Rockfax Description
A great combination of the first pitch of a VS called Oxo and the steep and thrilling top pitch of Bovine.
1) 4b, 30m. Start 10m left of the wall that touches the crag. Climb up a few metres and traverse right to a small ledge. Continue rightwards, passing a pinnacle to reach a small flat wall, pass this and gain the ledge on the right. Good belay.
2) 4c, 28m. This is what you came for. Steep, exposed climbing on holds the size of buckets. Climb the groove above the ledge for 2m, make a hard move right to huge holds and blast-off directly up the wall. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Given 3* in the latest guide, well worth it.

Ticklists: The 100 Best UK VS routes?, North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist.

JC95Evans 19/Sep 2nd O/S
Lizard Ollie 19/Sep Lead O/S

Second pitch was really cool although I thought the crux was a bit tough for VS 4c. Make sure you ab off the holly tree at the top as it is orders of magnitude less faff than the descent

JdotP 27/Aug AltLd O/S
with Caveman, Red Ted
Colin Scotchford 26/Aug AltLd
chris smith 18/Aug Lead O/S
webby2203 25/Jul Lead O/S
with Sam Littlewood, Gaz Mitchell
Hidden 25/Jul AltLd O/S
Dynomite 22/Jun 2nd O/S
with Chris
Kris2fa 22/Jun Lead O/S
Adam24B 22/Jun 2nd rpt
Felix Ottey 27/May AltLd O/S

Cracking route! I led p1 which was fine but fiddly gear in places, Rich led p2 in great style. We abseiled off the holly tree.

Rich2002 27/May AltLd O/S
Hidden 14/May AltLd O/S
jk29 06/May 2nd
Sarah Roscoe 30/Apr AltLd

Led P1

with Milena Muhlen
milena 30/Apr AltLd
Hidden 30/Apr AltLd
adamre12 29/Apr AltLd O/S

Great Route

with Olly
Pewtle 29/Apr AltLd O/S

Led second pitch, big exposure for VS - bucket holds though

Hidden 22/Apr Lead
Rory Shaw 22/Apr -
with Jo Boyd
SJPowderham1 03/Jan AltLd O/S

lead p2. Damp first pitch, and ran out the second quite a bit

davidibex 03/Jan AltLd
Mike W 04/Dec/16 Lead O/S
with chris
How easy 18/Sep/16 AltLd

Led second pitch

with Jon g
JDG2428 18/Sep/16 AltLd
lost.arrow 11/Sep/16 AltLd
with Emma Veitch
Blanka 11/Sep/16 AltLd G/U

Lead (onsighted) first pitch Seconded (with 2 falls starts) second pitch

C May 29/Aug/16 AltLd

Pitch 2

with Rosie
Longsufferingropeholder 29/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Droyd 28/Aug/16 Lead dnf

Looked dry from the road but turned out not to be - first pitch was gopping and there were some pretty big streaks down the line of the second. Only logging to point out that the route gets pretty bad seepage so isn't a good day-after-rain option, as we figured it might be.

with Emily, Henry
trouserburp 27/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Lead p2. Race up awesome steep jug fest before the pump gets you. Many onlookers from campsite below

Gracieclimbs 25/Aug/16 2nd

Was staying on the campsite below so thought we'd give it a try. First pitch easy but fun, we both crawled along the funny ledge. Second pitch amazing altough tricky move at the bottom which I got stuck on for a while and kept falling on poor Pat, amazing when you get to the steep juggy section. Highly recommended!

with Pat Columbus-Tohill
swmackey 14/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
charlietorrance 19/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

led pitch 2 bucket jugs!!

John Bunney 19/Jul/16 AltLd
with Charlie
Hidden 25/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
mjackson 05/Jun/16 2nd
Graham Westbrook 05/Jun/16 Lead O/S
mark4344 05/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
with Matt kemp
mattkemp70 ?/Jun/16 AltLd

Great 2nd pitch

with Mark
Pete Rigby 29/May/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/May/16 AltLd O/S
kelliroberts3 29/May/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/May/16 AltLd
shed_hed 16/May/16 AltLd O/S

Led P2 - glorious steep jug pulling!

