Rockfax Description
A fine climb but very polished in places. Climb the front of the buttress, first right up a slippery groove then left up a short V-chimney. Traverse left past a sharp rib and round the arete to climb the steep slab formed by a huge block to good ledges at the base of a slabby arete, or go direct up a wide crack - awkward and HS 4b. Step onto the ridge then 'a cheval' or hand traverse this (poor protection) to the final easy walls and a finish up a short groove. © Rockfax

FA. Henry Bishop 1900

Ticklists: Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Eastern Peak Grit 100 VD- VS, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Hard Grit history.

migs493 02/Sep Lead rpt
Ben Seeley 05/Jul Lead O/S
lewiswilson 24/Jun Lead O/S
matt1024 18/Jun Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jun 2nd
w-watson 14/May 2nd
J.E.Spencer 14/May Lead G/U

Went round the initial crack at the start

emma1987 06/May Solo O/S
mister3able 30/Apr Lead O/S

Climbed the direct crack (HS Variant). Scary stuff.

with Scott Humphries
Andrew Sullivan 15/Apr Lead
wyanp16 15/Apr 2nd O/S
FlavioL1989 29/Oct/16 Solo O/S
suds_01 26/Sep/16 Solo O/S
db79 19/Mar/16 Lead

Did the HS variation. Had issues with the rope getting stuck, just before the easy walls, so set up a belay on a good ledge and did it as a multi pitch. Ali had to finish it in the dark.

David Henchliffe 11/Jul/15 2nd
with Greg Jennings, Jon Harrison
JonathanJones 17/May/15 Lead O/S
with JK
Hidden 02/May/15 Solo rpt
Eddie Shelbourne 02/May/15 Solo
with cheque
Dave Mason 29/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Darren Belfield
Hidden 18/Apr/15 2nd
Hidden 16/Apr/15 Solo rpt
jshields 15/Apr/15 2nd

Repeat, previous solo.

Hidden 14/Apr/15 Solo rpt
Hidden 09/Apr/15 Solo rpt
Nick1812P 27/Mar/15 Solo O/S
with speedy
amccann 27/Mar/15 Solo O/S
with Nick
Hidden 25/Mar/15 Solo rpt
Hidden 27/Sep/14 2nd dog
derekwwl 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Sep/14 Solo rpt
Hidden 11/Sep/14 Solo rpt
Matt Smith 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/14 Solo rpt
Hidden 15/Jul/14 Solo rpt
Hidden 12/Jul/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 10/Jul/14 Solo rpt
SuperstarDJ 03/Jul/14 Lead rpt

Did in two pitches for practise. Much easier than last time - I must be learning something.

Hidden 25/Jun/14 Solo rpt
Hidden 18/Jun/14 Solo rpt
mapperley samurai 14/Jun/14 2nd
davidalcock 14/Jun/14 Lead
max_chan 12/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Sue - PCC
john_ni 12/Jun/14 2nd
with Nick (PCC)
Lancer 12/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Nice arête climb, although did something a little strange at the top, and think went direct (I.e. Wrong way) as scared the **** out of myself grovelling up a steep face/arête.

stevelismore 12/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Only had one half-rope with us so used it as a single. But placed runners so badly that rope drag stopped me moving past the ridge so had to take a belay there and finish it as a second pitch.

with Katy Mouritz
Ali Mortazavi 05/May/14 2nd O/S
with Scott
scott.hill 05/May/14 Lead O/S
Mike Soulby 05/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/14 Solo O/S
Hidden 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S
IanGilbertJones ??/2014 -
Matt Cooke 29/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with James
DanTT 14/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

P1 = L, P2 = 2

Hidden 28/Aug/13 Lead RP
Hidden 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Anna Morris 08/Aug/13 2nd O/S
MarkCunnington 08/Aug/13 Lead O/S
tradguy 14/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Rob Munday, Mark Hazell
lenn1346 09/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Matt O
pauldrew 21/Apr/13 2nd
with Kevin Sales
Rich Malcolm 13/Sep/12 Solo β
Radical-G 28/Aug/12 Lead O/S

