155m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
E1. A great mountain route. Start below the long groove which goes the full length of the face. A full rack is required, and the route can be done in three huge pitches if required.
1) 5, 25m. Climb the corner to a cave which has a bolt belay.
2) 5, 25m. Continue up the corner to another bolt belay.
3) 5+, 30m. Follow the corner to a peg. Move right across the wall (a devious move) to a good ledge and bolt belay.
4) 4, 25m. Move up then follow grooves and cracks leftwards to belay back in the main groove.
5) 6a, 50m. Climb up to another ledge and a possible belay. Move up to the roof above then a hard move right leads into a corner. Up this, then left to another corner which leads to the top. Abseil off from here or the pillar above leads to the top in four more pitches (grade 4 ). © Rockfax

FA. H.García Gallego 1980

Ticklists

Costa Blanca "Must Do" routes, ROCKFAX Costa Blanca: Top 50

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UserDateNotes
Chris the Tall 22 Jan, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant route which can be done in 3 pitches if you have 60m ropes (and at least 16 quick draws). Very sustained and the crux is a full on gritstone thrutch with a lot of fresh air below you
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Brilliant route which can be done in 3 pitches if you have 60m ropes (and at least 16 quick draws). Very sustained and the crux is a full on gritstone thrutch with a lot of fresh air below you
Ramon Marin 1 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A very good route. Very sustained with a magnificent long top out. Bridging on the crux is the key
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A very good route. Very sustained with a magnificent long top out. Bridging on the crux is the key
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Butel 7 Mar Lead O/S Defo a top 50 route. Lead all 5 pitches. Thought the last pitch was a bit of a sandbag at the grade. Felt E2 despite the in situ sling and pegs. All pitches are full value. Good gear all the way. Belays all bolted which is nice. Ab down is a nice neat line.
with Dunc S
Defo a top 50 route. Lead all 5 pitches. Thought the last pitch was a bit of a sandbag at the grade. Felt E2 despite the in situ sling and pegs. All pitches are full value. Good gear all the way. Belays all bolted which is nice. Ab down is a nice neat line.
with Dunc S
Alpinelegend69 ?Mar AltLd O/S Three mega pitches. Crux was extra spicy with some poor quality tat and one rusty peg. Fantastic climb
Three mega pitches. Crux was extra spicy with some poor quality tat and one rusty peg. Fantastic climb
Hidden 14 Feb 2nd
George_Surf 4 Feb Lead O/S In 3 big 55m pitches. Found it to all be about e1 like this. P1+2 is a great long corner, tons of laybackint. P4 isn’t the most obvious; you move up above the stance and trend left after ~10m, left of a big detached block with tat on it. The crux pitch isn’t too bad at 6a, it’s really safe (bolt?) and then a big thread under the roof (can be aided) with a few moves on crimps and undercuts. The tat at the top needs chopping and replacing with 1 good bit!! Made it down in the abseils; 50/55/45m. Took us about 3hrs?
In 3 big 55m pitches. Found it to all be about e1 like this. P1+2 is a great long corner, tons of laybackint. P4 isn’t the most obvious; you move up above the stance and trend left after ~10m, left of a big detached block with tat on it. The crux pitch isn’t too bad at 6a, it’s really safe (bolt?) and then a big thread under the roof (can be aided) with a few moves on crimps and undercuts. The tat at the top needs chopping and replacing with 1 good bit!! Made it down in the abseils; 50/55/45m. Took us about 3hrs?
rachelpearce01 4 Feb 2nd O/S Great rest day climb. We had hoped to do the other 6a+ top 50 after but overestimated our abilities and enjoyed a sunny afternoon instead. George led it in 3 monster pitches. Took about 3 hours from start until we were back down at bags
Great rest day climb. We had hoped to do the other 6a+ top 50 after but overestimated our abilities and enjoyed a sunny afternoon instead. George led it in 3 monster pitches. Took about 3 hours from start until we were back down at bags
marcusinbristol 19 Jan Lead O/S Fantastic climb, quality all the way, not polished at all, definitely top50, last pitch felt hard for 6a but the tricky moves are protected by a bolt
Fantastic climb, quality all the way, not polished at all, definitely top50, last pitch felt hard for 6a but the tricky moves are protected by a bolt
Hidden 8 Jan AltLd O/S
adamsriches 25 Dec, 2018 AltLd O/S Lead P1, P3 and P5. Might have gone off route on P3, not sure. P5 was incredible. Did the final grade 4 pitches to reach the descent route. The descent being far more stressful than the climb itself!
with Tutu
Lead P1, P3 and P5. Might have gone off route on P3, not sure. P5 was incredible. Did the final grade 4 pitches to reach the descent route. The descent being far more stressful than the climb itself!
with Tutu
Tutu 25 Dec, 2018 AltLd O/S
mjeffery 12 Nov, 2018 AltLd O/S
southern_smit 7 Nov, 2018 AltLd awesome line, one of my best mountain routes. really enjoyed adding the final 4 extra pitches to top out. would agree each pitch felt just a little hard for the grade
awesome line, one of my best mountain routes. really enjoyed adding the final 4 extra pitches to top out. would agree each pitch felt just a little hard for the grade
dmorgan27 16 Oct, 2018 AltLd All pitches seemed one grade higher than listed. The 6a pitch at the top was really tough, we split the belay.