Hidden 16/May/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/May/16 AltLd O/S
David Staples 13/May/16 AltLd O/S

Led glory (2nd) pitch. Best VS pitch ever?

joedean ??/2016 -
Darron ??/2016 -
mountain musher ??/2016 AltLd
Climbingspike ??/2016 -
ads 10/Oct/15 AltLd
jalqazzaz 09/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Cool traverse with a tricky little move before you get to the belay ledge. Amazing second pitch like a steep juggy indoor wall! Partener initially lead but took a good 15m fall nearly hitting the deck! So took over and lead, fantastic climb!

static266 09/Oct/15 2nd
Hidden 30/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Pinguville 30/Sep/15 2nd O/S

great climb , p1 was easy going , tricky / awkward part on the small ledge before you get to p2 . Second pitch was awesome great exposure looks mega steep and awesome views , wasnt that pumpy and good gear ! was expecting an ordeal, infact was just fantastic !

with George
Dell 27/Sep/15 AltLd β

Lead P1 with beta, seconded P2. Some nerve required on P1 upper ledge. Small nuts and a 1.5 cam required. P2, short slings on spikes all the way with the odd nut. Easy ab off of tree at top.

Hidden 27/Sep/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 27/Sep/15 -
Hidden 30/Aug/15 2nd O/S
Mr Fuller 30/Aug/15 Lead dnf

Led P1 but then could not work out the moves above the belay on P2. Absolutely stumped we abbed off the tree below the belay.

s.thursz 19/Aug/15 AltLd
Will Mortimer 19/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
mikkistorey 01/Aug/15 AltLd

I lead the first pitch, Al lead the second, Olli was with us. Not as steep or exposed as I remember it. Al had trouble finding gear on the second pitch. DEscent down wet grass was HORRIBLE

mikkistorey 01/Aug/15 AltLd

I lead the first pitch, Al lead the second, Olli was with us. Not as steep or exposed as I remember it. Al had trouble finding gear on the second pitch. DEscent down wet grass was HORRIBLE

Hidden 01/Aug/15 AltLd
bob johnson 19/Jul/15 -

just love this climb

with Rich Ball
najki_2000 03/Jul/15 2nd β

Rucksack almost pushed me off near the top of P1 :) Great climbing on P2 though the crux move feels a bit reachy and comitting for shorties.

with Chris Rose
James Oakes 27/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
Fragmod 27/Jun/15 Lead
Neil Watson 21/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Led P1 and Aiden P2. Enjoyed the whole route but glad Aiden did P2 as it is just a tad beyond my leading capabilities

with Aidan
Stanners 19/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

P2…after Andy finally stopped trying to climb E1 on the first pitch. Not sure I've ever been so relaxed hanging around cutting loose for the banter and soaking in the position ! truly incredible route…except for the sodding midges !!!! Was a good shout coming here getting away from the dark, cloudy pass. Even went for a swim in the lake afterwards!

with Andy G
Hidden 08/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/15 AltLd
thehugehead 06/Jun/15 Lead

Such a great route. Second pitch is phenomenal. Bomber holds and great gear! Really unique route.

with Alice
Andy Clarke 21/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

Great climbing, with a thrilling swing out on P2 followed by glorious steep jug pulling. The sort of route that puts a smile on your face - about the only part of my body that wasn't knackered after 4 days taking advantage of the April heatwave! Led P2.

with Johnny
1-2-3-40 16/Apr/15 AltLd

good gear, big reach to get arête hold on second pitch

apeman241 05/Apr/15 2nd dog
with Nick Harvey
Hidden ??/2015 -
Glyn 16/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Amy, Trystan
Hidden 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14/Aug/14 AltLd rpt
fizzychewitt 14/Aug/14 AltLd
with Alun, Jayne
Hidden 04/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Chriswallis2 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Anna
tim.fairhall 22/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Matt
disrail 21/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Dave
rgd1977 02/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Helen Gibson 30/May/14 Lead

lovely big holds.

