Rockfax Description
16m. Quality face climbing with a bold central section. Climb the right arete of Rubberneck (a highish runner is permissible) then trend right by high-stepping/rockovers and tricky mantelshelves before following holds straight up the wall, which eases gradually with height. © Rockfax

FA. Dave Jones 1977

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, World Graded List, Peak Rock/14/Gritstone After the Gold Rush, James' Winter Grit ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza, Definitive *** Peak Grit.

Ben1983 29/Oct/17 Lead O/S
RM199 15/Oct/17 Lead dnf

A few goes with high side runners. Eventually managed the first crux then couldn't see a way through the second/ scared so jumped off and swung. Good fun but no cigar

Hidden 15/Oct/17 Lead dnf
Nick1812P 26/Mar/17 Lead O/S
with Jake
James Oakes 26/Mar/17 Lead O/S
Jake Young 26/Mar/17 2nd β

Should have manned up and lead it but couldn't commit, next time.

amccann 26/Mar/17 Lead β

Had just belayed Nick on it, so knew what to expect and already had the gear in rubberneck.

JCAshman 13/Feb/17 Lead O/S
benw681 13/Feb/17 Lead O/S

Bit of a cold so with side runner pre-clipped

with Jamie
jimlear ??/2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Nov/16 Lead
Graeme Hammond 02/Nov/16 Lead RP

Brilliant moves

with Matt G
Melonfly ?/Nov/16 2nd dog
with Hugo
Robin Nichols 23/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Roger
Hidden 02/Oct/16 Lead β
deacondeacon 02/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Very good. Still felt a little warm for grit today but what a route.

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 31/Jul/16 Lead O/S
James Smith 12/Jul/16 Lead G/U

fell off the slab traverse first go. Manged to keep in second go. Brilliant climb!

with hugo
Hugobristol 12/Jul/16 Lead G/U

In retrospect I have realised the line we did was 'walking on sunshine' E3 6b (in the roaches guide-cant find it here). Traverse with your feet on the hand holds of apaloosa sunset, well worth a go.

with Mel
Andrew Abraham 28/May/16 Lead rpt
Andrew Abraham 01/Nov/15 Lead rpt
with Paul Deane
Hidden 01/Nov/15 Lead RP
Proddler ?/Nov/15 2nd
Hidden 24/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Bloke on a Rope 25/May/15 Lead O/S

Fudging Amazing! Had an eye on this for ages and I wasn't disappointed. Set off on the crux without thinking about it properly and missed the little hand hold to balance up with, realised I was gonna come off so miraculously managed to reverse! Next time up spotted the hold and it went swimmingly! Was glad not to take the monster swing like! Felt top end of the grades to me.

with Matt
Kevster 23/May/15 Lead dnf

Bailed on the 2nd rock over type move. The legs are worth more than the tick.

with jon C
Boy 17/May/15 Lead
with Emlyn James
will9911 26/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Hard moves compared to other roaches e3s. The Rickover is very high!

with Alison
jamesgodwin64 22/Mar/15 Lead β
Sammy Oakes ??/2015 Lead O/S
with Andi
Alistair Corbett 16/Oct/14 Lead rpt

Found this hard and scary.Nearly dropped the crux...those rock overs are not my style!

with Sam hamer, Ed
PeteWilson 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Brilliant, and Greasaaay!! :p

with Andrew Graham
WillDoyle ?/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/May/14 TR O/S
RM199 29/Mar/14 2nd dog
Jonathan Hall 29/Mar/14 Lead
augustus trout 11/Mar/14 TR rpt
with John Perry
Mark Warnett ?/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Just enough holds on the face; not as tough as it looks from ground, fantastic route on great rock

jimxxx ??/2014 Lead

Fell off the initial traverse until I sussed out the moves . Brilliant route

Andrew Abraham 17/Dec/13 Lead RP

Awesome route!! Managed to get my heel on wrong for the second rock over. One of the best routes I've done to date

with Ky
manwithacam 08/Sep/13 Lead

had my eye on this for ages, great to get it done, and a great climb. the rockovers not the hardest part for me, it was leaving Rubberneck and getting to the first rockover, very thin.

with Mike R
Ky 27/Aug/13 Lead RP
with Pete Bridgewood
Ky 11/Jul/13 TR RP

Awesome route!

with Pete Bridgewood
Alistair Corbett 16/Jun/13 2nd
with nick
Nick Sillem 16/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Mike W 05/Jun/13 Lead dnf
augustus trout 19/May/13 2nd dnf
pipof747 10/May/13 Lead O/S


sgl0jd 19/Apr/13 Lead O/S
JayAyBee ??/2013 Lead O/S


with Pat
dannyboy83 11/Oct/12 Solo O/S
Hannes B 12/May/12 Lead dog

1 swing :D

with Rik
rikbattye 12/May/12 Lead O/S
Alex@home 02/May/12 Lead O/S

long term ambition ticked. great route. not too hard - move getting to jug was definitely the crux - but fantastic moves on wonderful rock in a lovely setting

with The Doctor
Matt Harle 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Mar/12 TR
Pete Graham 05/Mar/12 Lead
with Howard Lawledge
jacobjacob 26/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Stone Muppet 26/Feb/12 TR O/S

