Rockfax Description
A great route which is probably the most popular route on the wall, although that isn't saying much. Start at mid-to-low tide towards the left-hand side of the wall. Climb a crack through the roof and continue to a recess - a thread and a rest. Traverse left to a bottomless groove and climb this for 6m until it is possible to traverse left again around a hanging arete to the upper section of the left-hand corner of the zawn. Finish up this. The top is loose so a pre-placed rope down the last 5m is not a bad idea. © Rockfax

Ticklists: The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).


ClimberDateStyle
Misha 28/May Lead O/S

Finally caught this one in decent conditions and at low tide! Even so, the intial crack through the roof was wet - lots of up and down to place gear and check out the moves ensued. Eventually committed off damp undercuts in the roof crack and pulled through - a bit scary as has to climb some way to better holds. Steady above and across to the bottomless groove, which proved to be fairly tricky and a bit damp - technical bridging required! Got a no hands rest at the top of the groove. A bit techy pulling round onto the slab (stay low). 5b/c from there but got a fair bit of drag as should have extended the runners in the groove more. Had preplaced a rope but didn't need it - final groove required care but wouldn't say it was loose. Brilliant route, one of the best single pitch adventure routes I've done. An E4 in an E5 situation as someone said earlier.

with Phil
philhilo 28/May 2nd O/S

1st E5 clean lead or second. Seemed pretty sensible, no hard moves but lots of fab climbing.

with misha
Ed morris 20/Apr Lead O/S

All going well untill the corner came into view which was draining water! A bit of a fight up the corner then dry again for the crux and finishing groove. Over 2hrs on the lead, mainly due to the conditions. Note: Appeared dry from the viewing platform. Brilliant route!

Stefan_Morris 20/Apr 2nd
Wendy 18/Sep/16 2nd O/S
with Ali
Hidden 18/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Duncan Campbell 28/May/16 Lead dog

Greased off a flatty moving around the arete onto the wall before the final corner - annoying because I wasn't even pumped. Original plan was that Mikey was going to do a route first so hadn't filled my chalkbag up and ran out of chalk. Howard dropped me a rope for the top corner. Think if I had onsighted to there I would have got on with it but I would recommend at least having a rope there. Also bring loads of extenders and slings I left a load at the top. A brilliant trip across the wall and such an intimidating place to be! Really glad I had a go, looking forward to trying the E6s down there in the future.

with Mikey G
adam 24 18/Apr/15 2nd β
with Ross
quiffhanger 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Took me a while - climbing very tentatively & getting pumped way too easy. Nothing too hard - E4 climbing in an E5 situation. Extended everything and was v careful where I placed gear - rope drag not too bad. Dangled a rope down for the top but didn't use it - shouldn't have bothered: it's fine & well protected if you're careful.

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 05/Apr/15 Lead

I've wanted to do this for a long, long time. A brilliant adventure route with some fine features along the way. Stupidly used up all my slings extending runners low down, as a result I suffered from drag in the upper groove, the top was pretty wild as a result (no pre-placed rope). Nice...

nathanlee 05/Apr/15 2nd
with Rob Greenwood
bigie bob 05/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Tom Livingstone 22/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/13 2nd
Alice Thompson 09/Jun/13 2nd O/S

Intense..

dan gibson 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Awesome climb in a great position. Committing start. The hanging corner and swing around the arÍte are cool. Had to fight the rope drag up the final section.

with alice thompson
colesy 13/May/12 Lead O/S

What an adventure, great route. Make sure you take a lot of extenders with you. Climbed with a cockney accent!

with Ollie Benzie
morganator 13/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Awesome route. A bit loose at the top, but not bad- didn't preplace the rope as suggested. 17 draws.

with Andy Benson, Sophie Whyte
soph ?/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Andy Benson, jon morgan
sadams 11/Apr/04 Lead O/S
with Eric Hildrew
Hidden 05/May/99 Lead O/S
andy gittins ??/1988 -
with Mark Carnall
jon 29/Aug/83 Lead

Diary: 'Fantastic route, but E4, not E3!' Ben must have been off his head...

with H
2 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 9
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 9
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set