UKC

26m. A fantastic route that tackles the obvious line of the corner and groove system to the right of the main face. Start on a platform beneath an obvious innocuous looking corner/crack.
(6b). From the very first move this corner is brutal, but eases higher up where the sanctuary of a left-trending glacis is reached - gear can be arranged at the top of the ramp before the crux. A hard and insecure-feeling move up a thin crack in the bulging wall to the left of the blank groove allows for a fabulously precarious position with your hands on a sloping shelf to be reached. A move back right to the base of a crack gains a bridging position and brings welcome respite and gear. Things ease with the final crack-line, but the climbing remains steep and brilliantly positioned.

Simon Litchfield and Graeme Read 31/Jul/2011.

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UK Extreme Corners , Unticked E1-E5 ***

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Route of Interest
The Main Event

Grade: E5 6a ***
(Hodge Close Quarry)

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