All pitches seemed one grade higher than listed. The 6a pitch at the top was really tough, we split the belay.
gingernick 16 Oct, 2018 AltLd Amazing day
Amazing day
jonathan_doyle 31 Mar, 2018 AltLd O/S Lead in 3 big pitches. I lead p3 and 4. Another incredible route, flowed beautifully. Got a bit off route on p4 and ended up 5m right of the belay bolts. The final pitch was phenomenal, wonderfully exposed involving three-dimensional thinking.
Lead in 3 big pitches. I lead p3 and 4. Another incredible route, flowed beautifully. Got a bit off route on p4 and ended up 5m right of the belay bolts. The final pitch was phenomenal, wonderfully exposed involving three-dimensional thinking.
Matt Amos 31 Mar, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 30 Mar, 2018 AltLd
alexkitts 30 Mar, 2018 AltLd O/S Stunning climbing on every pitch - some quite gripping moves on the last pitch - prob harder than E1
Stunning climbing on every pitch - some quite gripping moves on the last pitch - prob harder than E1
ClimberJimmyB 30 Mar, 2018 AltLd
Hidden 26 Mar, 2018 AltLd O/S
Kyuzo 25 Mar, 2018 -
with Joe Prinold
with Joe Prinold
CharleyAnn 11 Mar, 2018 2nd
robgixer 11 Mar, 2018 Lead O/S Great route, top pitch is really good and feels solid E1
Great route, top pitch is really good and feels solid E1
dicky79 7 Mar, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Pete
with Pete
rkoelner 7 Mar, 2018 Lead O/S A superb route which we haven’t finished, unfortunately. We did the first 4 pitches and they felt like: 5+, 5, 5+/6a, 4+. The first pitch offers some great climbing in the groove with great protection. The 3rd pitch has this short crux section with some delicate moves through the slab (climb to the peg), and it’s quite scary because the slab does not look very convincing. However, after a couple of meters it gets much easier and leads you to the belay. The final pith is supposed to be one hard section at 6a+, and a lot of crag climbing for 6a.
with Marcin Wodnicki
A superb route which we haven’t finished, unfortunately. We did the first 4 pitches and they felt like: 5+, 5, 5+/6a, 4+. The first pitch offers some great climbing in the groove with great protection. The 3rd pitch has this short crux section with some delicate moves through the slab (climb to the peg), and it’s quite scary because the slab does not look very convincing. However, after a couple of meters it gets much easier and leads you to the belay. The final pith is supposed to be one hard section at 6a+, and a lot of crag climbing for 6a.
with Marcin Wodnicki
john lynch 21 Feb, 2018 AltLd O/S Did in 3 big pitches. Nice wee day out.
with Lewis Andrew
Did in 3 big pitches. Nice wee day out.
with Lewis Andrew
hfotheri 26 Dec, 2017 AltLd O/S great last pitch! Felt like we were going to get blown off the mountain on the descent.
with simon
great last pitch! Felt like we were going to get blown off the mountain on the descent.
with simon
Octavian 22 Dec, 2017 AltLd
DJayB 6 Dec, 2017 AltLd O/S Wow what a belter. Did in three big pitches. Interesting and varied climbing throughout. Bolted belays but still retains mountain trad feel. Can't recommend enough.
Wow what a belter. Did in three big pitches. Interesting and varied climbing throughout. Bolted belays but still retains mountain trad feel. Can't recommend enough.
chris2451 6 Dec, 2017 AltLd O/S
with DJayB
with DJayB
Pero 24 Nov, 2017 AltLd Led P2 and P4.
Led P2 and P4.
topsyturvy 24 Nov, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Pero
with Pero
Dawn_K_B 22 Feb, 2017 AltLd dnf Abbed off after 3 pitches, started too late and moving too slowly. Led P1 and found it hard, would agree with previous comments of it being hard for the grade, or maybe I've just got a sore ego!
