Rockfax Description
One of the best routes in the Dale - a big pitch, steep sustained and in a superb situation. Several old pegs remain though plenty of more modern alternatives are available. Climb straight up the tricky fingery wall into the base of the slanting fault of John Peel. Follow this until it starts to lean to the right when awkward, exposed moves can be made out onto the face on the left. Climb steeply into the long crack and then follow it all the way to the cliff top. Superb. © Rockfax

FA. Steve Read, Rod Leeming, D Carnell, P Brown, S Hunt mid (A2) 1950s FFA. Paul Nunn Jeff Morgan (well almost - 2 pts) 1969 1955

Ticklists: Classic Rock Climbs In Northern England by Bill Birket, Rockfax Peak Limestone Top 50, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, The Peak: Past and Present, World Graded List, Ultimate E1 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).

Hidden 06/Oct Lead O/S
max_chan 23/Jul 2nd dog

Came off to get gear out.

with Claire - PCC
Lessworkmoreclimbing 16/Jul Lead O/S
with Kev
Noah Near-Theholds 28/May 2nd

With JB

Stroppy 27/May Lead O/S

Not sure how far to the left of John Peel the start is meant to go but felt pretty squeezed. Good moves out of the groove then sort of fizzled out. A little disappointing.

slowmotion 27/May 2nd O/S
ferdia 14/May Lead O/S
Andy Moles 14/May 2nd
with Ferdia
Hannes B 23/Apr Lead O/S
buxtoncoffeelover 23/Apr 2nd

Very nice - good positions, positive holds, not particularly sustained or strenuous

Adge ??/2017 2nd O/S
with Shannon
ned_85 02/Oct/16 2nd
with Robert Adie
adie84 02/Oct/16 -
markalmack 24/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Good, but not amazing

WB 24/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Mike W 30/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with chris
deacondeacon 24/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Top 50? No way!

Matt77 10/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Lovely route. I thought the technical crux was a couple of metres above the tree. Rope got stuck on the ab down so I got to practice my prussiking skills.

with Ben Williams
Martin Bagshaw 19/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Overrated, and a bit vegetated for a top 50.

Hidden 19/Jun/16 2nd O/S
Tubs 06/Mar/16 Lead rpt

Day 2: Used the in-situ rope from the previous day's efforts (!) to TR to half height and then led from there to the top. Even wetter at the bottom than the day before but still a really excellent route. Somehow our general numptyness made the whole experience more enjoyable.

with Alan D
Tubs 05/Mar/16 2nd dnf

Day 1: A really hard move for the short low down, exacerbated by inconvenient wet streaks, resulted in a failed lead attempt. Alan then led to half height before twilight/my incompetence on second stopped play. Abbed off.

with Alan D
Hidden ??/2016 -
georgenvk 18/Oct/15 2nd O/S
Gympaul 04/Oct/15 Lead
Jonathan Hall 05/Sep/15 Lead
Hidden 18/Aug/15 Lead rpt
danJBA 18/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with Simon
harry_lewis 12/Aug/15 2nd
amccann 12/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Nigel Bond 01/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Bern Hardman
benw681 21/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Brilliant but certainly not as hard as other E1s in the Dale.

with Hannah
danielroymoss 14/Apr/15 TR

beautiful day, felt not too polished, though sustained and intense

Hidden ??/2015 -
Kirill 25/Oct/14 2nd β

After failing to lead

cem 25/Oct/14 Lead dog

In fairly poor conditions. 1 rest at crux: got wrong-handed and couldn't adjust because of cold fingers.

SGD 07/Sep/14 2nd

Such a great route. Sustained and at the top of both grades. The Guano section makes for a intesresting move or 2. Gotta go back and lead this myself and a few others on this excellent wall of rock.

Chriswallis2 24/Aug/14 Lead rpt
with Anna, Jenny
cem 09/Aug/14 Lead rpt

One of the great Peak Lime E1s.

Graeme Hammond 09/Aug/14 2nd rpt

must lead this again, really enjoyable.

with Charles
dr_botnik 07/Aug/14 2nd dog

Pulled on peg. Also got rope stuck and had to improvise; jumared up on crappy prussiks, for 45 metres in the sun. Still, better than popping down the gym eh?

with derek
Hidden 07/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Justin T 06/Aug/14 Lead β

Looong route, I removed one short loop of 10mm rope which someone had added (in case the other 3 bits of 10mm rope at the anchor failed?!) which made the ropes near impossible to pull.

with Rachel
Rachel Slater 06/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Longer than it looks!