Would be too bold for me unless high side runners placed in Rubberneck

with ah
Hidden 26/Feb/12 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2012 -
AlexRenshaw 06/Nov/11 Lead
with Ted Lister, Thomas Renshaw
richardr 13/Jul/11 Lead O/S

The second rockover/mantle is a bit frightening!

bigdrew 13/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Rich R
Ed Booth 27/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Alec Thomas
Jon Read 16/Apr/11 Lead rpt
with Brian Wyvill
edmitchell 18/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Adam Booth 18/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
quiffhanger ?/Nov/10 Lead O/S
tedj234 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Kate Campbell
phil64 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S

rockovers are always so hard for the tall!!

with tim hunter
Hidden 01/Aug/10 2nd β
Hidden 01/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Shauna 11/Apr/10 2nd dog
with Jules
mattyork2 03/Apr/10 2nd
Rowansb 21/Mar/10 Lead O/S

awesome and bold

Tomprusk 07/Mar/10 TR


with Racheal
rikbattye ?/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2010 -
Ebarnes ??/2010 -
Hidden 27/Sep/09 2nd
Martin Cooper 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Stan
Hidden 11/Apr/09 Lead
Hidden 05/Jun/08 2nd
Luke Brooks 05/Jun/08 Lead O/S
daveagriff ??/2008 TR
Hidden 16/Nov/07 Lead
Ian Parnell 25/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Jon Winter
Rachel S 06/Oct/07 2nd
with Richard K
Rich Kirby 06/Oct/07 Lead rpt
Jon Read 02/Oct/07 Lead O/S

Tuesday nighter action.

with Mike Mortimer
Jus 30/Sep/07 Lead O/S
DavidEvans 28/May/07 Lead O/S

Amazing - wasn't sure if I was going to make the move to the jug!

with Toby Dunn
Toby Dunn 28/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with dave evans
Coel Hellier 10/Mar/07 Lead
dan gibson 17/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with helen gibson
Pythonist 11/Aug/06 2nd O/S
with Dave
feilx 29/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Ben Harper
Hidden 21/Jan/06 Solo O/S
Apharri ?/May/05 Lead O/S
with Dave Wharton
aulda 04/Sep/04 TR RP
with Dave R
Hidden 18/Jul/04 TR
dominic lee ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with daniel lee
shoulders 16/Apr/04 TR
with pete lewis
DubyaJamesDubya 11/May/03 Lead O/S

Very pleased with this one.

with Adrian Casey, Colin Brearley
mark s ??/2003 Lead O/S
charlesmfrench ??/2002 2nd β
with Dave Fooks
Bullybones ??/2002 -
sadams ?/Apr/01 Lead
with Eric Hildrew
Hidden ??/2001 Lead O/S
Gus 29/Aug/00 Lead O/S
tuftynick ??/1999 Lead O/S
with ciaran troup
Billg 27/May/98 Lead O/S
with Alisdair Pettifer
Hidden 22/Mar/98 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 11/Jan/98 Lead O/S
with Al Willoner
Spottykidfromstourbridge ??/1998 Lead O/S
SR1970 ?/Mar/97 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1997 TR
goi.ashmore 08/Sep/96 Lead O/S
with Dave Banham-Hughes
Hidden 07/Sep/96 Lead
D Tempest 06/Jul/96 Lead O/S
with Rick
Hidden 29/Jun/95 Lead
Chris Reid 24/Jun/95 Lead O/S
with Oliver Allen
nige ?/Feb/95 Lead β
with sven rowan
crossleysm ?/Sep/93 Lead O/S
andrew300169 30/Jun/93 2nd O/S
with Pom
nai ??/1992 Lead
Hidden 12/May/91 2nd
Rich Kirby 06/May/91 Lead O/S
with Andy Mackay
Roget 10/Apr/91 Lead O/S
with colin
Andy Fielding ??/1991 TR
with Mark Lardner
Dave Musgrove 07/May/89 Lead O/S
with Paul Dawson, Kim Greenald
Hidden 16/Apr/89 Lead
Stoney Boy 11/Jun/88 Lead O/S
with Gareth James
Hidden 24/Apr/88 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/87 Lead
Hidden 26/May/87 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Oct/86 Lead
Neil McA 14/Sep/86 2nd O/S
with Roy Ruddle, Martin Wilson
Hidden 25/Jun/85 2nd
ukb & bmc shark 02/Jun/85 Lead O/S
with Phill Dickens
Hidden 03/Jul/82 Lead
Hidden ??/1982 Lead
Hidden ??/1982 Lead
nbotting ??/1982 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 13/Sep/81 Lead
with Chris Calow
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 44
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 42
Votes cast 42
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set