UKC

Restricted Access

The crag is south facing for the most part and quick drying, especially with a bit of sea breeze. However, it's worth bearing in mind that traversing along the platform at the base of the crag (needed to get to most routes) can be exciting in anything other than calm seas. The traverse is generally accessible 3 hours either side of high tide for most of the crag and the base of Terrier's Tooth and Bishop's Buttress for slightly longer, although these times are significantly reduced during neap tides. During high tides or when big seas are running, it is also possible to abseil in to the upper pitches of several routes.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies to all routes on Bishop's Buttress - from Lacertion to The Mitre inclusive (route 82, page 153 to route 14, page 159 in the 2017 Climber's Club guidebook).

Routes within Zawn Rinny (Consolation Climb to Shark Alley) are also restricted during the same period, but the Zawn Rinny descent for the western end of Chair Ladder is fine to use. 

38m, 2 pitches. No description has been contributed for this climb.

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User Date Notes
Chris Pearson 24 Nov, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: start of The Mitre to The Pawn altered by 'rock explosion' during storms of early 1990's
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: start of The Mitre to The Pawn altered by 'rock explosion' during storms of early 1990's
petecallaghan 19 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Rotten rock in the first few meters with poor gear. Best started from the base of the approach gully, not from the base of Bishops Rib, to avoid the rotten rock. After that the rock is solid and justifies the stars
Show beta
βeta: Rotten rock in the first few meters with poor gear. Best started from the base of the approach gully, not from the base of Bishops Rib, to avoid the rotten rock. After that the rock is solid and justifies the stars

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 12
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 13
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Down Under, Up Top

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Predannack Head Area)

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