Rockfax Description
14m. Follow the superb central crack with good gear and fine sustained climbing - the start is rather perplexing. At the top of the crack, climb the wall up and right for the most fitting finale. © Rockfax

FA. Robin Barley 1967

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Western Grit: Top 50, The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, World Graded List, 3 Star Graded, Roaches HVS Challenge, The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza.

LJC 24/Nov/16 Lead O/S
with Herve
Robin Nichols 23/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Roger
superturbo 25/Sep/16 Lead
Hidden 24/Sep/16 2nd dog
markK6 24/Sep/16 Lead dog

Rested on the rope before committing to the crack above the scoop the rest went fine.

with Simon
fuzzysheep01 17/Sep/16 Lead O/S
TomGB 17/Sep/16 2nd

Great route. Flipping hard and sustained!

with Joe
TGreen 27/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Rosie Henstock 27/Jul/16 2nd rpt
Will Murphy 04/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Andy
TDSvejstrup 03/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jul/16 2nd
Metz 04/Jun/16 TR β
Andy Myers 04/Jun/16 2nd
Tricklebank 04/Jun/16 TR O/S
Andrew Abraham 28/May/16 Lead rpt
eduardo 15/May/16 Lead rpt

Straightforward HVS, if you can do a bit of wide bridging at the bottom. Gear is decent, once you get to the first piece. Nice to get this clean after a previous go back in the mists of time

with Rob Trz
HumphreyJ20 07/May/16 2nd O/S
Valentino 07/May/16 Lead O/S
with Jay
cbonner 03/Apr/16 TR O/S
cols1982 03/Apr/16 TR dnf
with cbonner
JenShelley 13/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with Robb
Robb Bert 13/Mar/16 -
GStone 25/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Dan3266 25/Oct/15 2nd O/S
with GStone
The Grist 17/Oct/15 2nd
steely 13/Oct/15 2nd O/S
owain-1978 13/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Jules Lane 11/Oct/15 2nd dog

Excellent climbing. Sustained 5a all the way. Came off on first attempt to get to the first bridging position but got it second go and just about got up the rest.

with Mynydd Richard W
Karl Wooffindin 11/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Pretty certain I did the splits on this route...

with JG
tinab 04/Oct/15 Lead

What a route!!

Hidden 04/Oct/15 2nd O/S
bclifton 04/Oct/15 2nd
with tinab
Hidden 28/Sep/15 2nd O/S
mark4344 28/Sep/15 Lead
with Michel
Hidden 24/Sep/15 Solo O/S
Andy Peak 1 02/Sep/15 2nd

lead in grate style! worm up, and then the rain came

with J Doors
Hidden 23/Aug/15 Lead rpt
Nigel Bond 11/Aug/15 2nd
with Bern Hardman
R0bbie 09/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Taba
crossleysm ?/Aug/15 Lead rpt
with Stuart Walker
Droyd 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Will, Chris
liebs 25/Jul/15 2nd O/S
bencole ?/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Dad
Hidden 21/Jun/15 Lead O/S
mapperley samurai 09/Jun/15 2nd
with Lewis Holmes
FlavioL1989 08/Jun/15 Lead O/S
MichaelGallimore 08/Jun/15 2nd

Necky start

DanChad 03/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Le Chevalier Mal Fet 03/Jun/15 2nd
tom bre 03/Jun/15 2nd dog

Hard & sustained 10 for effort 0 for style (3 rests) - felt really boxed on this, plenty of 5a after the lower crux. Would of been an Awesome route if strong and fit enough to climb clean though!

Hidden 03/Jun/15 Lead
Climbster 25/May/15 Lead O/S
with Vick, Ian
Bloke on a Rope 25/May/15 2nd β
with Matt
Kevster 23/May/15 Lead O/S

Nice. Solid.

with jon C, Lizzie
greenclimb 04/May/15 Lead
will9911 26/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with Alison
rob 528 10/Apr/15 Lead rpt
Andy Peak 1 07/Apr/15 Lead O/S

5b for the short but not hard

with Andrew Deckon
deacondeacon 06/Apr/15 Lead

Super sport on Andys gear

greenclimb 01/Nov/14 Lead O/S
with Sarah
Hidden 01/Nov/14 2nd
Hidden 27/Oct/14 Lead O/S
PeteWilson 30/Sep/14 Lead rpt

seconded this last year. cool route :)

with James
Rafal Malczyk 28/Sep/14 Lead RP

Ian started the climb but couldn't finish so I took over leading. Fell off on my 1st attempt but than lead it cleanly. Very good route.

with Ian Pegg
rurp 08/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Small sketchy gear til after 5b move at 20ft. Awesome climb

with bill farmer
littleduck 05/Jul/14 2nd
with Tony Madden
Hidden 28/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Ewano 26/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Sustained 5a, quality route. Rock is a bit suspect at the top.