Abbed off after 3 pitches, started too late and moving too slowly. Led P1 and found it hard, would agree with previous comments of it being hard for the grade, or maybe I've just got a sore ego!
td72 16 Feb, 2017 Lead O/S Superb top pitch. Couldn't find the peg before the 'devious step left' but the ledge is pretty obvious.
with katie93
Superb top pitch. Couldn't find the peg before the 'devious step left' but the ledge is pretty obvious.
with katie93
katie93 16 Feb, 2017 2nd Hard in the grade. 5+ 5+, 5, 5, 6a+
with td72
Hard in the grade. 5+ 5+, 5, 5, 6a+
with td72
MDowson ?Feb, 2017 AltLd O/S Mega!
with sam webb
Mega!
with sam webb
Aminious 5 Jan, 2017 2nd
with Jonny livesey
with Jonny livesey
metrorat 5 Jan, 2017 Lead O/S One of the best E1 multipitches I've done. Interesting sustained climbing on all pitches. Felt hard for the grade but the glut of fixed gear on the crux detracted from the thrill. No need for those pegs! Lead all pitches, the last one is a monster!
with Amy Wight
One of the best E1 multipitches I've done. Interesting sustained climbing on all pitches. Felt hard for the grade but the glut of fixed gear on the crux detracted from the thrill. No need for those pegs! Lead all pitches, the last one is a monster!
with Amy Wight
Hidden ?Dec, 2016 Lead
Hidden 6 Apr, 2016 AltLd
alastairbegley 28 Mar, 2016 Lead O/S Amazing route, 5 excellent pitches with sustained climbing, no polish in an excellent position. Grades seemed a bit off to me, felt more like 5+,5,5,5+,6a+. No bolts on the climbing, just bolted belays. Crux felt hard, but very safe. http://mp-m.uk/3SKz6
Amazing route, 5 excellent pitches with sustained climbing, no polish in an excellent position. Grades seemed a bit off to me, felt more like 5+,5,5,5+,6a+. No bolts on the climbing, just bolted belays. Crux felt hard, but very safe. http://mp-m.uk/3SKz6
gingerbex 28 Mar, 2016 2nd O/S P1 felt like 5+, maybe 6a. P3 5, p4 5+ p5 6a+
P1 felt like 5+, maybe 6a. P3 5, p4 5+ p5 6a+
Hidden 2 Mar, 2016 AltLd
Small and weak ?Mar, 2016 AltLd
HansStuttgart ?Jan, 2016 - very windy, almost blown over on the approach, on the route it was fine. 4th pitch was no walkover for a 4....
very windy, almost blown over on the approach, on the route it was fine. 4th pitch was no walkover for a 4....
tmawer 2 Dec, 2015 AltLd O/S Good physical route.Top pitch quite tough.
Good physical route.Top pitch quite tough.
MazElden 2 Dec, 2015 AltLd
with tmawer
with tmawer
craig naylor 11 Jan, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Tony
with Tony
alpinismo.uk 18 Dec, 2014 AltLd O/S Exciting 6a pitch, also not sure if missed the last belay / ab point, but found a load of tat of a big block & small thread at the end of the route, glad we took some tat to leave, all other belay points bolted
Exciting 6a pitch, also not sure if missed the last belay / ab point, but found a load of tat of a big block & small thread at the end of the route, glad we took some tat to leave, all other belay points bolted
redshapedfriday 18 Dec, 2014 AltLd Great route would really recommend. Steady climbing through out, found the crux managable but pumpy.
with Debs Climber
Great route would really recommend. Steady climbing through out, found the crux managable but pumpy.
with Debs Climber
scottyskier82 3 Nov, 2014 AltLd O/S A great day out although it felt hard for the grade. Exciting
with Ben Brierley
A great day out although it felt hard for the grade. Exciting
with Ben Brierley
froglette 9 Oct, 2014 2nd dog Awesome!Rapped down from last pitch.
with John Proudfoot
Awesome!Rapped down from last pitch.
with John Proudfoot
NickJH 19 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Andy Dunhill
with Andy Dunhill
SPK06 ?Apr, 2014 AltLd
with tony
with tony
mark4344 30 Mar, 2014 AltLd O/S Needed a full trad rack as only belays bolted. Also did in 5 pitches as had to re-use cams.took 5 hours including 3 abseils to return.Top pitch ok, just delicate, but good pro.
with dereck
Needed a full trad rack as only belays bolted. Also did in 5 pitches as had to re-use cams.took 5 hours including 3 abseils to return.Top pitch ok, just delicate, but good pro.
with dereck
JHC 28 Mar, 2014 AltLd Abbed off end of P4 due to weather
Abbed off end of P4 due to weather
Sam Watson 28 Mar, 2014 AltLd dnf Shivering in the wind by end of P4, came back down.
with JHC
Shivering in the wind by end of P4, came back down.
with JHC
Brian Dalrymple 10 Mar, 2014 TR O/S Supervision of SouthWeast ACF Cadets
with Colin Davies
Supervision of SouthWeast ACF Cadets
with Colin Davies
Brian Dalrymple 10 Mar, 2014 TR O/S Supervision of SouthWeast ACF Cadets
with Colin Davies
Supervision of SouthWeast ACF Cadets
with Colin Davies
mrteale 7 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S
saaruli 27 Dec, 2013 AltLd O/S
with erik..
with erik..
