Restricted Access
BMC met with the land owner and we can confirm that the OS maps is incorrect, the farmers have expressed that all the climbers they have seen have been polite, however are still concerned with liability, if you are to climb in this area please keep a low profile, keep the area clean and approach from the forest below not over the private land above. If you are asked to leave please do so without fuss.
Middle of nowhere buttress, sit start under the left of the buttress, power through to the jug on the lip via a crimp on the left, then use 2 crimps to make a huge throw to a good sloper to the right, then links into Phi-Creatures.
David Cover 23/Nov/2011.
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Route of Interest
Fears Traverse
Grade: f6B+ ***
(Goitre Coed Rocks)