Lukem6 11/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Kev
friendzone1234 ?/Jun/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 26/May/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/May/14 Lead RP
Hidden 26/May/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 21/May/14 Lead O/S
danJBA 19/May/14 Lead O/S
with Dan Brockwell
Hidden 05/May/14 Lead O/S
thehugehead 03/May/14 -
with faith, Rosie Henstock, Alice
Hidden 03/May/14 Lead
Rosie Henstock 03/May/14 2nd dog

Had to weight the rope to get the first bit of gear out. Very interesting climbing great moves!

Hidden ?/May/14 TR
rob 528 ?/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Jonathan Hall 29/Mar/14 2nd rpt
RM199 29/Mar/14 Lead dog

1 rest,

mickd 08/Mar/14 Lead RP

Too cooooold. Backed off. Then fell off. Then just strolled up. Probably not the best route to warm up on after a 4 month break. Good quality route.

Andrew Abraham 02/Jan/14 Lead rpt

Toooo cold, summer route!

with Ceara
IanGilbertJones ??/2014 -
Andrew Abraham 17/Dec/13 Lead O/S

Mint route, lots of good gear. took me a while to sus out the foot sequence at the start ... Good value route!

with Ky
monsteratt 10/Nov/13 2nd O/S

Bit painful on the hips then some interesting jamming higher up. Good route quite different.

with Dan Fairbank, Nick Whimster, Andrew Abraham
Andrew Abraham 10/Nov/13 Lead O/S
disturbed_one51 20/Oct/13 Lead
with Wee man
Jonathan Hall 20/Oct/13 2nd
1poundSOCKS 28/Sep/13 Lead O/S

A really good route with painful gymnastics at the start. A solid HVS experience.

rich_hw 14/Sep/13 Lead rpt
with James
Hidden 14/Sep/13 Lead
manwithacam 08/Sep/13 Lead

solid HVS

with Mike R
Curly Rich 07/Sep/13 2nd dog

tried the lead couldnt figure it out followed stuart

with GMC Stuart
Mark Warnett ?/Aug/13 -

absolutely brilliant route

Ky 11/Jul/13 Lead O/S

On Petes kit

with Pete Bridgewood
jimbonfire 11/Jul/13 -
Nick Russell 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Worth the stars! The crux is tough for 5a (maybe easy 5b, not sure) but can be protected adequately and is great fun. The crack above is great too, just hard enough that you have to concentrate but not desperate.

with Simon
mikealexpayne 04/Jul/13 TR
augustus trout 25/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Only just onsight.

with Mike Whitehurst, Stevie G
PeteWilson 07/Jun/13 2nd O/S

great steady lead by dave, warm rock and quite greasy, good sustained route

with Dave
psborland 19/May/13 2nd
pipof747 10/May/13 Lead O/S
Siyfion 06/May/13 2nd dog
sgl0jd 19/Apr/13 Lead O/S
mark4344 19/Apr/13 Lead dnf

v.tough for grade. commiting moves and poor gear low down. 1st climb this year, but never usually struggle at HVS.

with Matt Payne
cheeky 19/Apr/13 TR O/S
Max Lowry ??/2013 -
Guy Wilson ??/2013 -
with Gavin Moy
JayAyBee ??/2013 Lead O/S
with Pat
sputnik 24/Nov/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Nov/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Oct/12 TR
Chriswallis2 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Anna
Bullybones 22/Sep/12 2nd
with Dave Garnett
Hidden 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S
cem 22/Sep/12 2nd rpt
Hidden 01/Sep/12 Lead
Allan Watson 01/Sep/12 Lead
with Andy Graham
sdi 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Tom K
Different Steve 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Jason
jasonpm 21/Jul/12 2nd
with Steve IMC
simeclimb68 12/Jul/12 2nd
Phil Layton 12/Jul/12 Lead dog

Second ever fall onto gear (a number 3 wire) which was in the way of a possible hold. Two of the lower three pieces of gear popped out. Had a rest on the rope and finished the route with difficulty.

with simon
namagnall 12/Jun/12 2nd
Jay C 12/Jun/12 2nd O/S
SteveHi 11/Jun/12 Lead dog

Slightly slippery. Needs more traffic to keep it clean.

with Nathan Magnall, Jay Conlon
kenneM ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Climbed with Danger - brilliant route

with James Wyatt
WillDoyle 29/May/12 2nd

Left all the gear for Stu lol.