with Jacquie
Andrew Lester 27/May/14 AltLd
Hidden 25/May/14 -
Hidden 25/May/14 AltLd O/S
edmitchell 17/May/14 AltLd
with pyb course
Ann S 02/May/14 2nd

Excellent route bone dry after day of rain before. One tricky move for short arses like me near start of second pitch. Had to do a monkey swing round out of the groove onto front wall.

with Skinnykin
Marti999 19/Apr/14 AltLd

Quite possibly the best vs in wales

with Debbie
edmitchell 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Started Oxo, (easy), then went up past peg on Bovine (hard!). Final pitch of Bovine. Easy, but steep.

with Mark Ellis
Anna duckett 09/Apr/14 AltLd
with Matt H
Matt Harmon 09/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

led P1

Hidden 15/Mar/14 AltLd
Hidden 26/Feb/14 AltLd O/S
rbharries 25/Feb/14 AltLd O/S

lead 2nd pitch, cool crux

with neils EW
Andrew will wilson ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Si ??/2014 -
Nick Biven ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 Lead
with Cant remember so long ago
Harry Ellis 23/Sep/13 AltLd
Fred_Richard 22/Sep/13 -
with Pete
Hidden ?/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Aug/13 Lead
noah 03/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Slimmy
danp 26/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

2nd pitch, fantastic position.

Dan724 18/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1, brilliant route.

Hidden 09/Jun/13 AltLd
John Roe 09/Jun/13 AltLd

Led first pitch, Jocky let the crux pitch

asmith37 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S

What a stunning 2nd pitch. Tricky moves off the belay, but then easy climbing on massive jugs all the way.

Hidden 09/Jun/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 25/May/13 Lead
Ray Sparks 24/May/13 AltLd O/S
with pete ranstead
ross brinson 20/May/13 AltLd O/S
with Ben Biscoe
lithos 18/May/13 AltLd

P2, brilliant and unlikely - what a pitch

with andy kitchen
dave_forti 06/May/13 Lead

One rest on gear which I am very annoyed with myself about! Apart from that a totally awesome route and superb exposure on amazing holds. One climb every climber should do.

Steve Woollard 06/May/13 AltLd
with Andy Owen
daveyb 06/May/13 2nd O/S

Excellent climbing, tricky move onto the face then a sprint to the top on superb holds

Wyn Bach 03/May/13 2nd O/S


with Ched
Ched 03/May/13 Lead
Johnywilks 24/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
tim20 ??/2013 -
tim20 ??/2013 -
davidhopwood 02/Oct/12 2nd O/S

Top pitch merits it's 3 stars. Scary even to 2nd and hard work despite large hand holds. Difficult move right onto last section, very exposed.

with Jade
Lloyders 15/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Mint 2nd pitch...

with Paddy
Will242 07/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
with pastep
pastep 07/Sep/12 AltLd

Led pitch 2. Completely awesome!

with Will242
jon59 16/Aug/12 Lead
james.slater ?/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Amazing top pitch, wild for VS!!

Hidden 23/Jul/12 Lead O/S
stvredmond 24/Jun/12 AltLd

led p2. not sure about the strength of the spike but amaxing climbing

Hidden 24/Jun/12 AltLd
Mark Young ?/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
with Helen
Hidden 31/Mar/12 AltLd
Frank Blakeley 31/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
with Si
Hidden 31/Mar/12 AltLd
Gareth Bowen 14/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Led p1.

with Dave Whitely
ldadams ?/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
with Nigel
Hidden 01/Jan/12 AltLd
Hidden ??/2012 -
captain dringo ??/2012 -
richardr ??/2012 -
Hidden 06/Nov/11 2nd
jandyd05 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S

Superb climb in gloriously sunny autumn conditions - climbed P1 in t-shirt ! P1, quite poor gear. Also went up to the 'ramp' too early and scared myself half to death with a very teetery traverse. Julie came up the correct way and found it much easier. P2 - exciting swing right out of the groove (crux) then superb steep climbing up the wall via big flakes.

