Rockfax Description
II, 700m, 3 - 4 hours. A good beginners' route which provides a wonderful quiet summit without requiring any technical climbing, just a bit of a head for heights on the final ridge. Having crossed the Glacier de Tré la Tête, gain the Glacier du Mont Tondu by picking the best line through the moraine. In good conditions it might be possible to climb up from directly underneath the Col du Mont Tondu, but generally it is necessary to go to the northeast tip of the Glacier du Mont Tondu and start from here. Gaining the glacier via snow is preferable to trying to scramble on rock so choose the option with the best snow cover. Climb the glacier to where it joins the Northwest Ridge and follow the ridge easily in a stunning position to the top of the Pain de Sucre. Many people stop here but carrying on to the top of Mont Tondu is well worth the effort. The rocky ridge linking the two peaks is exposed and requires a head for heights, but the technical difficulty is low and an experienced hillwalker/scrambler should have no trouble with it. The summit is wonderful, with expansive views.
Descent - Descend the Normal Route. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Snow slopes 35-40 degrees, exposed but easy rocky summit ridge.

A. Hutter and Captain X with A. Magnin and N. Allantaz 19/Aug/1894

Ticklists: Mark's Alpine Ideas 2017.

Hidden 21/Jun/17 -
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
olekemi 30/Jun/15 Solo O/S

In descent.

with Ken B, Martin F
Hidden 13/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Iain_L_32 13/Jun/14 -
Hartz ?/Aug/13 -

with Johan, fell short of summit due to weather, only to Le Pain de Sucre, 3150m. Approached from Glacier de Tre-la-Tete.

Nigel Bond 28/Jun/12 Solo
with Bern Hardman
solfreak 26/Jun/11 Solo

Easy but due to low height snow was slushy in the ascent and even slushier in descent. Rocky ridge was quite exciting without the safety of a rope. Witnessed small rockfall on my way down.

Olli-C ?/Jul/09 -
with Niall, Dad
Phil Crudge ?/Jul/09 -
with Olli-C
rlrs ?/Sep/02 AltLd

In descent

Antony Mariani ?/Sep/02 AltLd O/S
with rlrs
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High f3
Mid f3
Low f3
High F+
Mid F+
Low F+
High F
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Low F
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