150m, 6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
II, 160m, 3 hours. Most teams climb the route in mountaineering boots and the climbing lends itself more to foot jamming stiff soled boots than to smearing in rock shoes. The first pitch will feel tricky though if it is near your 'big-boot' limit.
Approach - Approach from either the Albert Premier or Cabane du Trients. From the Albert Premier, gain the Glacier du Tour and climb up and over the Fenêtre du Pissoir to reach the routes in 2 - 2.5 hours. From the Cabane du Trient, head southwest across the Trient Plateau and then contour around at 3150m until directly under the route in around 1.5 hours. Scramble up broken rocks to reach the first pitch, which begins at a distinctive V-notch.
1) 5a, 20m. Follow the furthest left crack above the V-notch for 8m, passing some pegs on the way, to a bolt at the foot of a corner. Ignore the temptation to clip the bolt (you'll get rope drag if you do) and make a 4m rightwards traverse onto a steep slab, passing two pegs on the way. At the second peg, go directly up to reach a bolt belay at the top of the corner that housed the bolt. The corner itself can be climbed at 5c.
2) 4b, 40m. Step down 2m and traverse right across a break for 10m to reach a corner. Climb the corner to a jammed block and then move right up a short crack and slab above to rejoin the ridge crest 5m before a steep tower.
3) 4a, 20m. Go to the foot of the tower then make a 5m downclimb on the Trient side of the ridge to reach a ledge system. Follow this rightwards to the foot of a deep chimney.
4) 5a, 30m. Climb the golden flakes to the right of the chimney until they end and then step left into the depths! Muster any style you can and thrutch your way over two chockstones to reach a slightly awkward belay on a spike with some very poor old tat around it.
5) 4b, 25m. Follow the cracked ridge to the right of the chimney until it levels out. Traverse right around a spike and belay at the foot of a steep cracked wall, directly below the summit.
6) 4c, 25m. Climb the cracked wall on the left to reach a large ledge. Ignore the deep, block-filled chimney above and step left to climb the right-slanting corner via some thrutchy, thuggish moves. Finish up a final easy chimney and belay on one of the many good spikes that make up the summit block.
Descent - Scramble down a couple of metres towards the Col Purtscheller to reach a bolted belay. Abseil in the direction of the col to reach another bolted anchor after 25m. A second abseil from here takes you to easy scrambling ground and it is possible to downclimb back to the glacier from here. There is also a series of anchors about 5m above the bergschrund so a third abseil is possible and might be a good idea in dry conditions when the glacier looks open. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
5a obl, 5b free. Description in English on camptocamp: http://www.camptocamp.org/routes/54077/en/aiguille-purtscheller-s-ridge-classical

R. Aubert, R. Dittert, F. Marullaz 16/May/1943

Ticklists

Escalades Choisies Mont-Blanc Aiguilles Rouges (60 Routes 4 to 6a+)

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UserDateNotes
Webster 1 Aug Show βeta
βeta: first pitch is 5a french free in boots, it would be harder not pulling on the wobbly pegs! the golden flakes are just waiting to be pulled off, but just get in the chimney from the bottom and thrutch away! you can pass under the chock stones in the chimney propper and emerge through a small gap with a conveniently placed rope to attach your bag to and push in front/pull up behind yourself
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: first pitch is 5a french free in boots, it would be harder not pulling on the wobbly pegs! the golden flakes are just waiting to be pulled off, but just get in the chimney from the bottom and thrutch away! you can pass under the chock stones in the chimney propper and emerge through a small gap with a conveniently placed rope to attach your bag to and push in front/pull up behind yourself
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Jake397 26 Aug AltLd
with Storme
with Storme
Storme 26 Aug AltLd I lead pitch 3 and alternative route up a chossy gully for pitches 4 and 5. Harder than expected.
with Jake397
I lead pitch 3 and alternative route up a chossy gully for pitches 4 and 5. Harder than expected.
with Jake397
Henrylmmorgan 23 Aug AltLd O/S Fantastic weather and no wind made for a great climb. Last two pitches stitched together nicely with 50m after pushing a little higher after the chimney. Having crampons on before abseiling onto the ice slope above the bergschrund was helpful to say the least!
with Chris Kwiatkowski
Fantastic weather and no wind made for a great climb. Last two pitches stitched together nicely with 50m after pushing a little higher after the chimney. Having crampons on before abseiling onto the ice slope above the bergschrund was helpful to say the least!
with Chris Kwiatkowski
Chrissyk88 23 Aug AltLd Fine route on perfect granite. Flakes at start of pitch 4 are awesome if a little loose. Last 2 pitches to summit went in one with a 50m rope by finishing pitch 4 higher up.
