Parking is at the beach end near some public toilets. Between South Stack and Trearddur Bay. Coastal paths lead in both directions for access.
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
There are nesting choughs near “Yellow Brick Road”, and at “The Hanging Basket of Babylon” to “The Blue Horse”. Please avoid all of these routes during nesting seasons.
Rockfax Description
A tremendous route up the corner which is easier than it looks. Bridge up the corner with a hard move at the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
2 zawns on from Smog Monster wall, left looking out to sea, a south facing corner forms Fisherman's Friend, abseil in.
Rab 'Pocket a Prize' Competition: Libby's Lines, Lesser-Known North Wales Classics , 3 Star - North Wales HS - HVS
User | Date | Notes | ||
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ipfreely | 30 Aug, 2023 |
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βeta: Steady, probably Severe, 1 tricky ish move near the top. Make your own ab point right above the route at. 53’17’5”N 4’39’6”W | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Steady, probably Severe, 1 tricky ish move near the top. Make your own ab point right above the route at. 53’17’5”N 4’39’6”W |
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mmd | 3 Apr, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: It is Not HS and only a few moves at severe, the rest is steady. Plenty of gear. We accesed 1 hour just after HT on a 5.0m porth dafach tide. So accessable a few hours after HT if there is no swell. Ab down the line 30 m ab rope suffice | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: It is Not HS and only a few moves at severe, the rest is steady. Plenty of gear. We accesed 1 hour just after HT on a 5.0m porth dafach tide. So accessable a few hours after HT if there is no swell. Ab down the line 30 m ab rope suffice |
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THE.WALRUS | 26 May, 2022 |
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βeta: Great climb - well protected throughout, probably abit of a soft touch for Hard Severe. Abseil down the line on good runners. One for low tide. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Great climb - well protected throughout, probably abit of a soft touch for Hard Severe. Abseil down the line on good runners. One for low tide. |
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Butty | 12 Sep, 2021 |
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βeta: A great little pitch, solid rock and gear... Abseil the line | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: A great little pitch, solid rock and gear... Abseil the line |
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Butty | 3 Jul, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: A great pitch in a superb location, super steady climbing with a well protected crux at the top. We absailed the line off good gear in the right wall.... | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: A great pitch in a superb location, super steady climbing with a well protected crux at the top. We absailed the line off good gear in the right wall.... |
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