Jenny Clarke ?/Aug/14 2nd
Jim Slater 27/Jul/14 Lead rpt

Had pulled on the peg when I seconded it 4 years ago so good to get the clean lead.

with Maia
Hidden 27/Jul/14 2nd dog
helin 25/Jul/14 2nd
with gavin
Hidden 25/Jul/14 Lead
Hidden 15/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jul/14 Lead dog
Duncan Campbell 05/Jul/14 2nd

Keeps coming at you and the gear is weird. Very good though!

with Robbie
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Fragmod 01/Jul/14 2nd
Tim Rodgers 30/Jun/14 2nd
DanielGyi 26/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Really cool climbing

Hidden 06/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/Jun/14 Lead
the power 01/Jun/14 Lead dnf

Shit mesen haha

admackie 01/Jun/14 Lead


with paul
Hidden 01/Jun/14 2nd β
Hidden 31/May/14 Lead O/S
GermanAlex 04/May/14 2nd

shamelessly aided the crux section

Brannock 04/May/14 Lead O/S

Brilliant, three star peak lime esoterica classic, top pretty filthy but still good climbing, tough crux but good gear all the way.

john lynch 29/Apr/14 2nd O/S

brilliant, shame we got the ab ropes stuck!

with Lewis Andrew
eel 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Andy J
mike mo ??/2014 -
ejected ??/2014 -
leon 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S
fabricio 01/Sep/13 2nd
with leon
robgixer ?/Sep/13 Lead O/S
robgixer 31/Aug/13 Lead
masa-alpin 31/Aug/13 2nd β

Rob lead. Last time I attempted, I missed the junction from John Peel. Today, after I abseiled from the top, a rope got stuck at the top, so I shunted up this route again to free the ropes...

with Aidan M, Rob G
Martin Haworth 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Andy
Andrew Sloan 10/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
jon_gill1 24/Jul/13 Lead O/S

felt quite hard, especially for first and only climb of the night!great position though!

with chris Lyness
Hidden 09/Jun/13 2nd dog
duzinga 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S

best climb I've done this year. I felt the crux low down before the first peg.

with Omer
ambrooker 01/Jun/13 2nd O/S

Amazing position!

with Tom
chiverstom 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Brilliant. First trad route in ages and what a route

with Alice
JayAyBee ??/2013 Lead O/S
with Pat
GrantB 07/Sep/12 2nd
Neil McA 02/Sep/12 2nd rpt
with martin cooper
Hidden 31/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Alex@home 22/May/12 2nd O/S

Cracking. Wish I'd led it. Not too hard, just continually interesting climbing

with The Doctor
Hidden 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
PAJames ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Ally Smith 01/Oct/11 2nd
edinbed 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Fantastic sitting up on that ridge with the dale in full early autumn glory. Dovedale Church looks otherwordly from up there.

Hidden 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Fran S8 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Bry 03/Sep/11 2nd β
with Fran
Mike_Hayes 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S
bigdrew 05/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Mark R
mark20 05/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Dizz 10/Apr/11 2nd
with David B
Chriswallis2 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Anna
rikbattye ??/2011 -
Ahab 02/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Bit damp, but once through the initial section settled in to some awesome + exposed climbing!

Graeme Hammond 02/Oct/10 2nd rpt
switch 05/Sep/10 2nd
with James
simonp ?/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Annelies Sarrazyn
Hidden 16/Aug/10 2nd
Graeme Hammond 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Almost climbed the wrong route... The line in the rockfax photo topo makes it look like you should start by climbing the blank wall to the left of where the route actually goes which i was avoiding thinking it was the line of John Peel. So I was relived when Jim said that JP started further right and I could go and climb on some holds! instead being about to try to climb a new direct start to Destot's Gap! *should have looked at the hand draw topo which is much clearer. A long but excellent haul with some truly great moves!

with Jim
Jim Slater 25/Jul/10 2nd O/S

Pulled on quickdraw at crux.

caradoc 19/Jun/10 Lead

I used a lot of nuts on this route. Central section- http://youtu.be/IvhKXKTIAAE

with john b
Rich Guest 04/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Really nice climbing. Getting used to limestone now and this felt pretty steady. Good footholds across the crux etc

Hidden 04/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Bex_M 23/May/10 2nd
with Duncan Dunbar
metal arms 15/May/10 Lead
Hidden 22/Apr/10 Lead
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
GF ??/2010 -
Different Steve 01/Sep/09 Lead dog

Just how the hell do you step left? Grr!

with Clare
Barry D 22/Aug/09 Lead dnf

Started up George in mistake for John Peel.Just as about to pull onto ledge to join JP top 3 wires pulled out,jibbered to peg on JP and lowered off..

with Mel
Brown 22/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with James T
Hidden 14/Jul/09 2nd rpt
Si dH 14/Jul/09 Lead O/S


with Neil Furniss
HimTiggins 04/Jul/09 2nd O/S
with Jon & Paul
gazfellows 24/Jun/09 2nd

Rested on gear after crux..

with shaun d
gazfellows 24/Jun/09 2nd
with shaun d
Hidden 01/Jun/09 Lead
odox 24/May/09 Lead