The start is very polished. Protecting the second would prove difficult for a beginner.

samdenny 24/Jun/12 2nd O/S
Climbster 02/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Leslie
Hidden 25/May/12 Lead dnf
Jonny M 26/Feb/12 2nd O/S
hfac 26/Feb/12 2nd
with Jonny F
kabutsu ??/2012 -
pow22 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Robin Nichols 08/Aug/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/11 2nd dog
John Lewis 05/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Maureen
Graeme Hammond 15/May/11 Solo O/S
danny3007 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S
KurtD 23/Mar/11 Lead O/S

I did the route all in one pitch and tackled the lower crack instead of coming around to the left, messed about here for a good length of time ending up using the crack as a layback felt fun =]

with Alex Pegg
Hidden 24/Oct/10 2nd
migs493 22/Oct/10 Solo O/S
Josh Maye 16/Oct/10 Lead
PaulGreenhead 26/Sep/10 Lead

Loads of glass everywhere

with Kirsty
Kirsty 26/Sep/10 2nd
Hidden 05/Aug/10 Lead O/S
bigdrew 01/Aug/10 2nd

In trainers

with Micheal
jayray 17/Jul/10 Lead
Footy564 16/Jul/10 2nd
with sam greggory
Hidden 03/May/10 Lead O/S
drysori ??/2010 Lead
MikeDowsett ??/2010 2nd
with John Harrison
Simon Caldwell 23/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Worth it just for the 'a cheval' bit - though I confess to placing a sort-of side runner by walking along the ramp on the right and reaching up. I don't think it would have made any difference, but felt better :-)

with Carmen
Jimb0 ?/Aug/09 2nd
with Ander
Ander ?/Aug/09 Lead
with Jimb0
nathanroberts89 ?/Jul/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/09 Lead O/S
paulharmer 19/Jun/09 Lead
with David Hale
chrisclimber_1986 07/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with Luke Lindsay
Hidden 22/May/09 2nd O/S
benman 29/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Not an awful lot of gear on the top section... and make sure you use double ropes!! Oh, and the tree belay has gone!

with roger m
Alfredo ?/Mar/09 Solo
Ed_Dennett 26/Jan/09 2nd

Wet and very green.

with Rhys Jenkins
dhale79 ??/2009 -
with Paul Harmer
PanzerHanzler 27/Jul/08 Solo O/S
lenn1346 01/Jul/08 Lead rpt
with Colin L
devonjester 01/Jul/08 2nd rpt

Made it! Determination a must. Finished by straddling arete as per picture. Wearing shorts, so knees and ankles feeling it today!

lenn1346 27/Jun/08 Lead dnf

lead to tree half way up. Lots of rope drag so belayed from there. Colin defeated by the rain so I was lowered off from there.

with Colin L
devonjester 27/Jun/08 2nd dnf

Justin got to tree then belayed as lots of rope drag. Rain came in; although made it up polished start, couldn't make it up to tree as left jug was full of water and I was out of shape! Lowered off.

hamish2016 02/May/08 2nd O/S
with chris burn
AntiGrav ??/2008 -
thrutch ??/2008 -
howlingbaboon 05/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jul/07 Lead O/S
leonjones 23/Jun/07 Lead
with Phil Barley
lenn1346 25/May/07 AltLd rpt

I lead 1st pitch. 2nd pitch traversed right to finish direct

with Tom M
tom169 25/May/07 AltLd O/S
with Justin
lenn1346 14/May/07 Lead O/S
with Colin L
devonjester 14/May/07 2nd O/S
vvanhinsbergh 06/May/07 Lead O/S
with Will Payling
Hidden ??/2007 -
djbeaumont 23/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Trace
Hidden 23/Aug/06 2nd
Swirly 15/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Ceri
duncan 01/Jul/06 Solo rpt
SuperstarDJ 06/Jun/06 Lead O/S

