UKC

165m, 5 pitches. (5b, 5c, 6a, 6a+, 6a+) Plastic holds bolted onto the face of the Luzzone Dam. The world's longest artificial route, with more exposure than a bulldog's testicles. Very well equipped and easy to abseil off should you need to (some of the pitches are longer than 30m, so you'll need a long single or doubles/twins to escape). Otherwise it's an easy walk back down once you've topped out. 20CHF fee and a 100CHF refundable deposit (2007).

ClimberDateStyle
Ulgrid 26/Aug/17 AltLd
with Dave
salexc 27/Jul/17 AltLd dog

Not technically difficult but my God you need some stamina to do it. We trained, lots, but still ended up dogging from the second pitch. The slab is not so slabby, and the overhang is not so steep, but after 120m it sure feels like it!! Plus the exposure does funny things to your headgame (at least, it did mine) and the hanging belays are torturous. Oh for a ledge! Still an amazing experience though. :) P1: gentle lead-in P2: the fun begins P3: challenging traverse @ ~90m P4: hardest of the lot P5: home straight, and easier than P3 (imho)

with Rosi Sexton
Tim tigger 26/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

Great fun, not technically difficult but long so good stamina required.

juicer 30/Jul/16 Lead β

Excellent fun, beautiful surroundings, very well-protected. I think the grade comes from the length and exposure - the moves aren't hard, but you need endurance! https://brucefillery.wordpress.com/2016/07/31/done-it/

with Massimo Bognuda
e9mark 08/Jul/16 -
with Joff
david_brookes 08/Sep/15 AltLd

Sustained. Becomes harder towards the top.

Ulgrid 08/Sep/15 AltLd

Each pitch is harder than the last - not as easy as you might think for a 6a+!

with Dave
Stuckey 10/May/15 Lead O/S

Hungover and cuffed, just enough rope, just enough quick draws, just enough chalk

DorsetGareth 09/May/15 AltLd O/S

Get on it!

cornishben 09/May/15 AltLd O/S

A great outing!

Wildstyle 03/Aug/14 Lead dnf

Got rained off after first pitch, was pretty cool definitely going back on a sunnier day :-)

madguernseyboy 03/Aug/14 AltLd dnf

Got Rained off after first pitch. :( we'll be back

p.j.deacon 25/Jul/14 AltLd dog

Easy climbing of grade 5+, but do not underestimate how long and sustained this route is with 35-40m pitches! That is what makes it 6a. 13 quick draws required and be comfortable with hanging belays, you will be on them for a long time and they are not the best design up there.....be prepared for some numb legs. But well worth doing :-) Pay at the restaurant at the top of the dam.

GeorgeNunn ?/Jul/14 AltLd

Technically easy through out with big holds, maybe 5,5+ max. The 6a grade is given for the very sustained steep climbing. Do not underestimate this part. Also, make sure you have a nice harness as the hanging belays have to be some of the worst ones i have ever experienced :)

with pat
nadeem 16/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Fun

david morse 02/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with lole
68 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 4
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set