Rockfax Description
A classic Joe Brown jamming-crack. Steep, powerful and intimidating! Start by walking up the left-hand side of the crag until level with the base of the route. Traverse in along a terrace to a flat spot beneath the steep corner and crack. Leave the ledge via a boulder problem and climb the corner for a few metres until a hard move right gains the crack. Let the battle commence. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Tom Randall's Classic Hand cracks, Cracks And Corners To Greatness, WideBoyz Crack School, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Joe Browns Shops 50th Anniversary Celebration Routes List.

Adam24B 22/Jun Lead O/S

It's hard

adamre12 29/Apr Lead O/S

Savage jamming, quite a tough introduction back into trad after so long off. Not technically that difficult but so sustained. Great route.

redjerry 09/Apr Lead O/S
with Robert Duran
neilh ??/2017 -
Mike W 04/Dec/16 Lead O/S
with chris
UncleMephisto 22/Jun/16 Lead dog

Thought it looked ok from the wrong can you be! Got absolutely battered. Felt harder and more painful than Grond.

shed_hed 22/Jun/16 2nd O/S

Getting established in the crack is tricky for two moves until a good hand jam but fine after that. Not a face climb by any means but certainly not a jamming test piece - although using jams in places certainly helps I think trying to jam the whole thing would make it much harder. Plenty of footholds on the wall, so you can walk your feet up and move between the jugs without pulling hard. Far, far easier than The Grond.

robpartridge 09/May/16 Lead
with Helen
clams ?/May/16 Lead dnf

Fell from moves into niche near top - so pumped

with Jim
clams ?/May/16 2nd rpt
with Jim
wi11 22/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Bit pumpy...

with Helen Wise
Climbingspike ??/2016 -
Tim Sparrow ??/2016 -
James Oakes 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Fragmod 27/Jun/15 Lead
Tubs 27/May/15 Lead

Excellent. I love jamming but the thin-hands crux was still 5c in my opinion. A grade harder than the Grond.

with Tim C
Hidden 26/May/15 2nd dog
Alison Cairns 22/Mar/15 2nd dog

God I wish I could climb this! Hardest '5b' I've done in years and can't remember the last time I had to hang on the rope as much as this. Definitely not my style.

with anna
mike mo ??/2015 -
jcw ??/2015 -
mike mo ??/2015 -
Glyn 16/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Nice crack climbing, quite featured and not as bad as I thought it was going to be

with Amy, Trystan
Hidden 13/Sep/14 2nd
Rich Kirby 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Superb. Well worth seeking out.

with Helen
Chriswallis2 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Anna
Sardien 25/Jul/14 2nd dog

Still a bit midgy but the best day for this. Helena cruised it and I made a mess but great fun. Plenty of splendid jamming going on and once you find the right feet placements they are awesome moves

with Helena Robinson
theotherpetehill 17/Jul/14 Lead O/S


chrisallan 17/Jul/14 2nd dog
Marti999 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Debbie
Hidden 03/Mar/14 2nd O/S
James Oswald ??/2014 Lead O/S
Nick Biven ??/2014 -
Hidden ?/Sep/13 2nd dog
soph 27/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Lindy Smith
richiebongo 27/Jul/13 Lead O/S

On my birthday with my mates, great day.

with Rameau, Nick Smith
Duncan Campbell 26/Jul/13 Lead dog

Holy crap! Not a good warm-up when you feel lacking in energy to begin with. Fell low down but came back to the no hand rest in the corner, then fell once more one move from the jugs. So awkward and steep. Amazing climbing though!

The old James turnbull 25/Jul/13 2nd
with duncan
PaulTanton 06/May/13 Lead O/S

Excellent, pumpy climbing but never too hard. Could do with being about 40 meters longer

with Stuart Lancaster
Hidden 06/May/13 2nd
Hidden 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
guy757 27/May/12 AltLd
dan ely 23/Jul/11 Lead dog

3 falls

with steve
feilx 18/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Jake
jacobjlloyd 18/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Stunning climbing, over far too quickly. Was a bit wet but it didn't detract in the slightest. Safe as you like and a gift at E2... old-school jamming routes are supposed to be hard for the grade, not upgraded!

with Felix
Rob Pitt 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Helen Pitt
Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
mynyddresident 13/Oct/10 Lead dnf

Downclimbed.Very tricky. Tops off for power not a decisive advantage today. Will be back soon cos I love this stuff.

with ben
Hidden 30/Aug/10 2nd O/S
david morse 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S

classic struggle. bring plenty of big wires and determination. Joe Brown=legend

with siobhan, chris todd
Hidden 30/Aug/10 -
sam820 03/Jul/10 2nd dog

Interesting introduction to difficult jamming...

Ewan Russell 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Sam D
harold walmsley 15/May/10 Lead

Uphill but great gear

geoff b 14/Apr/10 2nd

A sustained & tricky exercise in jamming, though a cunning knee may help in places!

Hidden 14/Apr/10 Lead rpt
hervenuttall ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with matt b
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden 26/May/09 Lead O/S
climbingrev 19/Apr/09 2nd dog

Thrashed my way up this. Must have fallen at least 5 times. Great route though. Must come back for more when my hands have healed!

dan gibson 19/Apr/09 Solo O/S
Hidden 18/Apr/09 -
barni 15/Apr/09 Lead
barni 15/Apr/09 Lead
Renegade_Pony 15/Apr/09 2nd

first pitch

with barni
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
climbergg 31/May/08 2nd
Tim M 31/May/08 Lead

Fortunately was in the shade on a roasting day, or would not have got up it. Is in the shade until early afternoon on the summer.

with Emma
Marcus ??/2008 -
ritchierich 05/Nov/06 AltLd dog

Had to use Cam as point on aid in start of crack on second pitch,well pumpy climb.

shoulders 21/Jul/06 Lead
Cowflinger ?/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with John Williams
whispering nic 23/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Graham Doig
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/Jul/05 Lead O/S

Every conceivable method of jamming known to man, this climb has it all! I have never been so pumped in my life!!!

Hidden 15/Mar/03 Lead
Hidden 30/Mar/02 Lead dog
Derek Ryden 31/Jul/99 AltLd O/S
with Dave the Leg
tmawer ??/1999 Lead O/S
Ched ??/1995 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Hidden 16/May/94 2nd
Hidden 27/Apr/91 Lead
Dave Rumney 22/Jul/90 -
mike mo ??/1986 -
uphillnow ?/Oct/85 Lead

Home from home, just like being on a grit crack

with Brian barker
Mark Kemball ??/1984 AltLd
with Clare
mike mo ??/1982 -
mikej 04/Jun/80 2nd
with The Puerile Ticker
Falko 01/May/80 AltLd O/S

I have pencilled 'very strenuous' beside the guidebook description to this route.

with Chris Astill (Shilling Rabbit)
jon ?/Apr/80 Lead
with Vic
Mike Owen 17/Jun/78 Lead O/S
with Elaine Watson, Brian Jones
Mark Kemball 31/Jul/77 Lead dnf
with Paul Clark
petemeads ??/1977 Lead

Probably took 3 attempts over a period of years to get up this - really hard jamming!

Paul Clarke ??/1975 Lead
with FMC
18 users have this on their wishlist
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 23
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 19
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set