Took about four tries to get onto the route at the very polished bottom! Some nice moves and bits on this route though. Well protected where you want it. Managed to create some ridiculous rope drag, to the extent I could hardly move the rope at the top section. Ended up pulling loads through to effectively solo the 'a cheval' bit. Couldn't seem to get moving on the arete so climbed off and moved along the right side using the chipped holds. Nice route.

mungo 06/Jun/06 2nd β

a struggle with the initial moves but a most memorable route , wimped out on the cheval moves opting for the hand traverse option instead, Cracking lead from David.

mol 06/Aug/05 2nd
Epic Ebdon 06/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Molly Thompson
SiW ?/Aug/05 Lead β
Alfredo ?/Sep/04 Solo
Hidden 16/Sep/03 Lead
Chris Murray ?/Aug/03 -
with Charles MacGreggor
Phil West 17/Aug/02 Lead O/S
with Chris Tan
duncan 12/Aug/02 Lead
with Greg Herson
Hidden 21/May/02 Lead
DerwentDiluted 02/May/02 Solo
petekeron ??/2002 Lead O/S
Alastair Hudson 29/Sep/01 Lead
with Clare Young
Budge 16/Aug/01 Lead rpt
with Jan
Gman ?/Jul/01 Lead O/S
with Dan, Eamon
Rampikino 03/May/01 2nd
with Bob Brown
Budge 20/Aug/00 Lead O/S
with Rich
chrishedgehog 17/Jul/00 Lead O/S
with Joe Thompson
Laramadness 30/Apr/00 Solo O/S
alan moore ??/2000 -
roncaves 23/May/99 Solo
Hidden ?/May/99 Solo
paul birch 28/Mar/99 -
EddieA 08/Nov/97 Lead dnf

On Peak Rock description is right - it is desperate in the wet!

with Simon W
Hidden 20/Jul/97 2nd
Hidden 29/Jun/97 Lead O/S
Roget 17/Aug/95 Solo O/S
Martyn ??/1995 Lead O/S
with Shaun Hodgkins
Marti999 ?/Jun/94 Solo
with lorna
Martyn ??/1994 Lead O/S
Martin Bennett 21/Jun/92 Solo
tlr 07/May/92 Solo
with Cal
Hidden 05/Aug/90 Lead O/S
craig h 12/Mar/90 Solo O/S
Ian Archer 06/Mar/90 Lead O/S
with Neil Watson
andrew300169 ??/1990 -
nai ??/1990 Solo
Paul Clarke ??/1989 -
Iain Thow 16/Jul/88 Solo
Hidden ?/May/87 Lead O/S
Chris the Tall ?/Jun/86 Solo O/S
clark alston ?/Aug/83 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Oct/82 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Oct/82 Solo
RichardMc 26/Jun/82 -
with Betty Seifert, Dave Langmead
John Brayshaw 03/Jun/82 Lead O/S
with Alfreton MC
charlesmfrench 08/Feb/82 Solo O/S
Chris Terrey ??/1982 2nd
with Ken Taylor
Nigel Bond 29/Jun/80 Solo
uphillnow ??/1980 -
Andy Say ??/1979 Lead
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1979 Lead
Hidden ??/1978 -
MikeDowsett ??/1978 2nd
mitch1960 ??/1978 -
Nigel Bond 12/Nov/77 Lead
with Tony Cuddy
jon ?/Jan/77 Lead

Junior: 'The only protection on this is a cricket box...'

with junior
rogerskews ??/1976 -
with CMC Members
Mark Kemball ??/1975 Solo
Hidden 26/May/74 2nd
mcrtchly ?/Aug/73 -
tapley 26/Jan/69 Lead
mikej 02/Sep/67 Lead
with Nigel Sumner
mikej 15/Jun/67 Solo
with Steve Stobart
babymoac ??/0000 -
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High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
Votes cast 24
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 19
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set