Rockfax Description
A great route which is probably the most popular route on the wall, although that isn't saying much. Start at mid-to-low tide towards the left-hand side of the wall. Climb a crack through the roof and continue to a recess - a thread and a rest. Traverse left to a bottomless groove and climb this for 6m until it is possible to traverse left again around a hanging arete to the upper section of the left-hand corner of the zawn. Finish up this. The top is loose so a pre-placed rope down the last 5m is not a bad idea. © Rockfax

Ticklists: The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).

Ed morris 20/Apr Lead O/S

All going well untill the corner came into view which was draining water! A bit of a fight up the corner then dry again for the crux and finishing groove. Over 2hrs on the lead, mainly due to the conditions. Note: Appeared dry from the viewing platform. Brilliant route!

Stefan_Morris 20/Apr 2nd
Wendy 18/Sep/16 2nd O/S
with Ali
Hidden 18/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Duncan Campbell 28/May/16 Lead dog

Greased off a flatty moving around the arete onto the wall before the final corner - annoying because I wasn't even pumped. Original plan was that Mikey was going to do a route first so hadn't filled my chalkbag up and ran out of chalk. Howard dropped me a rope for the top corner. Think if I had onsighted to there I would have got on with it but I would recommend at least having a rope there. Also bring loads of extenders and slings I left a load at the top. A brilliant trip across the wall and such an intimidating place to be! Really glad I had a go, looking forward to trying the E6s down there in the future.

with Mikey G
adam 24 18/Apr/15 2nd β
with Ross
quiffhanger 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Took me a while - climbing very tentatively & getting pumped way too easy. Nothing too hard - E4 climbing in an E5 situation. Extended everything and was v careful where I placed gear - rope drag not too bad. Dangled a rope down for the top but didn't use it - shouldn't have bothered: it's fine & well protected if you're careful.

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 05/Apr/15 Lead

I've wanted to do this for a long, long time. A brilliant adventure route with some fine features along the way. Stupidly used up all my slings extending runners low down, as a result I suffered from drag in the upper groove, the top was pretty wild as a result (no pre-placed rope). Nice...

nathanlee 05/Apr/15 2nd
with Rob Greenwood
bigie bob 05/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Tom Livingstone 22/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/13 2nd
Alice Thompson 09/Jun/13 2nd O/S


dan gibson 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Awesome climb in a great position. Committing start. The hanging corner and swing around the arÍte are cool. Had to fight the rope drag up the final section.

with alice thompson
colesy 13/May/12 Lead O/S

What an adventure, great route. Make sure you take a lot of extenders with you. Climbed with a cockney accent!

with Ollie Benzie
morganator 13/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Awesome route. A bit loose at the top, but not bad- didn't preplace the rope as suggested. 17 draws.

with Andy Benson, Sophie Whyte
soph ?/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Andy Benson, jon morgan
sadams 11/Apr/04 Lead O/S
with Eric Hildrew
Hidden 05/May/99 Lead O/S
andy gittins ??/1988 -
with Mark Carnall
1 users have this on their wishlist
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 8
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 8
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set