Rockfax Description
A great way to experience the atmosphere of the south rim of the gorge for those not climbing at the necessary level for the Duc itself, or for an active rest day from climbing, though bear in mind that the fixed ropes are old and some of the iron work is a bit loose. In the shade until mid-afternoon with magnificent views of the gorge and L'Escalès. Cross the river at the fixed tyrolean just before entering the first tunnel then, follow fixed ropes right and up through the forest. A short vertical step leads to more rightwards traversing underneath the start of Série limité until steep metal ladders lead up and allow more traversing into the overhanging Hulk sector. Continue up and right following steep fixed ropes until an exposed step round a rib leads to a chained abseil anchor. Make 2 Exposed 50m abseils back to the forest. The 1st of these is quite diagonal, but can be split at an intermediate anchor. Continue down through this to the river which is crossed by tyrolean (this is usually in place in summer but worth checking beforehand) into the Baume aux Pigeons. From here metal steps lead into the middle of the first tunnel (headtorch useful), and back to the Couloir Samson. © Rockfax

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
beefcake 5 Jun -
Hidden 18 Apr Solo O/S
Dohnny_Jawes 18 Apr Lead O/S Good fun, the tufa crags at the top are well worth a look at the very least.
Good fun, the tufa crags at the top are well worth a look at the very least.
ARiches 24 Feb Lead
andy dunn 7 Sep, 2018 Solo
Claireybloomers 7 Sep, 2018 Lead Fun day out. Tyroleans were great. Some of the fixed rope was very sketchy..worn to the core in places!
Fun day out. Tyroleans were great. Some of the fixed rope was very sketchy..worn to the core in places!
andy dunn 7 Sep, 2018 Solo
disturbed_one51 25 Aug, 2018 Lead From reading the previous comments and description there has been some changes. Some of the fixed ropes have been replaced. There still is a lot of worn sun bleached rope. The ladders are knackered and broken so there has been a bypass of bolts and ropes established to the left. At the abseil area there is s choice of an anchor with mallions and no chain on the Arete which was fine but did indeed need a bit of traversal at the end. The other option is a winding load of fixed lines to another anchor with chains about 10m further right. It’s pretty exposed and a lot of the fixed rope is to the core so we avoided it. I enjoyed route despite the fixed gear. And the tyroleans and views were the highlight.
From reading the previous comments and description there has been some changes. Some of the fixed ropes have been replaced. There still is a lot of worn sun bleached rope. The ladders are knackered and broken so there has been a bypass of bolts and ropes established to the left. At the abseil area there is s choice of an anchor with mallions and no chain on the Arete which was fine but did indeed need a bit of traversal at the end. The other option is a winding load of fixed lines to another anchor with chains about 10m further right. It’s pretty exposed and a lot of the fixed rope is to the core so we avoided it. I enjoyed route despite the fixed gear. And the tyroleans and views were the highlight.
Graham Atkins ?Sep, 2017 - Team ascent on a rest day. Memorable for Theo practically naked on the tyrolean, thinking he was Bond. The fixed kit is knackered and not for the faint hearted
Team ascent on a rest day. Memorable for Theo practically naked on the tyrolean, thinking he was Bond. The fixed kit is knackered and not for the faint hearted
Hidden 16 Jun, 2016 -
foostu4 15 Jun, 2016 - Sketchy as! Not sure about the tern via ferrata, lots of pulling on sun-bleached rope which also happens to be your safety, many bits rubbed to the core. Would not recommend
Sketchy as! Not sure about the tern via ferrata, lots of pulling on sun-bleached rope which also happens to be your safety, many bits rubbed to the core. Would not recommend
NickSayers 21 Apr, 2016 -
Wildstyle 8 Aug, 2014 - Did to the abseil, the reversed. Poor quality ropes, we roped together.
Did to the abseil, the reversed. Poor quality ropes, we roped together.
madguernseyboy 8 Aug, 2014 Solo O/S
shafiq lalloo 21 Jul, 2014 -
arose 21 Sep, 2013 - Hilariously sketchy in places but really easy. Great for a rest day.
Hilariously sketchy in places but really easy. Great for a rest day.
HannahFrancis 21 Sep, 2013 Solo
with arose
with arose
andy jennings 4 Jun, 2012 -
Hidden 21 Mar, 2012 -
vix 21 Mar, 2012 -
georgeous 7 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S Via Ferrata of the DUC.(highly dodgy) knackered fixed ropes, made for 'interesting' traverses and descents. Take a spare pair of pants..
Via Ferrata of the DUC.(highly dodgy) knackered fixed ropes, made for 'interesting' traverses and descents. Take a spare pair of pants..
3 users have this on their wishlist
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Votes cast 1
Style of ascent
Lead
Soloed
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Not Set