UKC

Restricted Access

Parking is at the beach end near some public toilets. Between South Stack and Trearddur Bay. Coastal paths lead in both directions for access. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

There are nesting choughs near “Yellow Brick Road”, and at “The Hanging Basket of Babylon” to “The Blue Horse”. Please avoid all of these routes during nesting seasons. 

25m.

Rockfax Description
A tremendous route up the corner which is easier than it looks. Bridge up the corner with a hard move at the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
2 zawns on from Smog Monster wall, left looking out to sea, a south facing corner forms Fisherman's Friend, abseil in.

Ticklists

Rab 'Pocket a Prize' Competition: Libby's Lines, Lesser-Known North Wales Classics , 3 Star - North Wales HS - HVS

Feedback

User Date Notes
ipfreely 30 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Steady, probably Severe, 1 tricky ish move near the top. Make your own ab point right above the route at. 53’17’5”N 4’39’6”W
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Steady, probably Severe, 1 tricky ish move near the top. Make your own ab point right above the route at. 53’17’5”N 4’39’6”W
mmd 3 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: It is Not HS and only a few moves at severe, the rest is steady. Plenty of gear. We accesed 1 hour just after HT on a 5.0m porth dafach tide. So accessable a few hours after HT if there is no swell. Ab down the line 30 m ab rope suffice
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It is Not HS and only a few moves at severe, the rest is steady. Plenty of gear. We accesed 1 hour just after HT on a 5.0m porth dafach tide. So accessable a few hours after HT if there is no swell. Ab down the line 30 m ab rope suffice
THE.WALRUS 26 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Great climb - well protected throughout, probably abit of a soft touch for Hard Severe. Abseil down the line on good runners. One for low tide.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great climb - well protected throughout, probably abit of a soft touch for Hard Severe. Abseil down the line on good runners. One for low tide.
Butty 12 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: A great little pitch, solid rock and gear... Abseil the line
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A great little pitch, solid rock and gear... Abseil the line
Butty 3 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: A great pitch in a superb location, super steady climbing with a well protected crux at the top. We absailed the line off good gear in the right wall....
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A great pitch in a superb location, super steady climbing with a well protected crux at the top. We absailed the line off good gear in the right wall....

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Porth Dafarch

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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 12
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 10
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
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