with Henry Morgan
Fine route on perfect granite. Flakes at start of pitch 4 are awesome if a little loose. Last 2 pitches to summit went in one with a 50m rope by finishing pitch 4 higher up.
with Henry Morgan
Henrylmmorgan 23 Aug AltLd O/S Fantastic weather and no wind made for a great climb. Last two pitches stitched together nicely with 50m after pushing a little higher after the chimney. Having crampons on before abseiling onto the ice slope above the bergschrund was helpful to say the least!
with Chris Kwiatkowski
Fantastic weather and no wind made for a great climb. Last two pitches stitched together nicely with 50m after pushing a little higher after the chimney. Having crampons on before abseiling onto the ice slope above the bergschrund was helpful to say the least!
with Chris Kwiatkowski
jamie.gartside 22 Aug 2nd O/S
with Paul Aspey
with Paul Aspey
paulaspey 22 Aug Lead
jamie.gartside 22 Aug 2nd O/S
with Paul Aspey, Ollie Pemberton
with Paul Aspey, Ollie Pemberton
Aled Williams 17 Aug Lead O/S Good route, but the approach and descent are buggered. All on black ice and scree making the whole thing time consuming. Made it with 10 mins to spare for the last chairlift
with JIMBO
Good route, but the approach and descent are buggered. All on black ice and scree making the whole thing time consuming. Made it with 10 mins to spare for the last chairlift
with JIMBO
Webster 1 Aug Lead O/S great little peak with excelent climbing
great little peak with excelent climbing
Tiktianc 1 Aug 2nd
Liam_T 19 Jul AltLd First Dificile route. Good climbing throughout, although the golden flakes feel like they’re ready to snap.
First Dificile route. Good climbing throughout, although the golden flakes feel like they’re ready to snap.
Hidden 12 Jul AltLd O/S
JohnHartley 12 Jul AltLd O/S After the arête de la table with Pete
After the arête de la table with Pete
gerry50kenny 10 Jul - Ex Trient hut. Excellent route. Found the chimney pitch difficult but found a way up and past the large chockstone. The lower golden flakes seem near ready to snap if pulled horizontally. Seemed ok to stand on them applying vertical pressure. We all agreed that pitch was under graded.
with Vincent Astier, Colm Peppard, Jeff Thomas
Ex Trient hut. Excellent route. Found the chimney pitch difficult but found a way up and past the large chockstone. The lower golden flakes seem near ready to snap if pulled horizontally. Seemed ok to stand on them applying vertical pressure. We all agreed that pitch was under graded.
with Vincent Astier, Colm Peppard, Jeff Thomas
Aled Williams 10 Jul Lead dnf Not sure on the date Led the first pitch and did the HVS variation in big boots. Calum took a fall on that pitch and when asked if he was alright responded "NO I CANT FEEL MY F**KING HANDS, WEVE BEEN UP SINCE 3am (turned back once as Sam started feeling really ill with diabetes) IM F**KING TIRED AND I HAVE TO CLIMB THIS SHIT IN BIG BOOTS. As he finished that sentence he bowed his head and screamed as hot aches took over. lol so we backed off
with Calum
Not sure on the date Led the first pitch and did the HVS variation in big boots. Calum took a fall on that pitch and when asked if he was alright responded "NO I CANT FEEL MY F**KING HANDS, WEVE BEEN UP SINCE 3am (turned back once as Sam started feeling really ill with diabetes) IM F**KING TIRED AND I HAVE TO CLIMB THIS SHIT IN BIG BOOTS. As he finished that sentence he bowed his head and screamed as hot aches took over. lol so we backed off
with Calum
vitaj 8 Jul - brutal route
brutal route
Chris Manasseh 24 Jun AltLd Mega; first unguided/tutored proper Alpine route. Led all except pitch 3. Took 5c direct line on first pitch. Used the peg for aid in the chimney.
with Fraser Jarvis
Mega; first unguided/tutored proper Alpine route. Led all except pitch 3. Took 5c direct line on first pitch. Used the peg for aid in the chimney.
with Fraser Jarvis
Cragcloud 26 Oct, 2018 AltLd O/S Great climb. The chimney is definitely harder than 5a. Did it in mountaineering boots.
with Paal Kristoffer Danielsen
Great climb. The chimney is definitely harder than 5a. Did it in mountaineering boots.
