20m.

Rockfax Description
The stunning hanging groove; brilliant but only for the bold. The technical crux is getting into the groove but is well protected (easier for the tall). Superb moves above this gain a psychologically draining rest point at the top of the groove where even breathing feels precarious! Slopers out right lead to the psycho-crux pull onto the arete with a high kick for a toe-hook, much gusto and a strong will to live. © Rockfax

FA. Johnny Dawes 1986

Ticklists

Hard Grit, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, World Graded List, Peak Rock/16/Eighties Gritstone :The Shape of Things to Come, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, Consumed, The "Mates Rates" Ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50, The Froggatt to Black Rocks 3 Star Pilgrimage, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Iggy_B 26 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Picture in summit 38 shows gear in the crack, albeit low down it is still higher than the cam underneath it. (Page 41)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Picture in summit 38 shows gear in the crack, albeit low down it is still higher than the cam underneath it. (Page 41)
Simon Caldwell 9 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: ...though you may then have trouble fitting your fingers in as well
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: ...though you may then have trouble fitting your fingers in as well
Iggy_B 8 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: If you can fit your fingers into something you can generally get gear in something...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: If you can fit your fingers into something you can generally get gear in something...
Iggy_B 21 Jan, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Can you not get some nuts in the crack that they've all got their fingers in?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Can you not get some nuts in the crack that they've all got their fingers in?
JR 11 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: or watch another clip on www.beardownproductions.co.uk
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: or watch another clip on www.beardownproductions.co.uk
The old James turnbull 1 Mar, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: could never do it, but anyone whos trys should watch the opening of the hard grit video. what a swing, what a slam, what a climb.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: could never do it, but anyone whos trys should watch the opening of the hard grit video. what a swing, what a slam, what a climb.
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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
yan hawkins 19 Nov, 2017 TR RP what an amazing route, managed to do clean a few times on top rope but didn't feel right to lead because of the huge crowd that was there and skin condition. Will be back for the lead soon! belayed james on it though! what an experience on its own!
what an amazing route, managed to do clean a few times on top rope but didn't feel right to lead because of the huge crowd that was there and skin condition. Will be back for the lead soon! belayed james on it though! what an experience on its own!
James Smith 19 Nov, 2017 Lead RP Wow! What a phenomenal experience. 3 tie-ins on top rope then led. First e8 and what a route for it to be on! Reached round left hand into flake on the crux and jumped to the top from the rail. Wild!
with Yan
Wow! What a phenomenal experience. 3 tie-ins on top rope then led. First e8 and what a route for it to be on! Reached round left hand into flake on the crux and jumped to the top from the rail. Wild!
with Yan
Hidden 30 Oct, 2017 TR dog
brices 30 Oct, 2017 TR dog all moves bar the one into the groove, top feels very easy if super insecure
with remus
all moves bar the one into the groove, top feels very easy if super insecure
with remus
mark20 25 Jan, 2015 Lead G/U
Ethan 13 Nov, 2013 Lead
with Pete Clark, Jon Clark
with Pete Clark, Jon Clark
Hidden 9 Nov, 2013 Lead RP
Ram MkiV 10 Oct, 2013 Lead RP
hamer89 7 Feb, 2013 Lead RP Aaaaaaamazing! Wanted to do this route for EVER. It all came down to nailing that start move which is desperate if your short! For tall people its piss. After that its all in the mind. Big up to my main man Finn McCann for the belay, the psyche and for getting it on film.
Aaaaaaamazing! Wanted to do this route for EVER. It all came down to nailing that start move which is desperate if your short! For tall people its piss. After that its all in the mind. Big up to my main man Finn McCann for the belay, the psyche and for getting it on film.
