275m, 7 pitches.

Rockfax Description
HVS. An old and popular climb, the route was fully bolted briefly, but most of these have been removed - carry a light rack. Although there is only one hard pitch, it is a fairly committing undertaking. Climbers have occasionally got into trouble by not traversing right far enough on P4 (and P7 ). Start by the steps opposite the old electricity house, by the old bridge. Take great care not to drop anything towards the road.
1) 3, 44m. Follow the pillar leftwards to a 'netting' belay.
2) 4, 44m. Up the rib above to where the ridge levels out.
3) 2, 50m. Scramble easily up the ridge to a grassy terrace and cross this to a peg belay below and left of a groove in the wall.
4) 4+, 46m. Climb up rightwards (bolt) to the groove, and climb it for 3m, then pull onto the right edge. Follow a line of cracks up the wall to threads and traverse right for 10m to a stance.
5) 5+, 36m. Climb the polished groove (pegs and a bolts) and continue in the same line to belay on threads and an old bolt.
6) 4+, 20m. Climb the wall left of the belay (bolt) to a short wall. Trend right (pegs) to a slab and an exposed stance.
7) 4, 36m. Continue traversing right to a groove (possible belay) climb this and slabs above to the top.
Descent - Use the Terrace Descent, or continue to the top via a scramble and a ridge walk across the top. To descend from here, traverse the ridge until you reach houses, descend through these then head back left to the Terrace Descent © Rockfax

HP9 18/Apr AltLd

Great route ! 5 hrs from car to car. Led 1 , 5 and 7. Pitch 5 , crux bolted.. small rack sufficient for the whole route, 3 0r 4 cams and 8 wires... on pitch 6 make sure to carry on past the first belay you reach and traverse around a corner to a belay on a ledge.

with Mark Hayes
Hidden 30/Dec/16 AltLd
Lyndsay Superclimber 30/Dec/16 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1,3,5&7. Split pitch 7 into two-definitely worth doing this to minimise rope drag and also get some great pics! Good bolts on the harder sections but definitely need a light rack for the others. Crux pitch was well protected and didn't seem too polished to us. Great route!

with Ryan
mayn8599 26/Nov/16 -

Great day out.

MoWalker3 10/Oct/16 -
with Doc, Derek Carter
gingerbex 20/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
alastairbegley 20/Mar/16 AltLd O/S

Enjoyable route, middle three pitches were excellent. The crux corner felt hard for 5+ and was very polished. Not sure it's worth three stars. http://mp-m.uk/8gBs6

MTL 29/Feb/16 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1, 3, 5 (crux), and 7 (final pitch). As others have said would be smart to split final pitch into two. We didn't and had a bit of trouble with rope drag and communication even with half ropes. Crux and last pitch really good, very airy!

PAJames ??/2016 -
Mark Eddy 03/Dec/15 Lead

A superb route in a very atmospheric setting. Work on the railway made it much noisier than might normally be the case. The crux pitch felt brilliant, but the best for me was the final traverse to the hanging belay below the corner. It's 8 pitches not 7!

with Kim Jackson, Kate
Hidden 03/Dec/15 2nd
MazElden 01/Dec/15 AltLd
tmawer 30/Nov/15 AltLd
MazElden 30/Nov/15 AltLd
swmackey 20/Nov/15 AltLd O/S
payney1973 20/Nov/15 2nd
Hidden 10/Nov/15 AltLd
jamie ward 04/Feb/15 Lead O/S

A superb route, the crux pitch is the best out the lot, 5+ with loads of protection, the 4/4+ pitches are top end VS

with Ellis Blower
Ellislee 02/Feb/15 2nd
tompilgrem 25/Dec/14 AltLd O/S
with Dad
bobpilgrem 25/Dec/14 AltLd O/S

A good way to spend Xmas day !

with Tom
Hidden 22/Nov/14 AltLd O/S
dmetcalfe 22/Nov/14 AltLd
carlh 31/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

An excellent day out and a good 'trad' feel to much of it. The polished groove is definitely 6a if climbed clean! Wish we'd picked a cooler day, as we were roasting throughout, but a good adventure and spectacular views. Climbed with John Makin.