with Paal Kristoffer Danielsen
8PetrieC 5 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S
Tom McCabe 5 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S
Paal Kristoffer 2 Sep, 2018 Lead
with Henrik Overballe
with Henrik Overballe
Hidden 27 Aug, 2018 AltLd dnf
Hidden 27 Aug, 2018 AltLd dnf
CharlieMack 31 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S Good route. All in big boots. The first 5c pitch felt fine, think only 5b tops. The 5a chimney pitch felt nails. Could only clip the peg once I'd done the crux. Might be easier if you're taller. Tonnes of ab points on the way down. There's one actually on the summit block now too.
with Sarah adkin
Good route. All in big boots. The first 5c pitch felt fine, think only 5b tops. The 5a chimney pitch felt nails. Could only clip the peg once I'd done the crux. Might be easier if you're taller. Tonnes of ab points on the way down. There's one actually on the summit block now too.
with Sarah adkin
Rob Exile Ward 2 Jul, 2018 2nd First route of the trip - not easy at altitude and with sacs! Not to be underestimated. By the way - no idea why Rockfax recommends approach from Col du Tour, Col Superior du Tour is the obvious way to go from the Albert Premier.
with George
First route of the trip - not easy at altitude and with sacs! Not to be underestimated. By the way - no idea why Rockfax recommends approach from Col du Tour, Col Superior du Tour is the obvious way to go from the Albert Premier.
with George
kbow265 18 Jun, 2018 -
mchardski 17 Jun, 2018 Lead 1st pitch - rockfax says go right at the bolt for 5a, so i did and promptly shat my pants. Fair enough it probabaly is 5a in rockshoes but its slab which in my big boots gives me the willies, and didn't look protectable after the old rusty pegs which i didn't want to have to trust since the first one wobbled when i tested it. Going straight up the corner at 5c from the bolt looked much more protectable with a larger cam or perhaps 2, but could be hard in big boots if they don't fit in the cam-able crack. In the end, I downclimbed / reversed the move, and we followed a freindly guide who was going left, which isn't in either of my 2 topos. You sneak left (note, if you want to go this way then head this way from the ground up, start from same spot but head marginally left (easy) instead of straight up) along some airy but easy flakes / ledges on the north side of ridge, over a block (belay here), go around corner and up a corner crack, through a hole and pop out on the sunny side to get back on the rockfax route. The second 5a pitch (the one starting from the big slopey ledge, big layback flakes then stepping left int a chimney) can be averted by taking the easier chimney to the right (looks loose but is fine), which pops you out in the correct place to do 1 more pitch to the summit. We did this one, shame to miss out but Steph was having some issues and time dictated.
with Stephanie
1st pitch - rockfax says go right at the bolt for 5a, so i did and promptly shat my pants. Fair enough it probabaly is 5a in rockshoes but its slab which in my big boots gives me the willies, and didn't look protectable after the old rusty pegs which i didn't want to have to trust since the first one wobbled when i tested it. Going straight up the corner at 5c from the bolt looked much more protectable with a larger cam or perhaps 2, but could be hard in big boots if they don't fit in the cam-able crack. In the end, I downclimbed / reversed the move, and we followed a freindly guide who was going left, which isn't in either of my 2 topos. You sneak left (note, if you want to go this way then head this way from the ground up, start from same spot but head marginally left (easy) instead of straight up) along some airy but easy flakes / ledges on the north side of ridge, over a block (belay here), go around corner and up a corner crack, through a hole and pop out on the sunny side to get back on the rockfax route. The second 5a pitch (the one starting from the big slopey ledge, big layback flakes then stepping left int a chimney) can be averted by taking the easier chimney to the right (looks loose but is fine), which pops you out in the correct place to do 1 more pitch to the summit. We did this one, shame to miss out but Steph was having some issues and time dictated.
with Stephanie
mrbird 9 Jun, 2018 AltLd
Gawyllie 9 Jun, 2018 AltLd
with mrbird
with mrbird
harrig-01 ?Jun, 2018 AltLd Started the route at 1830, topped out at 8. Absail was quick and easy with plenty bolts. First alpine route and first alpine bivi.
with Angus
Started the route at 1830, topped out at 8. Absail was quick and easy with plenty bolts. First alpine route and first alpine bivi.
with Angus
Hoyes 3 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
A Reid 3 Aug, 2017 AltLd
with Al
with Al
Lumbering Oaf 3 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S In big boots with one 60 m rope. First pitch isn't that bad. Fourth pitch looks worse than it is. Lots of value for a short route - old school thrutching in places. Took us around 3.5 to 4.0 hrs to climb the route. Abseils off are in good order. The final two abseils can be run together to reach the glacier if you've the rope length. We managed as we were two ropes of two people each with 60 m ropes. Team ahead had to do the intermediate ab from a single bolt.
with Hoyes
In big boots with one 60 m rope. First pitch isn't that bad. Fourth pitch looks worse than it is. Lots of value for a short route - old school thrutching in places. Took us around 3.5 to 4.0 hrs to climb the route. Abseils off are in good order. The final two abseils can be run together to reach the glacier if you've the rope length. We managed as we were two ropes of two people each with 60 m ropes. Team ahead had to do the intermediate ab from a single bolt.
with Hoyes
steve_gibbs 1 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Linus, Robbie Blease
with Linus, Robbie Blease
Robbie Blease 1 Aug, 2017 AltLd Really nice, led pitch 3 and 5.
