Rockfax Description
(The West Face) Long and committing. The route starts right of two large blocks on the ledge. .
1) N4, 60m. Trend right to a big ledge, then traverse the ledge all the way to the right to a corner near a block.
2) N6, 55m. Climb up a left-facing groove then make a small traverse out right to climb a right-facing groove before traversing right to stance.
3) N6-, 55m. Move back left a little, then climb straight up the parallel cracks and through the overhang. A little higher traverse out left across a small slab, then up and right to a stance.
4) N4, 15m. Easy terrain leads to the base of a thin crack
5) N6, 15m. Climb the thin crack to a stance to the left above a traverse heading out right.
6) N6+, 50m: Down-climb a little then traverse out and 'Dance on the Devil's Dance-floor' before climbing straight up the crack leading to a right-facing groove. Up this to the stance on a ledge.
7) and 8) N5, 90m. Trend left over easy terrain following the natural weaknesses to an exit on the far left via grooves and cracks. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
(The West Face). The original route on Stetind's west face must be combined with a route on Vesteggen (West ridge) for a total of 13 pitches and 2-300 m of scrambling, in order to reach the top of Stetind and the descent route (Normalveien, 4+). This combination makes for a fine outing, and a long day for most, and is one of the most sought after long routes in Norway.

P1. 4+, 60 m. Identify a large square-shaped roof to the right of an inverted staircase and climb a crack of your choice right of said roofs to gain the large ledge 40 m above the grass ramp on the left side of the West face. Belay on the right side of the ledge in the bottom of a large corner.

P2. 6, 55m. Climb corners straight up into a stembox and belay under a large roof in the top of a left-facing corner. This roof is clearly visible from the start of the pitch.

P3. 6-, 55m. Step out left and climb up cracks and corners to the bottom of a low-angle broken corner

P4. 6, 45 m. 20 m of easy terrain leads to a beautiful finger-crack on a clean face which in turn leads up to a small stance at the bottom of a corner capped by a roof.

P5. 6+, 50 m. (The Devil's dance-floor). Climb down and right out to a crack that passes the roof on the right side.

P6. 4-5, 60 m. Shuffle up ledges on not totally solid rock, heading slightly to the left.

P7. 5, 35 m. Find a right slanting corner that leads to the false summit.

P8-P14 Climb Vesteggen (West ridge) to the top, and descend via the Normal Route.

(FFA: Lundahl/Selin 1980)

J. Bruskeland, N. Faarlund, A. N?ss, K. St?ren 1966.

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