24m.
A superb, fingery and sustained route on excellent rock. It takes the line of the crag direct up the centre of the vertical wall following the obvious white streak. Although the route is low in the grade, the numerous RP placements take considerable effort to place. On the first ascent a DMM Wallnut 0 was pre-placed at the crux. Start directly beneath the white streak and below a large flake against the wall.
(6b/c). Climb easily up to the top of the flake then make a hard move to become established on the wall. This is followed by strenuous fingery climbing up a thin crackline to reach a tiny break. A further series of difficult moves lead to a good hold in a small break up and left. Pull back rightwards to reach a good flake, then finish direct.
(6b/c). Climb easily up to the top of the flake then make a hard move to become established on the wall. This is followed by strenuous fingery climbing up a thin crackline to reach a tiny break. A further series of difficult moves lead to a good hold in a small break up and left. Pull back rightwards to reach a good flake, then finish direct.
Graeme Read and Simon Litchfield 24/Jul/2011.
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Route of Interest
Satan's little helper
Grade: E7 6b ***
(Black Wall)