Lead first pitch up to top of overhang then went right across to 'John Peel'

with Andy Birtwistle
Hidden 24/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Apr/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/08 Lead
cem 24/Aug/08 Lead rpt
BallsofBritishSteel 24/Aug/08 2nd O/S
with Charles
Luke Brooks 14/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Matt Dalby
JDSwain 23/Jun/08 2nd
IanJackson 23/Jun/08 Lead O/S

Excellent Route, very sustained but never desperate at the grade.

with Swain16
Hidden 11/Jun/08 2nd
philhilo 11/Jun/08 Lead
willackers 08/Jun/08 2nd β
with Tom Mills
Nicos 16/May/08 Lead O/S
with aiden jones
Misha ?/Aug/07 Lead dog
Hidden 24/Jul/07 Lead O/S
thebigfriendlymoose 21/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Stephen
Sankey 21/Apr/07 2nd O/S
with Luke
Ropeboy 15/Apr/07 Lead
Adam Ellwood ?/Mar/07 2nd
DavidEvans ?/Mar/07 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 07/Aug/06 Lead O/S

top quality route, huge plethora of moves and types of holds, (finger, hand and fist jams), and the odd technical move thrown in!! start from directly below the big tree and follow the flake line, i think the topo in the guide might be wrong.

andi turner 06/Jun/06 Lead O/S

Good. A little forgotten perhaps.

with Mark Sharratt
mark s ??/2006 Lead O/S
with andi t
Chris the Tall 15/Jul/05 Lead O/S

Fantastic long route, very pumpy. Nice summit !

cem 13/Mar/05 2nd rpt
Hidden 17/Apr/04 Lead
Okecroak 19/Sep/03 2nd
with J Teale
Dave Bond 11/Jun/03 Lead O/S
with Simon Wren
nickdonohue ?/Jun/03 Lead

sustained and hard sequency crux; great pitch

with Jim Barradale
Phill Mitch ??/2003 Lead O/S
with john d
cem 06/Jul/02 Lead O/S
with James Gregory
Mark Davies PK ??/2002 Lead O/S
Bullybones ??/2002 -
Hidden 30/Apr/00 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
Chris Ellis 25/Apr/99 Lead
with Chris Barnes
nokishatov 01/Jun/98 Lead O/S
ste_d 17/Jul/97 Lead O/S
with mik
nokishatov 17/Jul/97 2nd
Hidden 01/Mar/97 Lead
Hidden ?/Nov/95 Lead O/S
Martin Bennett 08/Oct/95 -
with Jerry Evans, SF
Daniel Wrightson ?/Oct/95 Lead O/S
with Olivia Horner
nuts and bolts ?/Aug/95 -
andy_pemberton 12/May/95 Lead
with Aidrian Jones
nickcanute ??/1995 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/94 Lead O/S
Marti999 ?/Apr/94 Lead O/S
with john
crossleysm ??/1994 2nd
Bruce Kerr 27/Mar/93 Lead
with Perric Crellin
AlanLittle ??/1993 Lead
with Rob Allen
FATBOYFAT ??/1993 -
Steve Crowe 11/Oct/92 2nd O/S
Mick King 31/Jul/92 Lead
with Simon Walsh
Roget 21/Mar/92 Lead O/S
with Jonathan T
Ian Jones ??/1992 Lead O/S
with John Godding
andrew300169 ??/1992 Lead O/S
with Pom
nai ??/1992 Lead
SB_NWUK_99 ??/1992 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1992 -
Hidden 15/Jun/91 Lead
Neil R 26/May/91 Lead
with Ed
jcw ?/May/91 -
with Martin Harris
leathers ?/May/91 2nd O/S
with James Thomas
Hidden ??/1991 Lead O/S
Stoney Boy 02/Sep/90 2nd O/S
with Colin Hughes
Eduardo Martinez ??/1990 Lead O/S
ukb & bmc shark ?/Feb/89 Lead
Hidden 22/Jan/89 Lead
Derek Furze ??/1988 Lead
with Leigh Harrison
Robmwatt ??/1988 -
Billg ??/1988 Lead O/S
with Dave Gregory
Derek Furze ??/1988 Lead
with Leigh Harrison
John Marsland 30/Aug/87 2nd
with Paul
Hidden 02/Nov/86 2nd
Gezzer ??/1986 Lead O/S
with Merv Dudley
TonyF 01/May/85 Lead
with Tony Cox
Hidden ??/1985 Lead
andy gittins ??/1985 -
John Marsland 21/Jul/84 Lead
with Dave Mould
charlesmfrench 24/Sep/83 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 06/Feb/83 Lead
Hidden ?/May/81 Lead
Hidden ?/May/81 AltLd
uphillnow ??/1980 Lead
Andy Edgar ??/1973 Lead O/S
with Mick Hardwick
Hidden 01/Jul/69 Lead
28 users have this on their wishlist
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 56
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 55
Votes cast 55
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set