600m.

Rockfax Description
III, 700m, 7 - 8 hours. The shortest and mildest of the routes on the face, the Petit MacIntyre is a superb ice/mixed climb. Whether climbing it can really be claimed as an ascent of the Grandes Jorasses north face could be debated but the ambience and technical sections are good nevertheless.
1) Cross the bergschrund and climb the lower snow/ice field for 300m, which kicks up to 60 degrees in places, to reach the foot of the narrow gully on the right.
2) Climb two moderate mixed pitches (Scottish III) through the lower gully. Where the gully widens out, traverse up and left for 40m to reach a second gully.
3) Follow the gully for three pitches of 60 - 70 degree ice to where it widens considerably.
4) Climb the wide ice runnel above and a final 10m mixed chimney to reach the ridge crest.
Descent - Abseil back down the route. Some of the abseils are quite awkward, especially the last one. If in doubt, do short abseils and take care not to get a rope stuck. There are sometimes fixed belays but count on using Abalokov threads. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Ice slope left of the Shroud

Macintyre, Todd, Rhodes Jun/1976

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
tomitas 28 Aug, 2018 -
ndraper1 5 May, 2014 Lead dnf First taster of GJ. Long ski approach from the Leshaux hut(3hrs). Bergstrund was awkward to navigate for a moment esp for the short but perfect neve on uphill side to lunge at. Pete had lost an axe the day before so we pitched everything. Fairly run out first few pitches, belays required some digging around as not much rock pro/screws to begin with but got better as we climbed. Top quality neve and ice in the grandest of settings. Many rocks whizzing past us and down the center so sticking close to the rock band was best, but they added to the atmosphere! Climbed 6 pitches before calling it in as we wouldn't have got far with one axe on the steeper pitches and the heat was chucking all kinds down. Top day out will go back and bivi at the base.
with Pete Houghton
First taster of GJ. Long ski approach from the Leshaux hut(3hrs). Bergstrund was awkward to navigate for a moment esp for the short but perfect neve on uphill side to lunge at. Pete had lost an axe the day before so we pitched everything. Fairly run out first few pitches, belays required some digging around as not much rock pro/screws to begin with but got better as we climbed. Top quality neve and ice in the grandest of settings. Many rocks whizzing past us and down the center so sticking close to the rock band was best, but they added to the atmosphere! Climbed 6 pitches before calling it in as we wouldn't have got far with one axe on the steeper pitches and the heat was chucking all kinds down. Top day out will go back and bivi at the base.
with Pete Houghton
Pete Houghton 5 May, 2014 2nd dnf Would be easier with two axes. http://wp.me/p2jrSj-hC
Would be easier with two axes. http://wp.me/p2jrSj-hC
David Horwood 12 Sep, 2007 -
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ?Sep, 2007 Lead rapped back down on ice threads. nice route with an interesting finish up open icy/mixed grooves
with David Horwood
rapped back down on ice threads. nice route with an interesting finish up open icy/mixed grooves
with David Horwood
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