Hidden 27/May/12 2nd
Hidden 27/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/May/12 2nd
AB744 20/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/May/12 Lead
g1m147 18/May/12 Lead

Great route.

with Mick.
Hannes B 12/May/12 Lead O/S
with Rik
Alex@home 02/May/12 Lead O/S

outstanding. one of those climbs you wish went on forever

with The Doctor
timmyhobby 05/Apr/12 Lead O/S

great climb!

hoggy90 05/Apr/12 2nd
andrew sandercock 01/Apr/12 2nd

Quite tricky.

with robert sandercock
Hidden 26/Mar/12 -
Hidden 13/Mar/12 2nd rpt
Jim Malo 03/Mar/12 2nd dog
with Dave W, Barry
fatbuoybazza 03/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with jim, daveyw
Stone Muppet 26/Feb/12 Lead O/S

Nice to get a clean ascent 10 years later

with ah
Hidden 19/Feb/12 Lead dog
dickie01 14/Jan/12 2nd O/S
with Joe Heasman
Hidden ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
AlexRenshaw 06/Nov/11 2nd
with Ted Lister, Thomas Renshaw
James Oswald 26/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Did the crux by rocking rightwards onto the ledge just to the right of the crack. Made a weird move to get back to the right hand side. Awesome moves for the rest of the route. Top notch

James Oswald 26/Oct/11 2nd dog

Fell off twice having lead the route 10 minutes before....

Speeddemonsi 26/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Andrew Barker 26/Sep/11 2nd
with Si
Dave Rumney 04/Sep/11 -
with Tanya Milner
vanderz 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jul/11 Lead O/S
bigdrew 13/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Rich R
richardr 13/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 18/Jun/11 2nd rpt
Dan Geh 14/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Very nice

with James Barber, Adam Jordan
AMJ098 14/Jun/11 2nd
with Dan Geh
Laurence Everitt 27/May/11 Lead O/S

Amazing! and not polished, bonus!

clive-greenwood 21/May/11 2nd
with Dave Clarke
JaseSSDD 19/May/11 2nd dog

Bridging in the first half required the ability to pull the splits which I did not seem to have

with Ian Barker
Ed Booth 27/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with matt pardy
Hidden 27/Apr/11 2nd
Emma-Louise Anderson 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Absolutely awesome line. Interesting moves up to the crack that suited my style of climbing and then boldly climbing the crack knowing the gear is awesome. Loved it! Again, I did it because there was know retreat once you commit to it. The flake at the top feels unstable.

with Adam Newmark, Mel Brown
Adam Newmark 25/Apr/11 2nd
with Mel brown, Emma Louise Anderson
Amy Kilpin 23/Apr/11 2nd
tatz45 19/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Wes Inskip
Dizz 17/Apr/11 2nd
with max
Hidden 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Jon Read 16/Apr/11 2nd
with Brian Wyvill
keith Lonsdale ?/Apr/11 2nd
andybirtwistle ?/Apr/11 Lead
Adam Booth 18/Mar/11 2nd O/S
edmitchell 18/Mar/11 Lead O/S
simeclimb68 22/Jan/11 Lead rpt
matthomas79 22/Jan/11 2nd
with Simon Palmer
Luke Brooks ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
adie84 ??/2011 -
Chris Sansum 12/Dec/10 Lead O/S

Found this really technical. A really nice route, even if I was swearing at it a lot. Slab at the top was very green! Must learn to do the splits before jumping on a route like this again.

with Phil Gibson
tedj234 25/Sep/10 -
with Kate Campbell
Alex Winter 08/Sep/10 Lead O/S
tigertim 08/Sep/10 2nd
Hidden 01/Aug/10 2nd rpt
Hidden 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Lenny 24/Jul/10 Lead dog
with Paul
climbing_wiggy 24/Jul/10 2nd β
with Leon
Alistair Corbett 24/Jun/10 Lead O/S

sweet route but quite stiff

with ben peake
Andy Hardy 18/Jun/10 Lead O/S

tricky start, delicate in the middle - nice!