Blurgy319 05/Nov/11 Lead O/S

Brilliant!! Great weather for November, great scenery and great route

with Ginge Moore, Lee Wales
Matthew Scott-Chalmers 01/Oct/11 AltLd

Lead 1st pitch, really poor gear for a 4b managed to conceal myself to a narrow ledge/gangway which I had to gingerly crawl along with only 2 not so good placed cams protecting me from bottoming out!!! 2nd Pitch Rob lead (I'm glad) quality climbing, pumpy but good jugs! first bits got a bold swing out right with little for left foot. (leaders make sure you protect this move for your 2nd's)!!!

with Robert Evans
Hidden ?/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Sep/11 AltLd
Noodles 22/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1, second pitch is awesome, steep but great holds

with Andy Mcque
Hidden 14/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
quarrtman1 24/Aug/11 AltLd

led first pitch

with mills
Hidden 09/Aug/11 2nd O/S
AJH 05/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Loved it - only problem being an arachnaphobic daughter who launched herself off the crag rather than face up to her fears!

with Rebecca
mr mills 24/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Chris
dan ely 23/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with steve
Hidden 11/Jul/11 AltLd
stephheeley 07/Jul/11 2nd dog
martin c 30/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Great route. With Steph (trainee). Steph couldn't do crux on start of pitch 2 so had to ab down to her and lower her then ab off (left no gear). Excellent training!

Alex Mason 28/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Awesome. Led P2. Jugsy.

with Laura Perry
Hidden 28/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Lenny 05/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with Les
justin burgoyne ?/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/May/11 AltLd O/S
DOVEY 11/May/11 Lead

Supper holds!

with Loz / Maker
Hidden 28/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Moniawl 25/Apr/11 2nd dog
with rich
Rich A-Wilkes 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Cracking route!

with Monika
frost 24/Apr/11 Solo O/S


jshields 10/Apr/11 Lead
Rob Pitt 09/Apr/11 2nd
with Helen Pitt
Duncan Campbell 06/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Potentially one of the best VS pitches I have done. Absolute Jug-ladder up a steep wall, with a fun swing around out of the groove.

with Chris??, Jess
peua57 06/Mar/11 Lead

harder top pitch, very exposed and steep chimney

PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Rob Evans ??/2011 Lead
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
centurion05 ??/2011 -
centurion05 ??/2011 -
Mark Kemball 23/Oct/10 AltLd

Stayed reasonably dry in spite of heavy showers. What a superb top pitch.

with Nye Kemball, Nic Dill
Hidden 30/Aug/10 AltLd
Hidden 30/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
david morse 30/Aug/10 2nd O/S

hidden gem

with siobhan, chris todd
Conan 22/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Another great climb. Crux was the balancy alternative direct finish

with Phil
HIGHTOWER 11/Aug/10 2nd
with Lee Wales, Rusty
Hidden 11/Aug/10 Lead O/S
prwalker 20/Jun/10 2nd
with Mike Doyle
Moomin.williams 20/Jun/10 AltLd
JasonV 20/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Big lovely jugs (p2)

with Gareth
michael burrows 20/Jun/10 AltLd rpt
with mark
monsteratt 11/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd picth. What a jug fest!!

with Will K
Hidden 11/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Shaw Brown 06/Jun/10 Lead
with anne salisbury
Dizz 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S

New favourite route!

Hidden 05/Jun/10 AltLd rpt
Harri777 05/Jun/10 2nd
with Liz
Binder 05/Jun/10 AltLd

Lead 1st (easier) pitch. Hot and sunny!

with JT
Hidden ?/Jun/10 AltLd
Hidden 22/May/10 AltLd O/S
Tony Little 15/May/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 13/May/10 AltLd O/S
Andrew Lester 11/May/10 AltLd O/S
runestone 03/May/10 Lead rpt
with Nic
bob johnson 03/May/10 2nd

wow! what a great climb - how come i've not done this before

with Rich Ball
will randall ?/May/10 Lead O/S
with sarah
mikelaing ?/May/10 AltLd
with Ian Whitehead
Hidden 18/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
dashitboarder 10/Apr/10 2nd
theotherpetehill 06/Mar/10 AltLd O/S

Led P1

Liam FLeming 18/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
with Dan Jackson
Hidden 11/Aug/09 AltLd
Will Williams ?/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/09 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/09 -
Hidden 31/May/09 Lead
Ian Andrews 30/May/09 AltLd
Glyn Davidson 30/May/09 AltLd O/S

Ian first pitch, me second. Lovely climbing on second pitch.

