24m.

Rockfax Description
An unequal battle for many. Climb the rib, then the sustained pocketed crack with difficulty (old peg) to an eventual breather on a ledge on the left. Pull up and right, through the bulge, then swing rightwards to the lower-off. © Rockfax

FA. Rock and Ice members early 1950s FFA. Ron Fawcett Chris Gibb 1976 1952

Ticklists

Peak Rock/13/The Limestone Revolution, Definitive *** Peak Lime

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UserDateNotes
UKB Shark 9 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: The Rockfax mistakenly shows this finishing right to a bolt belay which actually belongs to a new route/project/open project. The original finish is to the ledge on left then right rib of groove. Going the Rockfax way is E56B. Also worth noting that the start is fairly unprotectable.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The Rockfax mistakenly shows this finishing right to a bolt belay which actually belongs to a new route/project/open project. The original finish is to the ledge on left then right rib of groove. Going the Rockfax way is E56B. Also worth noting that the start is fairly unprotectable.
Adrian Berry 19 Aug, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The topo seems out of sync with the description - follow the description to the ledge, and above and right of the ledge it is logical to continue up and right, rather than step back down, make hard moves through the bulge to get to exactlt the same spot - which is indicated by the topo. Maybe I went the wrong way? You can easily clip a double bolt belay out right and lower-off and save all that grass pulling to the top.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The topo seems out of sync with the description - follow the description to the ledge, and above and right of the ledge it is logical to continue up and right, rather than step back down, make hard moves through the bulge to get to exactlt the same spot - which is indicated by the topo. Maybe I went the wrong way? You can easily clip a double bolt belay out right and lower-off and save all that grass pulling to the top.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
john lynch 1 Sep Lead dog Great tussle but fell off and got a cam stuck unfortunately. great route and one to return to.
Great tussle but fell off and got a cam stuck unfortunately. great route and one to return to.
Bethan May Davies 1 Sep 2nd Got the cam stuck after John's valiant attempts climbing the burly overhanging crack.
Got the cam stuck after John's valiant attempts climbing the burly overhanging crack.
JBO 15 Aug Lead O/S Pleasantly surprised not to find this too bad. First section was a bit go-ey though. From the ledge I made a hard pull out right and up through the second roof, then continued straight up to the summit - didn't realise you couldn't belay up there. Nice consolation prize after struggling on Eye of the Tiger.
Pleasantly surprised not to find this too bad. First section was a bit go-ey though. From the ledge I made a hard pull out right and up through the second roof, then continued straight up to the summit - didn't realise you couldn't belay up there. Nice consolation prize after struggling on Eye of the Tiger.
Duncan Campbell 3 Jun 2nd rpt Still very uphill this one. Think going up and left to the chain gives you a solid E4 6a tick. Going left over the roof is more like E5 6b from what I have heard.
Still very uphill this one. Think going up and left to the chain gives you a solid E4 6a tick. Going left over the roof is more like E5 6b from what I have heard.
James Oswald 3 Jun Lead dog Desperate! Slightly bold start, then steep and hard crack! Would be E5 at many other crags!
Desperate! Slightly bold start, then steep and hard crack! Would be E5 at many other crags!
Haydn Jones 5 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S Hmm went left at the top?... Seemed like the most obvious way to go. still felt like E4 this way. Going through the bulge looks hard and contrived.
Hmm went left at the top?... Seemed like the most obvious way to go. still felt like E4 this way. Going through the bulge looks hard and contrived.
ferdia 7 Jul, 2017 Lead G/U pleased to do this ground up second go. especially as i didnt think i'd be up for a fight today. tag team with burton. fierce!! description of thetop in rockfax seems odd. i did something like andi turner below. stepping right off the ledge rather than taking the bulge direct which seemed harder and contrived. cleaning the gear from the lower off way out right was pretty hard work. so if its meant to finish more directly as one person has described below that might make sense.
with burto
pleased to do this ground up second go. especially as i didnt think i'd be up for a fight today. tag team with burton. fierce!! description of thetop in rockfax seems odd. i did something like andi turner below. stepping right off the ledge rather than taking the bulge direct which seemed harder and contrived. cleaning the gear from the lower off way out right was pretty hard work. so if its meant to finish more directly as one person has described below that might make sense.
with burto
Bristoldave 2 Apr, 2017 Lead dog Harder than it looks!
with Luke
Harder than it looks!
with Luke
markalmack 24 Sep, 2016 Lead dog I think it's fair to say I was not on form trying this. Couldn't seem to relax with resulted in a rather large dose of flight time. Chopper!
with will-i-am-old-as-fuck
I think it's fair to say I was not on form trying this. Couldn't seem to relax with resulted in a rather large dose of flight time. Chopper!