Tony Holdsworth 07/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Actually pulled on a quick draw on the polished 5+ groove - I blame the heavy sack! Enjoyable day. Tom and Ollie finish Boulder Terminar just before dark.

with Mick Radford
Mick r 07/Mar/14 AltLd

i got the slimy groove pitch again...

with Tony H
Trev speariett ??/2014 AltLd
oliverpcain ??/2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14/Dec/13 AltLd
Hidden 20/Nov/13 AltLd O/S
Jonny Harrison 19/Nov/13 2nd O/S
with Tom Hanlon
scott mayled 17/Nov/13 Lead O/S

By far the best climb I done while here although the 5+ pitch is a bit of a sandbag, last pitch is in a great position.

with A student
tdoyle 30/Oct/13 AltLd O/S
with Wilky, Foxy
Juan Ruiz ?/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Led 1st and 4th

with David, Pablo Perea
DrJon 08/May/13 2nd O/S
with Henry, John
martin one 05/Nov/12 Lead O/S

Great route watch out for the loose snake on the last pitch or was that Flake!!!!!!!!

with sarah
Hidden 05/Nov/12 -
Hidden 05/Nov/12 2nd O/S
jak.kelly 01/Nov/12 AltLd O/S
Zoomer 23/May/12 AltLd

Day off from teaching. Excellent long and, at times, exposed route. 2nd pitch start is F5 and belay at the top of the long groove has several large and loose boulders poised to go, be careful.

gingergeorge 23/May/12 AltLd
Hidden 15/May/12 2nd
Dave Sr 22/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Funny and good but 2 stars are enought because of first and third pitches are a bag of sand and the sixth exposed stance is very old, so inoperating and you must to get to the top in 1 long aukwardy final pitch. Hard v+, suggest 6a.

with Marta, Berta
Hidden 04/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
Lev 04/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
with Helen Ross, Adrian Ross, Emma Ross
Hidden 02/Apr/12 AltLd
JonnoP 30/Mar/12 AltLd

Should have read more route descriptions as we didn't traverse right far enough and ended up on something far harder that wasn't part of any route. Nice climb to that point, though.

with Paul Burke
sgl 18/Feb/12 AltLd
with ben
Peter Metcalfe 23/Dec/11 Lead
with Terry Sullivan, Cath Sullivan
Ash_Johnson ?/Nov/11 AltLd O/S

7 pitch, 296 meters. HVS in the book but a pretty cheeky crack.

Tenko 13/Oct/11 AltLd
with Guy Williams
joscott ?/Sep/11 2nd
with Sun and Rock
1918hasti 11/Jul/11 2nd
Goose4 01/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with David Baggaley, Carl Mortimer
Chriswallis2 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Anna
beckybray1 25/Mar/11 2nd
rgd1977 25/Mar/11 Lead

Great day out, highly recommended, watch out for loose holds tho, the descent from the terrace is well marked with cairns all the way down to the road. At the end of the 4th pitch traverse right along a ledge until you get to "UBSA" engraved into the rock, this will lead to the 5+ polished groove and not the harder looking groove you could end up on if you don't traverse far enough.

matjam 17/Mar/11 AltLd

lead pitches two ((4), four (4+), six (4+), and top half of seven (4). Seconded pitches pitch one (3), three (2), five (5+) and first half of seven (4).

Jonathan Emett 27/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

1,3,5,7,9. pitch 5 is 6a I reckon. fantastic route, feels like trad - with bolts at the hard bits. had an epic on the descent; if you do the extra two pitches, don't assume the road will get you down easily; the terrace descent takes you over the AP7 and the railway - whereas the road doesn't. we took 7 hours from the gorge to the summit.

with karen
bigdan050 17/Nov/10 AltLd dnf

Trad. first 3 pitches only abbed off in rain

with steve H, steve R
31770 26/May/10 -
with Ian Johnson
Hidden 30/Mar/10 Lead O/S
toby2000 ?/Mar/10 -
auld al ?/Jan/10 AltLd
Hidden 23/Nov/09 Lead
Adderbury Climber 23/Nov/09 2nd O/S
John Roe 16/Nov/09 AltLd