Cailean Harker 17 Jan, 2013 Lead RP Amazingly happy to get this lead, an absolute relief catching the top. Would have loved to go for the ground up, but after Mike jumped off from the groove and the gear ripped out lost my bottle a bit and decided to look at gear and moves on a top rope first. Which in hind sight I am happy I did, because the top moves are super sketchy!
with Mike Goldthorp
Amazingly happy to get this lead, an absolute relief catching the top. Would have loved to go for the ground up, but after Mike jumped off from the groove and the gear ripped out lost my bottle a bit and decided to look at gear and moves on a top rope first. Which in hind sight I am happy I did, because the top moves are super sketchy!
with Mike Goldthorp
Mike Goldthorp 17 Jan, 2013 Lead dnf Went for a flash without too much expectation, got up to the top of the groove but really didnt fancy the uncertainty of the final moves, downclimbed a bit and jumped off, glad I did cos cam's ripped (placed them too high in the crack in the flared section, they're better a bit lower) and skimmed the floor on the low cams... Flashed on TR afterwards but a bit shaken to have another burn, will be back soon
Went for a flash without too much expectation, got up to the top of the groove but really didnt fancy the uncertainty of the final moves, downclimbed a bit and jumped off, glad I did cos cam's ripped (placed them too high in the crack in the flared section, they're better a bit lower) and skimmed the floor on the low cams... Flashed on TR afterwards but a bit shaken to have another burn, will be back soon
nathanlee 26 Oct, 2012 Lead RP Truly Iconic. Used the Jean Minh way to get into the groove, and the top felt fine in the cold.
Truly Iconic. Used the Jean Minh way to get into the groove, and the top felt fine in the cold.
Ed Booth 21 Oct, 2011 TR dog So close to doing the move into the grrove twice, but its a proper body twister! At least that bits by the gear, the top is ok but would be scary on lead. Psyched!
So close to doing the move into the grrove twice, but its a proper body twister! At least that bits by the gear, the top is ok but would be scary on lead. Psyched!
Adam Booth 21 Oct, 2011 TR dog
Dirk Uhlig 4 Oct, 2011 Lead RP Onsight on Toprope
Onsight on Toprope
MicheleC 6 Apr, 2011 Lead RP first true E8! (not a boulder)
first true E8! (not a boulder)
Jonas Paulsson 4 Mar, 2011 TR dog Couldn't do the crux move. Did the rest with some falls over a number of tries.
Couldn't do the crux move. Did the rest with some falls over a number of tries.
FlorianCastagne 24 Aug, 2010 Lead RP Superb!!! What a mental fight. 5 tries in top rope then lead with placing the gears. Two ropes. 3 days of work. Video: http://vimeo.com/14457298
with C?dric Claert, Guillaume Lion, Nathan Rosenfeld
Superb!!! What a mental fight. 5 tries in top rope then lead with placing the gears. Two ropes. 3 days of work. Video: http://vimeo.com/14457298
with C?dric Claert, Guillaume Lion, Nathan Rosenfeld
Gazleah 7 Mar, 2010 TR
with elizabeth broadbent
with elizabeth broadbent
St0neMonkey 10 Jan, 2010 TR β
pipof747 16 Oct, 2009 Lead RP
bunn.aroundthebloc ?Aug, 2009 TR dog Could do all but the Crux move into the groove. Pretty much flashed the top moves.
with Louise Street
Could do all but the Crux move into the groove. Pretty much flashed the top moves.
with Louise Street
Hidden ?Jan, 2009 -
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 19 Dec, 2007 TR dnf
Skinner - The Lock Climbing Wall 5 Apr, 2007 TR
with baz/bev/heather/brindo/rachael
with baz/bev/heather/brindo/rachael
Hidden 25 Mar, 2004 Lead dnf
Laramadness 31 Aug, 1996 TR dog
Seb Grieve 5 Mar, 1989 Lead RP 2nd ascent. Slugs 1, 2 and 3 to protect. Head-point after top rope practise. Was pleased to do this as my first E8. Nearly soled the week before but glad I did not since no-one believed me and I had to send photos over to prove ascent.
with Phil Dickens
2nd ascent. Slugs 1, 2 and 3 to protect. Head-point after top rope practise. Was pleased to do this as my first E8. Nearly soled the week before but glad I did not since no-one believed me and I had to send photos over to prove ascent.
with Phil Dickens
Hidden ??, 1989 TR
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Voting
High E9
Mid E9
Low E9
High E8
Mid E8
Low E8
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
Votes cast 19
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 16
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set