Broken Heart into Trigger Cut

Dave Noden


ClimberDateStyle
Ally Smith 06/Apr Sent x

Finally sealed the deal - 9th session since Jan (and a little tickle last year). Punted the last move to the pocket half a dozen times.

with Ted Kingsnorth
Joe Lawson 04/Feb Sent x

Probably 8A with knees

with Doylo, Derw, Psyche Mike
Ally Smith 05/Jan Sent dnf

Beta: Broken Heart start as per normal to kneebar on higher smeary foothold. RH to second slopey hold. Either - go from smeary foothold, or LF lowest smear of RHS of groovelet, and move RF down to little edge and relocate kneebar (check to see if this move works without the footsie sequence?) LF toe-hooking lower hold and then static LH to TC starting slot. LF on next toe-hook out, squeeze hard and take kneebar out and put heel hook in. RH to TC starting sloper pinch. LF to match on RF heel-hook, in the same sideways foot method i use for the stand-up. Bum high and RF to little nick and R-knee into sharp kneebar. LF flagging and LH into undercut. LF on to tiny edge, bounce RH to trigger hold. LF to smear, and push body hard to get RH into shot-hole. LF on dimpled edge, RF to TC drop knee hold and LF toe-hooking just R of LH. Release LH undercut and get matched in shot-hole via whatever intermediate you need (shoulder stretches needed for this). LF to big triangle thing, RF heel-hook next to kneebar nick. LH, LH, RH to scum instead of HH and go to finishing slot. Avoid campus move by RF next to TC hold and get finishing jug. SMASH ON INTO ALMOST FAMILIAR FOR f8b/+ tick :-)

Hidden ??/2016 -
lx 24/Mar/15 Sent

Knee pad and knee bars on trigger cut - V11

with Zoe spriggins
doylo 16/Oct/12 Sent
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Voting
High f8A+
Mid f8A+
Low f8A+
High f8A
Mid f8A
Low f8A
High f7C+
Mid f7C+
Low f7C+
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 2
Style of ascent
Bouldered
Not Set
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set