Led pitches 1,3,5 & 7, good climbing worth the stars

with Justin (Ratty) Burgoyne, Paul (Chips) Rafferty
Liam FLeming 05/Nov/09 AltLd
Mark Fairhurst 03/May/09 AltLd O/S
Rob Davies 17/Apr/09 AltLd

Good day out. Crux HVS 5b, distinctly polished. Pitch above is very exposed with bendy pegs for runners but easy.

with Mark Gear
karly54 03/Feb/09 AltLd O/S
with Peter Goodwin
Hidden 02/Jan/09 AltLd
gjd ?/Dec/08 AltLd
with Joe
John HW 29/Nov/08 AltLd
with Cath
RCrockford 24/Nov/08 AltLd O/S

Moved together pitches 1, 3. Lead pitch 5.

with Andy G, Andy C
Hidden 09/Nov/08 Lead
gordon henderson 22/Oct/08 AltLd O/S
with Chris
crisaitken 22/Oct/08 AltLd

I only lead pitch 3 & 7

Martin Bennett 05/May/08 -
with SF
barni 02/May/08 AltLd O/S
with tom machine
Conan 23/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Richard Munro
Hidden ?/Apr/08 Lead
Hidden 24/Mar/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Mar/08 AltLd
Danhan 23/Mar/08 AltLd
with Nick
Andrew Sloan 13/Mar/08 AltLd O/S
with Steve Grove
mjeffery 28/Feb/08 AltLd O/S
Chris the Tall 10/Feb/08 AltLd

All the way from the river bed to the summit and back again in 10 pitches, some scrambing and a lot of walking. But a brilliant route with some stuuning exposure. Led the even pitches, mostly around 4/4+ and left Nick with the scrappy stuff and the polished crux

Hidden 10/Feb/08 AltLd O/S
Phil PBC ??/2008 -
haydng 16/Nov/07 AltLd O/S
with Rachel
Dax 06/Nov/07 AltLd O/S

Awesome route .. just keeps on going. Before you now it your sitting at a stance that feels like your on top of the world.

with Mike
The Bad Cough 10/Oct/07 AltLd O/S
Sylvi 18/Nov/06 AltLd
with Andy L
Hidden 13/Nov/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Oct/06 AltLd
Hidden 09/Apr/06 2nd O/S
LAW 24/Feb/06 2nd O/S

A fantastic climb, highly recommended.

with Justin N, Mark B
mikelaing ??/2006 -
Ramon Marin 25/Apr/05 AltLd O/S
with Gavin Lim
Hidden ??/2005 AltLd
Hidden ?/Dec/04 AltLd
John Brayshaw 19/Mar/04 AltLd O/S
with Chris
Hidden ??/2004 AltLd
chrishedgehog 01/May/02 AltLd O/S
with Joe Thompson
Hidden 13/Feb/02 2nd
The Pulsing Motorik of Neu! 13/Apr/01 AltLd O/S
with Rebecca
cem 30/Nov/00 Lead O/S
with Miles Butteriss
csalvage 10/Apr/00 2nd
with Mal Cameron
tjekel ?/Dec/98 -
Shaw Brown 15/Mar/97 -
with cliff brown
ed woods ?/Mar/97 -
with Rob & Winnick
Hidden ?/Feb/97 Lead
lost.arrow 24/Dec/96 AltLd

A great route, but we soon caught up with some slow climbers. They had started at 8:30, we at 11:00, by 13:00 we had caught them. This meant climbing the last pitch in the dark, so I wasn't in the right frame of mind for the last 2 pitches, or the beautiful sunset. We then had to stumble our way off in torch light. Where were our slow coaches now!

with Iain Kerr
lost.arrow 24/Dec/96 AltLd

A great route, but we soon caught up with some slow climbers. They had started at 8:30, we at 11:00, by 13:00 we had caught them. This meant climbing the last pitch in the dark, so I wasn't in the right frame of mind for the last 2 pitches, or the beautiful sunset. We then had to stumble our way off in torch light. Where were our slow coaches now!

with Iain Kerr
Mick r 07/Mar/95 AltLd O/S
with Jim Kirkwood
Hidden ??/1995 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1993 Lead O/S
Chris Ellis 08/Dec/92 AltLd
with Andy Barker
Budge ?/Feb/92 AltLd O/S
with Richard Teed
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High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 28
Votes cast 26
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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