Hidden 27 Dec, 2013 AltLd O/S
HappyTrundler 23 Nov, 2013 AltLd Superb adventure route, good rock, great positions, crux was hard for 6a, well bolted though, and safe.
with Irish Pete
Superb adventure route, good rock, great positions, crux was hard for 6a, well bolted though, and safe.
with Irish Pete
Hidden 9 Feb, 2013 AltLd O/S
Jonathan Emett 20 Apr, 2012 2nd O/S seconded p1. I was so unpsyched I lowered off and walked home :(
with dr steve, alain
seconded p1. I was so unpsyched I lowered off and walked home :(
with dr steve, alain
Steve Hillier 20 Apr, 2012 AltLd O/S
with alan cooney
with alan cooney
alan1234 20 Apr, 2012 AltLd O/S
charlesmfrench ??, 2012 AltLd O/S Great climb. Interesting and balanced with a strenuous finish.
with Anette
Great climb. Interesting and balanced with a strenuous finish.
with Anette
Adam Romaine 11 Apr, 2011 AltLd dnf seconded pitches 1-3 and lead pitch 4, last pitch and crux was lead by Pete, i didnt attempt it.
with Pete Mayhew
seconded pitches 1-3 and lead pitch 4, last pitch and crux was lead by Pete, i didnt attempt it.
with Pete Mayhew
Hidden 31 Mar, 2011 Lead
Hidden 26 Mar, 2011 AltLd
knicos 26 Mar, 2011 AltLd led crux pitch
with Luke Dyer
led crux pitch
with Luke Dyer
dan ely 19 Jan, 2011 AltLd O/S i lead p 1,2,3. Top pitch split in 2.
with scottish scott
i lead p 1,2,3. Top pitch split in 2.
with scottish scott
charlesmfrench ??, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Keith Milne, Anette
with Keith Milne, Anette
gjd 29 Oct, 2009 AltLd O/S Jim lead the odd pitches.
Jim lead the odd pitches.
Jo Morrison 18 May, 2008 Lead β First pitch only. 5
with Skinny
First pitch only. 5
with Skinny
derico 17 Mar, 2008 Lead O/S
with George W
with George W
dan gibson 10 Dec, 2007 Lead O/S
with sam read
with sam read
Hidden ?Dec, 2007 AltLd O/S
jamie ward 5 Apr, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Marcus Harvey
with Marcus Harvey
dave o ?Dec, 2006 AltLd O/S
Chris the Tall 21 Jan, 2006 AltLd Done in 3 50m pitches (5,5+,6a). Led first and third. Fog rolled in and then the ropes got stuck......
Done in 3 50m pitches (5,5+,6a). Led first and third. Fog rolled in and then the ropes got stuck......
Bella 25 Dec, 2005 AltLd O/S Fantastic route!
with Chris
Fantastic route!
with Chris
Hidden 13 Dec, 2005 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Sep, 2005 AltLd O/S
Shaw Brown 28 Apr, 2005 Lead O/S
Peter Metcalfe 28 Apr, 2005 2nd Four solid 5+ pitches then a strenous roof and corner followed by a completely "out-there" move onto a nose. Brilliant route.
Four solid 5+ pitches then a strenous roof and corner followed by a completely "out-there" move onto a nose. Brilliant route.
Ramon Marin 25 Apr, 2005 AltLd O/S
with Gavin Lim
with Gavin Lim
Hidden 13 Jan, 2005 Lead O/S
Simonj ??, 2005 -
lost.arrow 14 Mar, 2001 AltLd
with Gill Heartly
with Gill Heartly
Dave Musgrove ?Feb, 2001 AltLd
with Ann Goudi
with Ann Goudi
Hidden ?Dec, 2000 AltLd
csalvage 12 Apr, 2000 2nd O/S Repeated with Bryan 17/10/02
with Mal Cameron
Repeated with Bryan 17/10/02
with Mal Cameron
Lone Rider ??, 2000 AltLd
with Pete mayhew
with Pete mayhew
Mick King 28 Nov, 1997 AltLd O/S Karl led most the hard stuff. I led Ps 2 & 4
with Karl Lunt
Karl led most the hard stuff. I led Ps 2 & 4
with Karl Lunt
Neil McA 28 Dec, 1995 AltLd O/S Nice. felt like soft E2, 5a, 5a, 5a, 5a, 5b
with Clive Davis
Nice. felt like soft E2, 5a, 5a, 5a, 5a, 5b
with Clive Davis
Hidden ?Dec, 1991 Lead
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Voting
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 22
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set