Mike Goldthorp 19/May/09 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd pitch, felt awesome! Body belaying...

with Ben Alsford
climbingrev 19/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

Led second pitch. Great juggy, reasonably steep pitch. Fascinating rock. First couple of moves away from the belay provide a bit of interest. Great position above campsite / lake.

with Alison ?
Hidden 18/Apr/09 -
barni 15/Apr/09 Lead rpt
Renegade_Pony 15/Apr/09 2nd
with barni
peter myers ??/2009 AltLd O/S
with Ralph Heath
Ched 27/Jul/08 Lead
Hidden 27/Jul/08 2nd
csalvage 19/Jun/08 2nd
with Bryan, Will and Malcolm
John Dale 01/Jun/08 Lead
with Erik Schaberg
climbergg 31/May/08 AltLd
Tim M 31/May/08 AltLd
with Emma
stevepotter 24/May/08 AltLd
with loic
gareth scott borthwick 20/May/08 AltLd O/S

Hedd led the first pitch, i led the second. One of the best vs's i've climbed, quite stiff for the grade.

Marcus ??/2008 -
Glyn 04/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
with Trystan
Hidden 15/Jul/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
AngelaC 30/Apr/06 AltLd
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Rich A-Wilkes 11/Sep/05 AltLd O/S

I took the better second pitch and virtually soloed it, opps!

with Johnny Martin
The Pulsing Motorik of Neu! 19/Aug/05 AltLd O/S
with Rebecca
runestone 17/May/05 Lead
Wayne S ??/2005 -
Norman_P_W 15/Aug/04 AltLd
with Bob M
Bob M 15/Aug/04 AltLd
Hidden ??/2004 -
Hidden ??/2003 -
Hidden ??/2003 AltLd O/S
John Kettle ??/2003 Lead
Mark Davies PK ?/Aug/02 AltLd O/S
with Fiend
Hidden 15/Jun/02 AltLd
DavidR 01/May/01 2nd O/S
with John Marston
five ?/Aug/00 Lead O/S
with TW
lost.arrow 17/Jul/00 Lead
with Gill Heartly
Bob M 30/Apr/00 AltLd

Led top pitch - simply stunning

with Jill Stevens
MoWalker3 01/Jan/00 AltLd
marcoleptic ??/2000 Lead
with Mel
kitkat78 ??/1999 Lead
Hidden 23/Sep/98 AltLd
Hidden 01/Aug/98 AltLd O/S
cornishben ??/1998 AltLd O/S
with Andy Connor
zero six ??/1998 Lead O/S
michael burrows 09/Feb/97 AltLd
with richard parry
Julian Wedd ??/1996 Lead
Hidden 24/Jun/95 Solo
runestone 01/Jan/95 AltLd
Ched ??/1995 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Hidden 06/Nov/93 AltLd
BigHairyIan 25/Oct/93 AltLd O/S

and Debs.

with Tufty (Stewart Moffat)
kennylind ??/1992 AltLd O/S

Fantastic top pitch

Hidden 03/Jul/90 2nd
Steve Lenartowicz ??/1990 -
alan moore ??/1990 -

Lovely setting. Great route.

PaulHermes ??/1989 -
Tony Buckley ?/Apr/88 Lead
GordonHart ??/1984 Solo O/S
RichardMc 22/Oct/83 AltLd
with John Evans
andybirtwistle 03/May/80 AltLd
with Ian Kyle
Hidden ??/1980 -
mikej 28/Jun/78 Lead
with Tony Waite
Ian Jones ??/1977 Lead O/S
with Stewart whatsisname from the Chester Club.
Hidden ?/Aug/75 Lead
Martin Bennett 22/Jun/71 -
with JD
uphillnow ??/1966 Lead
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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
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High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 65
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 63
Votes cast 61
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set