ascent
Lead
Soloed
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set