Broken Heart into Trigger Cut

Dave Noden

Ally Smith 18/Feb Sent dnf

Bugger - not again! Sacked off 2nd kneebar and made progress. 4 good goes, but was 4th where i punted the move to the juggy shothole.

Ally Smith 11/Feb Sent dnf

Another DNF - sacked off second kneebar after pinging out of it on a good go. Reverted to single kneebar with toe-hook release and got high point with lefthand on 1st hold after shothole match. Venga!

Ally Smith 05/Feb Sent dnf

Got through into Trigger Cut twice. First go was new highpoint matching shothole with extra knee in, but need to practice the release/replacing the toe-hook. Also, remember to take longer stick with you to have rope/biner ready to grab. Practiced exit of AF too, from heelhook, get higher crimp & intermediate guppy, and then roll knee on to rock and go again with lefthand to better hold and rock-over to clip.

Joe Lawson 04/Feb Sent x

Probably 8A with knees

with Doylo, Derw, Psyche Mike
Ally Smith 29/Jan Sent dnf

New high point with hand in shothole but cocked up the match - need to try the extra kneebar method?

with csheps, Ted Kingsnorth
Ally Smith 05/Jan Sent dnf

Beta: Broken Heart start as per normal to kneebar on higher smeary foothold. RH to second slopey hold. Either - go from smeary foothold, or LF lowest smear of RHS of groovelet, and move RF down to little edge and relocate kneebar (check to see if this move works without the footsie sequence?) LF toe-hooking lower hold and then static LH to TC starting slot. LF on next toe-hook out, squeeze hard and take kneebar out and put heel hook in. RH to TC starting sloper pinch. LF to match on RF heel-hook, in the same sideways foot method i use for the stand-up. Bum high and RF to little nick and R-knee into sharp kneebar. LF flagging and LH into undercut. LF on to tiny edge, bounce RH to trigger hold. LF to smear, and push body hard to get RH into shot-hole. LF on dimpled edge, RF to TC drop knee hold and LF toe-hooking just R of LH. Release LH undercut and get matched in shot-hole via whatever intermediate you need (shoulder stretches needed for this). LF to big triangle thing, RF heel-hook next to kneebar nick. LH, LH, RH to scum instead of HH and go to finishing slot. Avoid campus move by RF next to TC hold and get finishing jug. SMASH ON INTO ALMOST FAMILIAR FOR f8b/+ tick :-)

Hidden ??/2016 -
Ally Smith 16/Apr/15 Sent dnf

Account opened

with Ted Kingsnorth
lx 24/Mar/15 Sent

Knee pad and knee bars on trigger cut - V11

with Zoe spriggins
doylo 16/Oct/12 Sent
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High f8B
Mid f8B
Low f8B
High f8A+
Mid f8A+
Low f8A+
High f8A
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Style of ascent
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