bobpilgrem 18/May/10 TR O/S

Nic showed me how to do bridging move- one to lead another time.

with Bob/Nic
bigbobbyking 09/May/10 2nd
with Chris Allan
chrisallan 09/May/10 Lead O/S
edinbed 18/Apr/10 Lead
Shauna 11/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Jules
Hidden 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
crossdressingrodney 10/Apr/10 2nd RP
GrantB 03/Apr/10 Lead
with James
jkarran 03/Apr/10 2nd

Very hard, slightly insecure start with blind gear. Glad to be on the blunt end of this one!

with Grant
CharlieMack 11/Mar/10 2nd O/S
Tomprusk 07/Mar/10 -

one seemingly desperate move then big holds all the way

with Racheal
Boy 04/Mar/10 -
with Si Wilson
rikbattye ?/Mar/10 Lead O/S
GF ??/2010 -
Ebarnes ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden 27/Sep/09 2nd
Graeme Hammond 20/Sep/09 Lead O/S

well worth the walk over from the roaches at the end of the day what a route!!!! Keeps you working on good holds and bomber gear even after the amazing 'rubberhips' move :D

with Phil Baxter
Hidden 23/Aug/09 2nd
Jim Slater 16/Aug/09 2nd dog

E1 5b surely?

with Trevor Wilson
Hidden 23/Jul/09 Lead
Hidden 09/May/09 2nd
IceMonkey1982 03/May/09 -
James B 18/Apr/09 Lead
with Nick
donkster 15/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with dennis
Kingsjester 06/Apr/09 TR
with Martin cleaver
Hidden 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Lev 02/Nov/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Nov/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/08 Lead O/S
jon bradley 11/May/08 2nd rpt

Awesome route - sustained for the grade

with Huw Howells
graphiclunarkid 11/May/08 2nd dog

Sustained - need to be flexible for the first few moves too!

with Huw
Si dH 07/May/08 Lead O/S

Quite hard and sustained. Has a surprising variety of types of moves and doesnt really ever ease off much.

with Neil Furniss
HimTiggins 26/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Paul
Hidden 18/Mar/08 Lead O/S
Dux 18/Mar/08 2nd dog
Owen W-G 10/Feb/08 Lead β

Belayed Rob prior to leading myself. Nice crux moves but shame it fizzles out so soon.

with Robin
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 -
JimR 11/Nov/07 -
Ian Parnell 24/Oct/07 2nd O/S
with Jon Winter
Rich Kirby 06/Oct/07 2nd O/S
Rachel S 06/Oct/07 Lead
with Richard K
cem 06/Oct/07 Lead rpt
with David T, Rob Truckle
Jus 30/Sep/07 2nd
Andy Clarke 15/Sep/07 Lead dog

Great climb - the kind you want to jump straight back on to savour a second time. Probably will go back for another turn, since I rather carelessly fell out of the crack!

with Rob
dan gibson 12/Aug/07 Lead rpt
Marvino 04/Jul/07 Lead

The holds in the crack were a welcome relief after the technicalities of the scoop. Loved it despite being very pumped near the top.

with Rach
flyboy86 ?/Jun/07 TR

started to lead (first hvs)wussed out, then topped :(

with Nick (kendogcatchy)
galpinos 01/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with John
Chesh 25/Mar/07 2nd
with Tom
Mr Wild 25/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with chesh
Jon Read 14/Jan/07 2nd rpt
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Bob Peters ??/2007 Lead dog
with Dad
Hidden 12/Nov/06 Lead
dan gibson 17/Sep/06 Lead rpt
with helen gibson
Stig 07/Sep/06 2nd O/S
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
Hidden 29/Aug/06 Lead O/S
ArnaudG 24/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Goi
feilx 29/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Tom
dan gibson 02/Jun/06 Solo O/S
gregoritos ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
WB 18/Feb/06 Lead O/S
with Guy
John Lisle ??/2006 -
Chesh 17/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with ScotsPaul
John Southworth ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
just one more 04/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with chris nunn
Hidden 02/May/05 Lead O/S
Smelly Fox 02/May/05 Lead O/S
with Slim Beam
A Downing 04/Apr/05 Lead O/S
with Ben Monkton
Ben1983 ??/2005 Lead O/S
Jon Read ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Debs
aulda 04/Sep/04 2nd O/S
with Dave R
andybirtwistle 12/Aug/04 Lead O/S
with Sue Birtwistle
Rob Davies 01/Aug/04 Lead dog