with will-i-am-old-as-fuck
Andy Moles 12 Jul, 2016 Lead G/U Fell off inches from the top of the difficulties. Went quite easily second time with the gear in.
with Tony
Fell off inches from the top of the difficulties. Went quite easily second time with the gear in.
with Tony
Duncan Campbell 10 Jul, 2016 Lead β Bit dissapointed with my performance on this. I went up and down a few times getting a cam up and left and a really low wire. The start holds were a little smeggy which added to the slightly uninspiring gear and the route reputation made me a little too cautious. Came back down for a rest and let Ben have a go. He managed to get another wire in and then blasted to the top. I led it on his kit and found it tricky but am sure I could have o/sed. If only I'd given it one more go! Didn't think it was as hard as Mortlock's or maybe even Bitterfingers.
Bit dissapointed with my performance on this. I went up and down a few times getting a cam up and left and a really low wire. The start holds were a little smeggy which added to the slightly uninspiring gear and the route reputation made me a little too cautious. Came back down for a rest and let Ben have a go. He managed to get another wire in and then blasted to the top. I led it on his kit and found it tricky but am sure I could have o/sed. If only I'd given it one more go! Didn't think it was as hard as Mortlock's or maybe even Bitterfingers.
rocksol ??, 2016 -
Justin T 6 Aug, 2014 2nd Seconded clean by the skin of my teeth after a sort of team up/down climbing session to get the first gear and moves sorted which went on much longer than either of us would care to admit!
Seconded clean by the skin of my teeth after a sort of team up/down climbing session to get the first gear and moves sorted which went on much longer than either of us would care to admit!
Rachel Slater 6 Aug, 2014 Lead dog I went up to the first slopey pocket a few times, trying to get in some gear but it felt really strenuous and couldn't get anything really good. After climbing up a few times then half committing, I just downclimbed and had a mini meltdown - gave up and Justin had a go. He managed to get in a few more pieces and somehow convinced me to have another go. Definitely didn't want to but went for it anyway and managed to reach the crack where I frantically stuffed in loads of poor nuts and cams but didn't feel like I had any of the sizes I wanted... Kept going higher with more dodgy gear until I was almost at the top of the crack/rest where I completely freaked after I couldn't place more gear and fingers slipping out. So pumped! One to come back for... never?!
I went up to the first slopey pocket a few times, trying to get in some gear but it felt really strenuous and couldn't get anything really good. After climbing up a few times then half committing, I just downclimbed and had a mini meltdown - gave up and Justin had a go. He managed to get in a few more pieces and somehow convinced me to have another go. Definitely didn't want to but went for it anyway and managed to reach the crack where I frantically stuffed in loads of poor nuts and cams but didn't feel like I had any of the sizes I wanted... Kept going higher with more dodgy gear until I was almost at the top of the crack/rest where I completely freaked after I couldn't place more gear and fingers slipping out. So pumped! One to come back for... never?!
ejected ??, 2013 -
dan gibson 4 Jun, 2012 Lead dnf fell off, shut down at the top
fell off, shut down at the top
bigie bob 23 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
nicolat ?Sep, 2011 2nd
with James Mitchell
with James Mitchell
Misha 5 Jun, 2011 Lead dog An unequal battle indeed! Description to follow.
with Tom
An unequal battle indeed! Description to follow.
with Tom
Brown 9 Apr, 2011 Lead β previously seconded 04.07.09
with Henry
previously seconded 04.07.09
with Henry
Tom Briggs 4 Jul, 2009 2nd
with Bob Smith
with Bob Smith
Hidden 30 Jul, 2008 Lead dog
andi turner 26 May, 2008 Lead Move right off ledge and direct over nose until it is possible to climb the right side of the hanging rib.
with Mark Sharratt
Move right off ledge and direct over nose until it is possible to climb the right side of the hanging rib.
with Mark Sharratt
mark s 26 May, 2008 Lead
with andi t
with andi t
Toby Dunn ??, 2007 -
with JulesV
with JulesV
UKB Shark 9 Aug, 2006 Lead rpt The Rockfax mistakenly shows this finishing right at the top to a bolt belay which actually belongs to a new route/project/open project. The original finish is to the ledge on left then right rib of groove. Going the Rockfax way is E56B.
with Steve Mac
The Rockfax mistakenly shows this finishing right at the top to a bolt belay which actually belongs to a new route/project/open project. The original finish is to the ledge on left then right rib of groove. Going the Rockfax way is E56B.
with Steve Mac
Mike_d78 1 Jun, 1998 Lead O/S
with ste_d
with ste_d
ste_d 1 Jun, 1998 2nd O/S
Hidden ??, 1992 Lead
ajtay ??, 1992 -
Hidden 21 Jul, 1990 Lead
Alan James - UKC and UKH 12 May, 1990 Lead
with Steve Anson
with Steve Anson
Hidden 29 Apr, 1990 Lead O/S
UKB Shark 22 Jul, 1989 Lead
with Stu Bolton
with Stu Bolton
stp 9 Apr, 1983 Lead 5 falls plus 3 on the walk in!
5 falls plus 3 on the walk in!
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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 7
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Dogged
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set