Really nice, led pitch 3 and 5.
Hidden 1 Aug, 2017 2nd
Linus Osorio 1 Aug, 2017 AltLd
bidean 1 Aug, 2017 Lead
betathief 15 Jul, 2017 AltLd Little write up of our adventure on my blog! https://betathief.wordpress.com/2017/07/16/red-rope-red-rope-red-rope-aiguille-purtscheller-d-5a/
Little write up of our adventure on my blog! https://betathief.wordpress.com/2017/07/16/red-rope-red-rope-red-rope-aiguille-purtscheller-d-5a/
Jessicacrump 15 Jul, 2017 AltLd
elewis96 13 Jul, 2017 -
Sam Hunt 13 Jul, 2017 -
Pero 24 Jun, 2017 Lead Better done in rock shoes. Did the 5c variation on first pitch.
Better done in rock shoes. Did the 5c variation on first pitch.
_hs_ ??, 2017 -
Chuck 27 Aug, 2016 AltLd Should've worn rock shoes and off route towards end
Should've worn rock shoes and off route towards end
scottywakefield 29 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S First pitch was brilliant but quite chilly. Some of the higher pitches above the main chimney were split to avoid rope drag. Abseil off the north (towards the col), not east - there are anchors down there, really. (lead top half of the route)
with Iain_L_32, Aline
First pitch was brilliant but quite chilly. Some of the higher pitches above the main chimney were split to avoid rope drag. Abseil off the north (towards the col), not east - there are anchors down there, really. (lead top half of the route)
with Iain_L_32, Aline
Iain_L_32 29 Jul, 2016 -
timmeehhhh 27 Jul, 2016 Lead Led all but one pitch.
Led all but one pitch.
RM199 23 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S About HVS 5a. Dodgy flakes on layback pitch! Can be abbed on a single 60m
About HVS 5a. Dodgy flakes on layback pitch! Can be abbed on a single 60m
guy127917 3 Sep, 2015 AltLd
Colin Scotchford 28 Jul, 2015 AltLd
joeallen28 21 Jul, 2015 AltLd Cracking route. Had an epic though and fell whilst leading chimney pitch, smashing my face open! Brilliant top out and spectacular views. Glacier dodgy in the afternoon though.
Cracking route. Had an epic though and fell whilst leading chimney pitch, smashing my face open! Brilliant top out and spectacular views. Glacier dodgy in the afternoon though.
jonesieboy 21 Jul, 2015 -
Hidden 3 Jul, 2015 2nd O/S
reima 23 Jul, 2014 -
with Niamh
with Niamh
HimTiggins 21 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Simon
with Simon
jcw ??, 2013 -
rockstoned 2 Aug, 2012 AltLd There's a handful of bolts on this route on the some of the blankest sections. Abseil stations equipped from the summit for both sides of the mountain, finding them is a little tricky. Cut my hand on first pitch, even after applying first aid I proceeded to decorate the entire route with red!
with Pierre
There's a handful of bolts on this route on the some of the blankest sections. Abseil stations equipped from the summit for both sides of the mountain, finding them is a little tricky. Cut my hand on first pitch, even after applying first aid I proceeded to decorate the entire route with red!
with Pierre
Tim Sparrow ?Aug, 2012 - Really should have taken the rock shoes - would have made it so much easier!
with Geoff Thomas
Really should have taken the rock shoes - would have made it so much easier!
with Geoff Thomas
bigbobbyking 24 Jun, 2012 AltLd Cold start! Couldn't feel my hands and used a bit of French free on the crux. Warmed up once we were in the sun and out of the wind. Only one bolt on the route which makes a nice change.
with Dan Guest
Cold start! Couldn't feel my hands and used a bit of French free on the crux. Warmed up once we were in the sun and out of the wind. Only one bolt on the route which makes a nice change.
with Dan Guest
neal 4 Aug, 1998 AltLd From tent on glacier
From tent on glacier
Laramadness 18 Jul, 1996 -
with Steve Munton
with Steve Munton
auld al ?Jul, 1995 Lead O/S
Ken lindsay ??, 1995 AltLd O/S
with With Alan
with With Alan
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