Drizzling when we around - sat around waiting for rocks to dry out, but still very green and a bit damp

with Les Goram
Hidden 18/Jul/04 2nd
FrankW 16/May/04 2nd rpt
with Peter T
shoulders 06/Mar/04 Lead
with nathan
Coel Hellier ??/2004 Lead
Brian Rodgers ??/2004 2nd O/S
with Phil Authers
mark s ??/2004 Solo O/S
lithos 18/Oct/03 Lead
Mark Davies PK ?/Oct/03 Lead O/S
with ???????????????
Hidden ?/Oct/03 Lead O/S
DubyaJamesDubya 11/May/03 Lead O/S
with Adrian Casey, Colin Brearley
kato'sdad ?/May/03 Lead
RobSimmo ?/May/03 2nd O/S
chrishedgehog 19/Mar/03 Lead O/S
with Joe Thompson
Hidden 15/Mar/03 Lead
eduardo ??/2003 Lead dog

With Dunc, Bri Rodgers etc, 2003 ish? 1 rest

Hidden 16/Aug/02 Lead
Hidden 15/Aug/02 Lead
Hidden 07/Jul/02 Lead
FrankW 20/Apr/02 Lead O/S
with Joe
Phill Mitch ??/2002 Lead O/S
with john d
Stone Muppet ??/2002 -
Bullybones ??/2002 -
Gus ??/2002 Lead
arkinzee ??/2002 Lead
cem 23/Sep/01 2nd
Gary Coggon ?/Sep/01 Lead O/S

Brian Law

with Brian Law
chris sm 14/Jul/99 Lead O/S
chris sm 14/Jul/99 Lead O/S

Great route.

with Ruth Taylor
Billg 27/May/98 Lead O/S
with Alisdair Pettifer
Hidden ?/Mar/98 Lead O/S
Martin Bennett 27/Oct/97 -
with Cec
Hidden 03/May/97 Lead O/S
Le Chevalier Mal Fet ?/May/97 Lead
with Richard Bower
Hidden ?/Mar/97 Lead O/S
goi.ashmore 08/Sep/96 Lead O/S
with Dave Banham-Hughes
D Tempest 06/Jul/96 2nd
with Rick
Gordon Stainforth 20/Sep/95 Lead
with John Stainforth, Chris Thorp
Hidden 20/Jul/95 Lead
michael burrows 23/Apr/95 2nd
with richard parry
nige ?/Feb/95 Lead
with sven rowan
Phil West ??/1995 2nd β
with Steve Wild & jimmy Turner
Scott McRae ?/Jun/94 Lead O/S
with Steve Jones
Hidden ?/Apr/94 Lead
OMSKB 05/Sep/93 Lead
crossleysm ?/Sep/93 Solo O/S
Martin Bennett 14/Jun/93 -

My comment at the time: the best pitch I've done on grit"

with Gill Fenna
Hidden 05/Jul/92 TR
nai ??/1992 Lead
Andy Say 20/Aug/91 Solo
kp64zl ?/Jul/91 TR
whispering nic 29/Jun/91 Lead
with noj
Roget 20/Jun/91 Solo rpt
Gordon Stainforth 24/Mar/91 2nd
with Brad Jackson
Roget 16/Mar/91 Lead O/S
Andy Fielding ??/1991 Lead
with Mark Lardner
whispering nic ?/Oct/90 Lead O/S
with Ali W
sadams 31/Aug/90 Lead
with Mark Bonham
John Marsland 08/Jul/90 Lead
with Dave Mould and Allen Newby
steve prior ?/Jul/90 Lead
with Paul L
Hidden 07/May/89 2nd
timbanton ?/Apr/89 -
Stoney Boy 11/Jun/88 2nd O/S
with Gareth James
Hidden ?/Jun/87 Solo
Hidden 26/May/87 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1986 Lead
charlesmfrench 22/Sep/85 Lead O/S
ukb shark 02/Jun/85 2nd
with Phill Dickens
Hidden ?/May/84 2nd
The Reaper 20/Jun/82 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Jun/82 Lead
Hidden 10/May/82 2nd
nbotting ??/1982 -
Hidden ??/1982 Lead
Hidden 18/Oct/81 Lead
Mark Kemball ??/1980 Lead
duncan ?/Sep/79 2nd O/S
Mark Kemball 11/May/77 Lead dnf
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 93
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 89
Votes cast 91
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set