Rockfax Description
The stunning hanging groove; brilliant but only for the bold. The technical crux is getting into the groove but is well protected (easier for the tall). Superb moves above this gain a psychologically draining rest point at the top of the groove where even breathing feels precarious! Slopers out right lead to the psycho-crux pull onto the arete with a high kick for a toe-hook, much gusto and a strong will to live. © Rockfax

FA. Johnny Dawes 1986

Ticklists: Hard Grit, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, World Graded List, Peak Rock/16/Eighties Gritstone :The Shape of Things to Come, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, Consumed, The "Mates Rates" Ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50, The Froggatt to Black Rocks 3 Star Pilgrimage, Definitive *** Peak Grit.

yan hawkins 19/Nov/17 TR RP

what an amazing route, managed to do clean a few times on top rope but didn't feel right to lead because of the huge crowd that was there and skin condition. Will be back for the lead soon! belayed james on it though! what an experience on its own!

James Smith 19/Nov/17 Lead RP

Wow! What a phenomenal experience. 3 tie-ins on top rope then led. First e8 and what a route for it to be on! Reached round left hand into flake on the crux and jumped to the top from the rail. Wild!

with Yan
Hidden 30/Oct/17 TR dog
brices 30/Oct/17 TR dog

all moves bar the one into the groove, top feels very easy if super insecure

with remus
mark20 25/Jan/15 Lead G/U
Ethan 13/Nov/13 Lead
with Pete Clark, Jon Clark
Hidden 09/Nov/13 Lead RP
Ram MkiV 10/Oct/13 Lead RP
hamer89 07/Feb/13 Lead RP

Aaaaaaamazing! Wanted to do this route for EVER. It all came down to nailing that start move which is desperate if your short! For tall people its piss. After that its all in the mind. Big up to my main man Finn McCann for the belay, the psyche and for getting it on film.

Cailean Harker 17/Jan/13 Lead RP

Amazingly happy to get this lead, an absolute relief catching the top. Would have loved to go for the ground up, but after Mike jumped off from the groove and the gear ripped out lost my bottle a bit and decided to look at gear and moves on a top rope first. Which in hind sight I am happy I did, because the top moves are super sketchy!

with Mike Goldthorp
Mike Goldthorp 17/Jan/13 Lead dnf

Went for a flash without too much expectation, got up to the top of the groove but really didnt fancy the uncertainty of the final moves, downclimbed a bit and jumped off, glad I did cos cam's ripped (placed them too high in the crack in the flared section, they're better a bit lower) and skimmed the floor on the low cams... Flashed on TR afterwards but a bit shaken to have another burn, will be back soon

nathanlee 26/Oct/12 Lead RP

Truly Iconic. Used the Jean Minh way to get into the groove, and the top felt fine in the cold.

Ed Booth 21/Oct/11 TR dog

So close to doing the move into the grrove twice, but its a proper body twister! At least that bits by the gear, the top is ok but would be scary on lead. Psyched!

Adam Booth 21/Oct/11 TR dog
Dirk Uhlig 04/Oct/11 Lead RP

Onsight on Toprope

MicheleC 06/Apr/11 Lead RP

first true E8! (not a boulder)

Jonas Paulsson 04/Mar/11 TR dog

Couldn't do the crux move. Did the rest with some falls over a number of tries.

FlorianCastagne 24/Aug/10 Lead RP

Superb!!! What a mental fight. 5 tries in top rope then lead with placing the gears. Two ropes. 3 days of work. Video: http://vimeo.com/14457298

with C?dric Claert, Guillaume Lion, Nathan Rosenfeld
Gazleah 07/Mar/10 TR
with elizabeth broadbent
St0neMonkey 10/Jan/10 TR β
pipof747 16/Oct/09 Lead RP
bunn.aroundthebloc ?/Aug/09 TR dog

Could do all but the Crux move into the groove. Pretty much flashed the top moves.

with Louise Street
Hidden ?/Jan/09 -
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 19/Dec/07 TR dnf
Skinner - The Lock Climbing Wall 05/Apr/07 TR
with baz/bev/heather/brindo/rachael
Hidden 25/Mar/04 Lead dnf
Laramadness 31/Aug/96 TR dog
Seb Grieve 05/Mar/89 Lead RP

2nd ascent. Slugs 1, 2 and 3 to protect. Head-point after top rope practise. Was pleased to do this as my first E8. Nearly soled the week before but glad I did not since no-one believed me and I had to send photos over to prove ascent.

with Phil Dickens
Hidden ??/1989 TR
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High E9
Mid E9
Low E9
High E8
Mid E8
Low E8
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
Votes cast 19
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 16
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set